I have been using the MC122 for almost 2 years without any issues. Cost is around $120.00.
Best economical PH controller?
I'm in the market for a ph controller for my 75gal tank. Ive looked at the Milwaukee, and they seem to have decent reviews, but there are multiple models and I'm not sure which would be best for my needs. I've also found a few other brands in the same price range. I'm running pressurized co2, and am just lookingfor a controller I can connect my solenoid to that will turn my co2 on and off when it needs to. I'm not the most tech savvy person either, so ease of use is imimportant also. Any suggestions on good ones or bad ones to avoid?
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When you are considering a pH controller, first be sure you really need it. As you can see, it's going to cost quite a bit of money. Yo give you an idea, I use pressurized CO2 on my 90 gal tank, and have been able to control it by just using a timer set to come on about an hour before the lights do, and go off about an hour before the lights go off. I'd only add a pH controller if I felt the pH swings during the day were too great.
The other consideration is that if your buying a pH controller, should I go all the way and get an all out aquarium controller where I can control and monitor a host of other items? This would let you do a lot of other tricks, like monitor and control your heater to keep it from cooking the fish or if the tank water temp drops. If you check them out, you'll see that while more expensive it's not that much more. Many controllers can also connect to the net, and you can set them up so you can your readings from your computer or smart phone.
All this comes down to how much money you want to spend, and where you want to go with controlling things in the future. I think the basic Milwaukee controller would work fine. Here is an example - Milwaukee Instruments Professional pH Controller: Aquarium Controllers & Monitors If you want a more advanced aquarium controller here is an example of that - ReefKeeper Lite Plus - Digital Aquatics - Bulk Reef Supply
The other consideration is that if your buying a pH controller, should I go all the way and get an all out aquarium controller where I can control and monitor a host of other items? This would let you do a lot of other tricks, like monitor and control your heater to keep it from cooking the fish or if the tank water temp drops. If you check them out, you'll see that while more expensive it's not that much more. Many controllers can also connect to the net, and you can set them up so you can your readings from your computer or smart phone.
All this comes down to how much money you want to spend, and where you want to go with controlling things in the future. I think the basic Milwaukee controller would work fine. Here is an example - Milwaukee Instruments Professional pH Controller: Aquarium Controllers & Monitors If you want a more advanced aquarium controller here is an example of that - ReefKeeper Lite Plus - Digital Aquatics - Bulk Reef Supply
I 2nd getting the Reefkeeper. It is one of the most economical controllers on the market. For under $200 you get a temp controller, pH controller, light controller, wave maker controller (connect circulation pumps to it and it turns them on and off creating random flow), and expandability for more modules including a NET module, moonlight controllers, etc. The Reef community has used them for many years. Freshwater keepers are just discovering the benefits of a full-blown controller.
For a non-techie person, I recommend the least complex items. Looking at lots of equipment tells me they all break down at some point. How long sometimes depends on how many functions they have. Think of cars? An old 55 Chevy will last forever and one of the reasons is that there will never be a problem with things like power steering, windows and doors, no AC trouble and certainly the GPS navigation will never break down.
You will find the same with any equipment that goes with our tanks. If you don't really need the extra functions, don't buy the extra breakdown potential. A hoe lasts much longer than a power tiller!
I do use the Milwaukee controllers as they do all I want and that is all. The one I use is now replaced by a newer model but the same basic but a different form with tan rather than green.
For operation, It comes with a plug that goes into the power strip and then the solenoid plugs into the back of that plug. The first plug works as a "switch" to power the solenoid. That "switch" is controlled by the probe in the water through the box on the wall. Before use and maybe every 6 months, you need to stick the probe in calibrated 7.0 test solution and turn an adjustment to get a 7.0 reading. Eventually you will need to clean or replace the probe but that depends on how dirty the tank and how much you let algae collect on the probe.
The big advantage is that you can make those small mistakes like turning the CO2 too high too quickly or "end of tank dumps" and the controller will shut it off before the fish are gassed. You can adjust the CO2 down in small (.2?) amounts daily as you give the fish time to adjust.
