[G0rkhe]

Hi,

I'm an algae grower (as my title reads) and im finally starting to get some algae in my tank and I think it is rapidly building up. By the looks of it, it looks like green hair algae. I has been starting to cover my dwarf sag and my driftwood and java fern on it.

I replanted everything on my tank with the new DHG I got about 3 days ago ( Saturday ). So when I planted it, it basically had no algae. But when I replanted it I also changed my lighting and added DIY CO2 + root tabs underneath. I'm getting dry macro and micro ferts in the mail in a few days time.

So, I know my balance is not right at all since GHA is building so rapidly. What do you guys suggest I do to balance it right / get rid of the algae? I was planning on reducing the photo period to 6 hours and spraying it with H2O2 very soon.

This is a relatively new tank. 1+ month in. Cycled.

Tank : 10 gallon
Lighting : 2 x 23 watt 6500k double desk lamp fixture (8-8.5 hours photo period)
DIY CO2
Root tabs

Flora
Dwarf Hair grass
Dwarf Sag
Java fern
Jungle val

Fauna:
5 Purple Harlequinn
1 zebra danio (moving him soon)

 

[Raymond S.]

I would go to 7.5 hrs...but...get rid of the 23W bulbs and use only one 13W one.
23W is high light aria when two are used. After you learn to grow plants/w the correct ferts you can put the other bulb back but in 13W also. This is actually too much but
the DIY CO2 will balance that much. After you get the dry ferts and start to use them
for about a week or two then you can start bringing up the lights by going to 8.5 or 9 hrs a day but still/w one bulb.
The DHG is going to give you a hard time till you learn more about how to grow the pants in general. It's one of those type plants.

 

[G0rkhe]

I see.

but say I keep the lights but reduce the photo period and do the ferts right and keep diy. What do you think would be disrupting the balance? The CO2?

 

[lamiskool]

I see.

but say I keep the lights but reduce the photo period and do the ferts right and keep diy. What do you think would be disrupting the balance? The CO2?

Yep CO2 usually is the main problem, especially with a diy setup

 

[G0rkhe]

so would doubling the amount of sugar-yeast solution or even doing a double diy co2 help at all? I don't mind changing the solution every week.

 

[Darkblade48]

so would doubling the amount of sugar-yeast solution or even doing a double diy co2 help at all? I don't mind changing the solution every week.

For a 10 gallon aquarium, I don't think this is necessary.

Rather than CO2 amount being the problem, more likely, it is the fact that DIY CO2 is not stable. You want to try to achieve a stable CO2 injection rate to combat algae.

I don't see what fertilizers you are dosing aside from the root tabs; most likely this is not enough for your plants given the amount of light you have.

 

[sleepswithdafishez]

I can confirm what the people above have said ,as I had the same problem as you.I kept my lights too close to the surface ,shallow tank(10g long ,10 inch high) ,DIY CO2 (single canister) and no complete ferts dosing,except some Fe + traces.

The result was the same- hair algae on Dwarf hairgrass ,and then BBA on other plants.

I removed the T8 reflector and raised the lights.Gave up on the DIY CO2 ,and started dosing Excel-by dosing the same amount daily ,this offered more stability.

The algae have started to turn white and stopped spreading,but there is yet a long way to go until they dissapear.I will also start dosing complete fertilisers (more likely the macros ,P and K ,as I have high nitrates in my tap water ,no need for NO3-that's just my case though)

I also added more fast growing plants ,like wisteria and guppy grass.

In conclusion ,more light = less stability ,especially in smaller tanks ,more accuracy is required.

I suggest you read Tom Barr's Non Co2 method ,the importance of nutrients vs light vs CO2 is very well explained.Not saying you should follow it ,but only to get a better understanding of what is going on.It has helped me a lot ,along with people on this forum.
Good Luck!

PS. http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plants/month.200701/msg00026.html

And this www.aquaticcommunity.com/aquariumforum/showthread.php?t=66863&page=1

 

[G0rkhe]

@ Darkblade, Thank you for your reply. I do not currently have any fertilizer except for root tabs. But I ordered NPK and CSM + b so they are getting here soon. I was thinking may be EI method of dosing. Would that be an ok method to go about for this setup?

I would dose excel or any other liquid carbon but I have jungle val but i know they melt if I do excel. What do you think would be a solution for me in your experience?

I have already gone wayyy over budget so I cannot get a pressurized co2. I really thought I could get a nice carpet with just diy co2. I decreased the light to just one lamp right now with one 23 watt bulb and also the photo period to 7.5 hours. Should I decrease it even further to 13 watt like raymond s said? again I'm reluctant to spend more money as I'm a college student on a budget.

How do I utilize the resources I have to, at least decently, grow the plants I've got? Please help, I'm really confused.

@sleepwithdafishez: Thank you for your input. I highly appriciate it. I will definitely look at the links you have given me and read up the non co2 method. Thanks again.

 

[Darkblade48]

Dosing with NPK and CSM+B using EI is a good method.

If you do not want to dose glutaraldehyde, then using DIY CO2 is fine, especially for an aquarium as small as yours. You should still be able to get a nice carpet. You can keep your lighting at a single 23 watt bulb (or, if you don't like the uneven lighting, you can try 2x 13 watt bulbs).