Battling Algae - looking for advice, identification, etc.

2038 Views 16 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Hilde, Apr 22, 2017

Chocochip03

Discussion Starter · Feb 18, 2017

4

So I've had my 20 long set up for about... almost 4 weeks, and things are starting to get kinda unsightly.

I've got algae problems, but I'm not sure exactly what kind I'm dealing with. Having never run a higher light tank before, I think I may have dove in too deep. I'm not sure what's the best tool/method for combating it. I've looked at the algae guide, and I think I'm mostly dealing with types that come from low CO2.

Does anyone have an advice/experience they're willing to share?

To be honest, I don't want to drop a stupid load of funds on a CO2 setup...

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Nlewis

· #2 · Feb 18, 2017

Chocochip03 said:
So I've had my 20 long set up for about... almost 4 weeks, and things are starting to get kinda unsightly.

I've got algae problems, but I'm not sure exactly what kind I'm dealing with. Having never run a higher light tank before, I think I may have dove in too deep. I'm not sure what's the best tool/method for combating it. I've looked at the algae guide, and I think I'm mostly dealing with types that come from low CO2.

Does anyone have an advice/experience they're willing to share?

To be honest, I don't want to drop a stupid load of funds on a CO2 setup...

High light and no co2 = algae. Reduce the amount of light and manually remove what algae you can. It would also help if you provided all the specs of your setup along with ferts regimen and water parameters.

Chocochip03

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 18, 2017

I do dose some CO2, I just don’t have a DIY or specialty setup to keep constant CO2 all day.

Here are the specs for the tank and the most recent water parameters as of 02/17/2017 at 11:00 EST. I have a water change scheduled for tomorrow morning.

Finnnex Fugeray Planted+
— Photoperiod - 8-10hrs
2x Aqueon Quietflow 10
- one of the filters has a Phosphate-lowering sponge inserted

Dosing:
2ml of API CO2 Booster - every morning
5ml of Plant Food - every Sunday
5ml of Leaf Zone - estimate about every 4-6 days
micro-dosing Plant food during the week
Root tabs under substrate

Parameters: (as of this evening before WC)
pH: 6.8 - 7.0
Ammonia: 0ppm
Nitrites: 0ppm
Nitrates: 0ppm
KH: 2-3dKH
GH: 6dKH

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Nlewis

· #4 · Feb 18, 2017 (Edited)

Chocochip03 said:
I do dose some CO2, I just don’t have a DIY or specialty setup to keep constant CO2 all day.

Here are the specs for the tank and the most recent water parameters as of 02/17/2017 at 11:00 EST. I have a water change scheduled for tomorrow morning.

Finnnex Fugeray Planted+
— Photoperiod - 8-10hrs
2x Aqueon Quietflow 10
- one of the filters has a Phosphate-lowering sponge inserted

Dosing:
2ml of API CO2 Booster - every morning
5ml of Plant Food - every Sunday
5ml of Leaf Zone - estimate about every 4-6 days
micro-dosing Plant food during the week
Root tabs under substrate

Parameters: (as of this evening before WC)
pH: 6.8 - 7.0
Ammonia: 0ppm
Nitrites: 0ppm
Nitrates: 0ppm
KH: 2-3dKH
GH: 6dKH

Ok here we go.

- a Planted+ on a 20 long is a ton of light. You need to find the bast way for you to dim it. This can be achieved by floating plants, raising it or hacking in a cheap dimmer.

- your photo period should be set and not be 8-10 hours, do you not have your light on a timer?

- why are you lowering phosphates, plants need them? They also need nitrates, so having a reading of zero isn't good. You should invest $20 in a set of dry fertilizers that will last you for years and start a fert regiment using EI lower light.

Really with all this your main issue is your light, it's way to much for not having co2.

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Chocochip03

Discussion Starter · #5 · Feb 18, 2017

Nlewis said:
Ok here we go.

- a Planted+ on a 20 long is a ton of light. You need to find the bast way for you to dim it. This can be achieved by floating plants, raising it or hacking in a cheap dimmer.

- your photo period should be set and not be 8-10 hours, do you not have your light on a timer?

- why are you lowering phosphates, plants need them? They also need nitrates, so having a reading of zero isn't good. You should invest $20 in a set of dry fertilizers that will last you for years and start a feet regiment using EI lower light.

Really with all this your main issue is your light, it's way to much for not having co2.

Well, I am truly learning something today!

No, my lights are not on a timer because I don't own one. That's next on my 'To Buy' list, I suppose.

I was lowering phosphates because I thought it was contributing to the algae problem, but I guess it's actually making it worse. So I'll take that sponge out.

