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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been without light for a few days, new one came in. All of my bucephalandra (from the same person) are covered with BBA. I should have given them a bleach dip: I never thought it would happen to me. Only Bucephalandra are affected.

I had a huge canister filter full of biomedia, great flow, am running a dual chamber carbon reactor on my 90-P. My co2 is on a controller set to 6, on 24/7. Clean filter sock like once a week. It's a new tank with new aquasoil.

I haven't been doing any water changes because ammonia and nitrate are zero, and because my ORP is 480. I interpreted that to mean the water is pretty clean of organics.

Cleaned the filter (wasn't really dirty) double dosed excel tonight after a water change. I will continue to double dose daily I guess.

I guess the high ORP gave me a false sense of security. I have been dosing ADA micros and macros per instructions daily. I will dose half the macro amount now.

UGH. My drop checker stays yellow 24/7 and I still have it. I thought this was supposed to come from fluctuating co2?(how much for a 50 gal?) I have plenty of plant mass, flow. I could also dose peroxide daily.

It's only on the bucephalandra. Some are melting. They are right on my hardscape and not on their own rocks so I can't take them out and bleach them. I don't want my moss to die from the excel...

Why is my ORP so high if I supposedly have a tank loaded with organics? If I didn't have many organics, I shouldn't have BBA yet here I am. I only have one oto survivor in there.
 

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Why are you using a carbon reactor on a planted tank? Those are made for reef tanks. What is your tank water pH when the CO2 has been off for about 16 hours? A CO2 on pH of 6.0 could be anything between too little to too much CO2. If the pH is 7.0 with the CO2 off for 16 hours, you may have enough, but if that pH is 6.6, you don't have enough.

A drop checker gives you a rough estimate of how much CO2 is in the tank water, but only if you use 4 dKH water, which is distilled water with nothing dissolved in it except baking soda that has any effect on pH or KH. Hydrogen peroxide shouldn't be dosed daily. It is for one time use.

What lighting do you have on that tank - manufacturer, type, etc.? BBA shows up much faster with high light than with low light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm running carbon because I have never been able to get that invisible water look without it, and it increases my ORP as well as taking care of any extra ozone in the water that isn't caught by the carbon chamber on the effluent side of my ozone reactor. You don't want ozone in your water. I know "I don't need it", but I want it and like what it does.

7.1-7.2 with aeration and no co2. Controller brings it down to 6.0-6.05.

I have an ADA5 Solar 1 over the tank (90-P) and it's what I would consider an underpowered light to be 150w HQI. PAR at bottom of tank directly under light is 50-55, certainly no higher than 60. If memory serves me the tank is 18 inches tall, and the light is about a foot from the water so about 28 inches.

Drop checker has 4 dkh solution.

I spot treated everything with BBA with H202 and glut, left flow off for 30 minutes, did 50% h20 change. Water is a bit cloudy today so I guess I damaged my biofilter some. I have an overkill filter so it should recover pretty quickly. My moss could look better.. guess it didn't care for all of the chemicals.

I had ordered some amano shrimp and was going to set the controller to 6.8 and reduce by .5 or .1 daily until I am back where I am at. I have never had good luck with shrimp and co2 and was going to do things very slow this time and cross my fingers. I was going to keep double dosing glut daily until they get here then to 100% h20 change.

BBA has not turned red yet. Crossing my fingers it will soon.
 
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