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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The EA80 arrived yesterday and I couldn't resist the urge to pull all my 30" lights and get a few lineup shots. I also set it up and took some PAR readings.

The Razor makes the Stingray look tiny. The Razor has 54x0.5watt 6500K LEDs. Rated for 2700 Lumens. It's not as nice in fit and finish as the Stingray but you get what you pay for. The electrical cord was LONG! The Finnex ones are just barely manageable, and my older RAY2 is stupid short.

Here are the PAR Readings. I kinda have a thing for 30" fixtures. The setup was an empty Seaclear Acrylic tank, light sitting on provided feet (as it would sit on the rim of your tank) a ruler on the back to measure height, and a BioTech BT3000 PAR meter. Height measurements are accurate to 1/8" and all numbers are listed as they appeared on the screen, no additional conversions listed.

30" Beamswork Razor 6500K (EA80):
Center-----6" off center
1” - 250
4” - 84
6” - 71
8” - 54 ----- 31
14” - 31 ----- 24
16” - 27 ----- 24
18" - 24 ----- 22
20” - 21

30" Finnex Stingray:
Center------ 6” off center
2” 166 ----- 10
6” 72 ----- 37
10” 42 ----- 31
12” 35 ----- 27
14” 27 ----- 25
16” 25 ----- 22
19” 18 ----- 17

30" Finnex Ray2: (24" LED)

1” 700
2” 430
4” 250
6” 168
12” 80
14” 64
16” 53
18” 47
19” 43

30" Finnex FugeRay Planted+: (not 24/7)

1” 525
2” 400
3” 260
4” 192
6” 145
8” 112
10” 89
12” 83
14” 69
16” 58
18” 53
19” 49

30" Finnex Fugeray:

1” 468
2” 246
3” 206
4” 178
6” 116
8” 85
10” 76
12” 62
14” 50
16” 43
18” 37
19” 34


The pictures show the rest pretty well.












That's a lot of fixtures on that 36G Bowfront. ;-)
 

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Thanks.. The Razor is unexpectedly low in PAR...
Best guess is the ind. diodes are set to only output 150mA

Out of curiosity can you see the resistor number on the RayII and the ps voltage?

The 2 tight rows vs 3 spread rows makes more of a difference than I would have thought..
 

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That's great stuff...

1) I'm surprised the Razor isn't a little higher PAR.. With 54 .5w leds, that is theoretically 27w, which is more than the Planted+ consumes, and I would have expected it to be around the same range PAR wise. Perhaps they're under-driving those LEDs quite a lot (which is good news lifespan wise, but not so much brightness wise).

3) your numbers on the Planted+ vs Ray2 confirm my long-standing suspicion that for the 30" models, the Planted+ ends up being near or even slightly higher PAR, if only because the Ray2 is only a 24" fixture... Looking at your data, the Ray2 is more powerful below 12", which also makes sense. Once you start getting very close, lights far off to the side start falling out-of-angle and no longer create overlap. Beyond 12" the Planted+ ends up slightly higher. I suppose at some depth the ray2 will catch back up, as the extra red of the Planted+ will start falling off as you get deeper, but that's probably not going to be strong enough to overcome the PAR difference happen until you are much deeper than the tanks of mere mortals... (ie: I could see the Ray2 overcoming it at 48", but that's really too deep for either fixture to do much)

Bump:
Thanks.. The Razor is unexpectedly low in PAR...
Best guess is the ind. diodes are set to only output 150mA

Out of curiosity can you see the resistor number on the RayII and the ps voltage?
As a side note: Your RayII data is way above manuf. spec:
Jeff,

All in-tank measurements of Finnex fixtures should be way above manufacturer spec, at least for any tank with relatively clear water.... The MFG specs are in-air numbers, and the air-water boundary focuses the light, tank wall reflections contribute, etc, which will increase PAR.

edit: actually, they're not really *that* much higher:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=189944

30" Ray2 Grizzly_a vs Finnex data from 24" model

6” 168 vs 165
12” 80 vs 74
18” 47 vs 39


30" Fugeray Grizzly_a vs Finnex Data

6” 116 vs 115
12” 62 vs 48
18” 37 vs 30
 

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Great write up. I have the Razor and Stingray over my 30" and I confirm your results, Low light at best! But cheap!