What is a "feet regiment"? I am vaguely aware of what EI is.

Okay, obviously, I have no idea what I'm doing hahaha. It seems like this whole problem can mostly be solved by getting some form of consistent CO2. Can you recommend a CO2 setup that works for a 20 long? To be honest, I've been eyeing the "Fluval Mini Pressurized 20g CO2 kit" but just haven't brought myself to buy it. Would that be enough for this tank? Or the one they sell at Petc*. I'd still get the timer because I need one. But would it still be a good idea to dim the lights?

Nlewis

· #6 · Feb 18, 2017

Chocochip03 said:
Well, I am truly learning something today!

No, my lights are not on a timer because I don't own one. That's next on my 'To Buy' list, I suppose.

I was lowering phosphates because I thought it was contributing to the algae problem, but I guess it's actually making it worse. So I'll take that sponge out.

What is a "feet regiment"? I am vaguely aware of what EI is.

Okay, obviously, I have no idea what I'm doing hahaha. It seems like this whole problem can mostly be solved by getting some form of consistent CO2. Can you recommend a CO2 setup that works for a 20 long? To be honest, I've been eyeing the "Fluval Mini Pressurized 20g CO2 kit" but just haven't brought myself to buy it. Would that be enough for this tank? Or the one they sell at Petc*. I'd still get the timer because I need one. But would it still be a good idea to dim the lights?

Sorry spell check was doing what it does, it was supposed to say fert not feet. EI is estimated index and is a method of dosing which is really the easiest way.

Don't but the Fluval kit, you'd spend more time and money replacing the cartridges than what it's worth. A co2 is an investment and IMO it's not something you want to skimp on. You could build one for around $200 or purchase an entire set up including the tank for about $330 from GLA. I don't have a lot of experience with the any of the mass purchased refs as I built my own. Another option is the Milwaukee regulator, but if you go that route plan on upgrading the needle valve.

Yes, yes, yes dim those lights.

Hilde

· #7 · Feb 18, 2017

2

Chocochip03 said:
I've looked at the algae guide, and I think I'm mostly dealing with types that come from low CO2.

To be honest, I don't want to drop a stupid load of funds on a CO2 setup..

.

This Cyanobacteria. API EM Erythromycin kills it.

This is staghorn

Algae is due to an imbalance. Low nitrates or high nitrates have caused algae in my tanks. Spectricide stump remover is 100% KNO3 (potassium nitrates). Can buy it on Amazon. Just if there are fish in there you need to increase the nitrates slowly. Any fish in the tank?

Here is calculator for ferts

Possibly have the lights on 3hrs off 3hrs on 3hrs would help.

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Willcooper

· #8 · Feb 18, 2017

Had the same setup and was always annoyed by algae until I started running co2. I researched a bunch and chose the aquatech co2 regulator mini ~$80, 24oz co2 cylinder $20, co2 tubing ~$7, check valve bubble counter combo ~$7, cheap glass/ceramic diffuser ~$10, and a co2 drop checker for quick reference ~$5. About $130 and your setup. The aquatech regulator doesn't have the highest reputation but has been great for me, no problems. And yes get a timer for your light and some dry fertilizer. I bought my ferts from greenleafaquariums but people sell them on here as well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

HannahFergusonFan

· #9 · Feb 18, 2017

*Use CO2 setup or atleast use Seachem Excel.
*Green algae is from acidic water brown is from hard water so try the water at little neutral level.
*Don't ever dose phosphate when you already have algae. Phosphate don't create algae but if you have them already it will accelerate its growth.
*use couple of algae eaters ...Amano shrimp is best for green algae, ottos are best for brown algae.
*plant some fast growing stem plants.
*if you balance Light, ferts and co2 = no algae.
* High light, high ferts low co2 = algae.

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Hilde

· #10 · Feb 18, 2017

Seachem Excel contains 1.5% Glutaraldehyde. Seachem Excel alternative Metricide 28 1 qt last me over a year. Just got a quart on Amazon for $9 w free shipping. Get Metricide 28 glut 2.5% or Metricide 14 2% glutaraldehyde Metricide or Cidex. Not cidex odt.

Formula
glut = (1.5 x container)/ cidex glut%
glut = (1.5% * 100ml)/2.5%.
500ml bottle = 300ml of 2.5%(Metricide 28) + 200ml of water

I have been building mine using a 24oz paintball tank. If I knew what I know now I would of just bought a Co2 setup from Co2Art. GLA use to sell paintball Co2 setup for $80. Perhaps you can find a used 1. Some find good buys on Craigslist from those whom tire of the hobby.