Both are critical for my use.
You will find the same with any equipment that goes with our tanks. If you don't really need the extra functions, don't buy the extra breakdown potential. A hoe lasts much longer than a power tiller!
I do use the Milwaukee controllers as they do all I want and that is all. The one I use is now replaced by a newer model but the same basic but a different form with tan rather than green.
For operation, It comes with a plug that goes into the power strip and then the solenoid plugs into the back of that plug. The first plug works as a "switch" to power the solenoid. That "switch" is controlled by the probe in the water through the box on the wall. Before use and maybe every 6 months, you need to stick the probe in calibrated 7.0 test solution and turn an adjustment to get a 7.0 reading. Eventually you will need to clean or replace the probe but that depends on how dirty the tank and how much you let algae collect on the probe.
The big advantage is that you can make those small mistakes like turning the CO2 too high too quickly or "end of tank dumps" and the controller will shut it off before the fish are gassed. You can adjust the CO2 down in small (.2?) amounts daily as you give the fish time to adjust.
Both are critical for my use.
So why not have what you just described along with another critical controller - a heater controller? A heater controller is probably the most important of all controllers since heaters typical fail in the "on" condition. Add to that a light controller for your lighting schedule and you've just described a ReefKeeper. I've had one for over 6 years without issue.For a non-techie person, I recommend the least complex items. Looking at lots of equipment tells me they all break down at some point. How long sometimes depends on how many functions they have. Think of cars? An old 55 Chevy will last forever and one of the reasons is that there will never be a problem with things like power steering, windows and doors, no AC trouble and certainly the GPS navigation will never break down.
You will find the same with any equipment that goes with our tanks. If you don't really need the extra functions, don't buy the extra breakdown potential. A hoe lasts much longer than a power tiller!
I do use the Milwaukee controllers as they do all I want and that is all. The one I use is now replaced by a newer model but the same basic but a different form with tan rather than green.
For operation, It comes with a plug that goes into the power strip and then the solenoid plugs into the back of that plug. The first plug works as a "switch" to power the solenoid. That "switch" is controlled by the probe in the water through the box on the wall. Before use and maybe every 6 months, you need to stick the probe in calibrated 7.0 test solution and turn an adjustment to get a 7.0 reading. Eventually you will need to clean or replace the probe but that depends on how dirty the tank and how much you let algae collect on the probe.
The big advantage is that you can make those small mistakes like turning the CO2 too high too quickly or "end of tank dumps" and the controller will shut it off before the fish are gassed. You can adjust the CO2 down in small (.2?) amounts daily as you give the fish time to adjust.
Both are critical for my use.
Because what happens when one portion fails? You get to live with a funky piece that clutters things or you get to replace a super expensive item because a ten dollar piece has failed. I find it far better to buy the simple, stand alone items that each have their purpose. When the ten dollar part fails, it only put that portion out until I spend the ten dollars to repair/replace it.So why not have what you just described along with another critical controller - a heater controller? A heater controller is probably the most important of all controllers since heaters typical fail in the "on" condition. Add to that a light controller for your lighting schedule and you've just described a ReefKeeper. I've had one for over 6 years without issue.
Added complex items mean added expense.
The controller is modular. Separate head unit, separate power unit(s), functional modules. Not sure what else you could want out of a system. Not to mention the controller also has alerts that can be set to send/sound an alarm or do some other function (like shut a port off for instance, when/if the pH gets too low) when something happens. And again, I've had mine over 6 years without a failure or issue of any kind. Anything is capable of failing. Having more functions does not make something more prone to failure. I don't know anyone that regrets buying a multi-function aquarium controller.Because what happens when one portion fails? You get to live with a funky piece that clutters things or you get to replace a super expensive item because a ten dollar piece has failed. I find it far better to buy the simple, stand alone items that each have their purpose. When the ten dollar part fails, it only put that portion out until I spend the ten dollars to repair/replace it.
Added complex items mean added expense.
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