I have another Razor coming, I got one for $28.00. I'm going to tear it open and see if I can't control it with an Arduino to turn on 6 LEDs and then all on.

But I think I'm going to have to get a Planted+ over the tank soon!
 

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Just so I'm on the same page...when you say Planted+ you mean the FugeRay Planted+ correct?
Based on the pictures, he's got a Finnex Fugeray Planted+, as in not a 24/7 or other newer fixture..

That said, he got much better PAR out of the Planted+ than I measured a while back... (53 vs 43)..

Perhaps I need to revisit that measurement...
 

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combined that is a bit of an interpretation.. Adding the PAR pushes it above "at best".. ;)
I am going by purely qualitative measurements, but my plants are really stretching and the red ones just have a tinge of red on the top near the surface.

I was getting much better plant results with my DIY.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks.. The Razor is unexpectedly low in PAR...
Best guess is the ind. diodes are set to only output 150mA

Out of curiosity can you see the resistor number on the RayII and the ps voltage?

The 2 tight rows vs 3 spread rows makes more of a difference than I would have thought..
All the resistors on the Razor board show "180"

The Ray2 is the earlier one with the PS integrated and the stupidly short power cord.
 

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All the resistors on the Razor board show "180"

The Ray2 is the earlier one with the PS integrated and the stupidly short power cord.
Thanks yea I saw the 180 (18Ohm) from the photo.
That is where this came from
Best guess is the ind. diodes are set to only output 150mA
R = (VDC – 3 x VF) / IF = (24 – 6 x 3) / 0.35 = 17.1Ω (ohms)
And, the power that the resistor has to dissipate is given by:
P = V x I = 6 x 0.35 = 2.1W (watts)
(12- 3 x 3.4)/.150 = 12 Ohms.. but I'm guessing on the V(f) snd current draw at it..
Most run in this area..which is close to .5W..


http://electronics.stackexchange.co...specced-values-and-real-values-for-led-strips

for fun on how to increase your output (and overheat) your LED strip light..
Hint: replace ps w/ one larger in voltage than you have.. ;)

note though 150mA is pretty well on the top level for .5W LED's.

https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/pdfs/spmwht5225d5waq0s0.pdf
http://www.homeled69.com/faq_17.html
 

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Thanks yea I saw the 180 (18Ohm) from the photo.
That is where this came from




(12- 3 x 3.4)/.150 = 12 Ohms.. but I'm guessing on the V(f) snd current draw at it..
Most run in this area..which is close to .5W..


http://electronics.stackexchange.co...specced-values-and-real-values-for-led-strips

for fun on how to increase your output (and overheat) your LED strip light..
Hint: replace ps w/ one larger in voltage than you have.. ;)
note though 150mA is pretty well on the top level for .5W LED's.

https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/pdfs/spmwht5225d5waq0s0.pdf
http://www.homeled69.com/faq_17.html
I've got a 15v power supply on the bench looking for a home!
 

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I've got a 15v power supply on the bench looking for a home!
If the output is OK, well there are some tweaks to lower the voltage a bit..

Using some power diodes will drop the voltage, or even some of those cheap flea bay boards.
In a small silicon diode at rated currents, the voltage drop is about 0.6 to 0.7 volts
Take 3 or 4..
You probably don't want 15V.. Anything over 14 may significantly shorten it's lifespan.

I didn't go further than 14.21v (I originally didn't want to go past 13.8v, but oh well). You can see that I cycled through the voltages at a faster rate near the higher voltages, because I was too scared to damage the LED strip. At 14v it dwarfed the luminous flux outputted by 25m of RGB led strips that were in the room, that's for sure :pSasha Dec 20 '12 at 10:37

Then again a PWM dimmer would work as well.. The diodes can take short bursts of high current.. ;)http://electronics.stackexchange.co...real-values-for-led-strips#comment98393_51778
 

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So my substrate is about 2-2 and half inches deep or so... So around 19 inches.. That would put me at a PAR of around 22-24 with the Beamswork Razor LED if I'm correct? Good enough for non demanding plants in a low-tech 55?

Your PAR will most likely be a bit higher if you have a std 55 with a 48" fixture.



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