Here you can see cost of Co2 systems.

Chocochip03

Discussion Starter · #11 · Feb 18, 2017

@Nlewis: Thank you for walking me through this cluster. I'll definitely be filing away this knowledge for future reference. And try to look into a way to balance out the issues this tank has. I spoke with another member of the forum about dimming light materials, so I'll definitely apply that method to this tank as well.
@Hilde: Thank you for the identification! I'll know what they're called when I come across them again. I'll look into the KNO3. As for that kind of light schedule, a timer is most definitely in my future. I've been putting it off for too long.

Currently stocked in my tank are:
4x X-Ray tetras
5x Neon Tetras
4x Amano Shrimp
4x Assassin Snails
1x Zebra Nerite
1x Siamese Algae Eater
1x Red Cherry Shrimp (momentarily)
@Willcooper: Thank you for the CO2 recommendations. I'll probably search online and see what's available. And like you and Nlewis mentioned, invest in some dry ferts.
@HannahFergusonFan: I do notice that the Amanos like to eat the algae that's growing on the driftwood, so that's a plus. The single RCS has been nibbling on the green algae on the smaller leaves.

Thanks for the help, everyone! I'll do what I can to fix this.

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Hilde

· #12 · Feb 18, 2017

For a multi time light timer I find best deals on Amazon. Always compare cost at Amazon & Evilbay.

Can you by chance run the light strip with just 1 bulb?

The DIY systems from yeast and citric acid are cheap but have to monitored and adjusted constantly. I had no luck with either of those.

BettaBettas

· #13 · Feb 18, 2017

in my 5 gallon long I have very high lighting, but to clean up algae its a planted shrimp tank lol, I haven't seen algae in it in forever! so I do have to use some good ol' shrimp food...

And no I don't use Co2, just fertz.

puopg

· #14 · Feb 19, 2017

I would definitely recommend increasing the amount of plants you have. Others have already mentioned, lots of light with no CO2 is a huge reason for algae.

Other stuff I can add on:
1. Water change everyday, this helps remove algae spores, organic waste from decaying plants, etc.
2. Get some floaters or fast growing plants to help fight algae for you
3. Use real CO2, and please don't be cheap on regulators here. The more cheap you are, the more you'll end up spending. I spent $250 on my regulator, had it for 3 years no issues so far. Super stable to the point where all i gotta do is swap the tank out when it gets low.
4. You wanna cut some light down, check this thing out: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B73OL4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thats a light filter used in photography I think. Some one else suggested it, and I tested it with my PAR meter. PAR is cut by over 50% with just 1 layer of this stuff. Pretty awesome.

Chocochip03

Discussion Starter · #15 · Feb 19, 2017

@Hilde: Thank you for the formula. I'm not quite sure what it is, but I'll read through that thread on APC to get a better understanding. Also, I'm not sure what you meant by "run light strip with a single bulb". It's a Finnex Planted+, so I really have no intention of breaking it just to run a single light.
@BettaBettas: lol I totally agree. My 5g Shrimp tank is algae-free. Trust me, I'm tempted to ditch the fish and just keep a ton of shrimp, but at this point, I don't think even that would be enough.
@puopg: Based on my layout, I'm not... really sure where I can put more plants. I guess I can remove the sword, and put some stems there. The glosso is basically shot without CO2, so I'll replace it with S. repens. That's been growing like a weed in my other tank. I have some leftover Monte I could try... so I have a few options. Also, unfortunately, spending $200+ for CO2 - and that's just for the regulator - is not a realistic option. I completely agree that getting a good CO2 setup is imperative, but as I am currently in an apartment, I can't see that as being an essential thing at this point in time. Definitely in the future, when I'm able to get a fancy setup with all the bells and whistles, I'll do CO2 the right way.

I'll probably cut back my lighting, and swap out plant requirements. Probably going to run low-medium light plants instead. I'll deal with the algae some how.

Thank you, everyone!

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BettaBettas

· #16 · Feb 19, 2017

maybe throw a few Amano Shrimp in there... or an oto, would be a good snack

Hilde

· #17 · Apr 22, 2017

Chocochip03 said:
@Hilde I'm not sure what you meant by "run light strip with a single bulb". It's a Finnex Planted+, so I really have no intention of breaking it just to run a single light.

OH!! I googled it and see it is an LED light. I had assumed it was a T5 light fixture.

Bump:

puopg said:
I spent $250 on my regulator, had it for 3 years no issues so far.

I heard someone at my club got a hospital regulator for $75 and is extremely reliable.

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