What would you call inexpensive? This is 1/2" application right? What is your controller?
Automatic Water change system valve question
I'm still trying to design an automatic water change system for my aquarium. I'm looking for an inexpensive solenoid valve for draining the aquarium water that doesn't need much head pressure to operate effectively.
I was originally planning on using a sprinkler solenoid, but have found out that there must be at least 5 PSI of head pressure for it to open.
I was originally planning on using a sprinkler solenoid, but have found out that there must be at least 5 PSI of head pressure for it to open.
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I've got a 4 zone sprinkler controller and a few 24VAC DPDT 10 amp relays. This will work fine for any 120 VAC solenoid valves.What would you call inexpensive? This is 1/2" application right? What is your controller?
What do I call inexpensive? Hopefully less than $100 each. I need a pair of them. I'd prefer 3/4" or 1" rather than 1/2", but 1/2" will do just fine.
I'm pretty sure if you put the solenoid into the return line of your cannister that you'd have 5 psi...
Have you considered going 3/8 inch BLACK poly (1/4' I.D.) from US Plastics? About $12 per 100 feet of high PSI tubing (Polyethelene).
Asco makes a nice quality 3/8 oriface solenoid for about $75 which I bought from Grainger Inc..
I use an Eheim hobby pump to speedup/ push the water around 22 feet to a drain saddle. From a tee in the outflow of an XP3. Takes about an hour to drain ~ 40 gallons. I
use mostly John Guest fittings so its real easy to plumb and doesn't leak.
You can PM me if you want some part numbers or look at the thread here: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/g.../37229-update-new-pics-totally-cool-auto.html
Asco makes a nice quality 3/8 oriface solenoid for about $75 which I bought from Grainger Inc..
I use an Eheim hobby pump to speedup/ push the water around 22 feet to a drain saddle. From a tee in the outflow of an XP3. Takes about an hour to drain ~ 40 gallons. I
use mostly John Guest fittings so its real easy to plumb and doesn't leak.
You can PM me if you want some part numbers or look at the thread here: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/g.../37229-update-new-pics-totally-cool-auto.html
OK let me know if your interested in 2way stainless 24v controlvalve. We can talk more about your control signal and see if it is compatible.
How are you planning on draining--Via canister, gravity, pump in the tank/sump.....? Several different ways to approach it....
HTH
HTH
Anyone have any suggestions on how I should approach putting in a selenoid for my auto water changer in a copper plumbed house? I've not given it much thought yet but hope to be starting to get into the plumbing shortly.
you need to cut out the copper tubing, then transition to PVC using the "rubber boot transition" fitting on both side of the cut. Simply add your PVC fittings as necessary.
Here is one... http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=23438-34146-RCC100&lpage=none
Here is one... http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=23438-34146-RCC100&lpage=none
Thanks for the info. BTW you linked to (after I told it my zip) "American Valve®
4" PVC x 4" Clay Coupling" do they make those small enough to transitions from small copper to small pvc? On second thought, perhaps it would be better to put a Y on the [cold water] faucet for the wash machine, that way it wont be so permanent (I hope to move in a couple years or so) and pretty easy to do.
4" PVC x 4" Clay Coupling" do they make those small enough to transitions from small copper to small pvc? On second thought, perhaps it would be better to put a Y on the [cold water] faucet for the wash machine, that way it wont be so permanent (I hope to move in a couple years or so) and pretty easy to do.
I took a look at Graingers website looking for what you suggest. Closest I happened to find is this its 3/8", a gas-shutoff, $61, 0psi difference. I forget exactly if the threads are different on gas equipment, would that be a NPT thread or something else?Asco makes a nice quality 3/8 oriface solenoid for about $75 which I bought from Grainger Inc..
My sprinkler timer is a pretty standard 24VAC unit that can handle about 300mA (about 8W). Please let me know more about these 24 volt control valves you speak of. With the addition of $16 relays from Grainger, each zone can be set to power a 120 volt pump/valve, or a more demanding 24 volt pump/valve.OK let me know if your interested in 2way stainless 24v controlvalve. We can talk more about your control signal and see if it is compatible.
The design I'm looking for:
My water has chloramines, so I want to setup a 30 gal. holding tank. The holding tank will get filled by 1/8" solenoid from autotopoff.com (zone 3 on the sprinkler timer). A peristaltic pump will pump in 15ml of AMMO-Lock to neutralize the chlorine and ammonia (zone 4 on the timer).
I want to gravity drain the display tank via a solenoid (zone 1 on the timer), and then gravity feed water from the holding tank into the display tank via a solenoid (zone 2 on the timer). This is where I need the solenoids that require no differential pressure.
I believe I found a fairly inexpensive valve solution, but I will not know for sure until they arrive. I will post my findings either way once I test them. Whatever system I decide on, I will provide a fully detailed drawing on my aquarium's journal which I will be starting soon.
Thanks for the info. BTW you linked to (after I told it my zip) "American Valve®
4" PVC x 4" Clay Coupling" do they make those small enough to transitions from small copper to small pvc? On second thought, perhaps it would be better to put a Y on the [cold water] faucet for the wash machine, that way it wont be so permanent (I hope to move in a couple years or so) and pretty easy to do.
I apologize...i thought it was for a copper drain...not the supply. You can use a self puncturing needle valve and saddle. the kind they use for ice makers on refrigerators. You can pick up one of these kits pretty cheap at any major hardware store.
Sorry about the confusion.
these kits usually come with supply line too...vinyl or "flexible" copper tubing. the directions are self explanatory if you have a little bit of know how. But it sounds like you do...:thumbsup:
I found a 3/8" direct-acting (i.e., no pressure needed) valve at McMaster for $38; see page 434 of their online catalog.
www.mcmaster.com; do a search for 7876K12
www.mcmaster.com; do a search for 7876K12
Thank you very much for that link. Those valves look like they'll work very well, and I like the fact they're not metal.I found a 3/8" direct-acting (i.e., no pressure needed) valve at McMaster for $38; see page 434 of their online catalog.
www.mcmaster.com; do a search for 7876K12
The valves I ended up getting are the ASCO 8030 series solenoids. I picked up one 1/2" SS (8030G66) for $28 w/shipping and one 1/2" brass (8030G16) for $35 w/shipping off eBay.
Valve info here: http://www.valve-store.com/8030.html
Ebay auctions: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120113693494
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330020180222
I've received the brass valve already, and in my initial test, it works like a champ. I'm now pretty certain that I've found my valves, but thank you all for all your help.
PDX - thanks for the heads up that might be exactly what I need for my auto water changer. Unfortunately it looks like the ASCO ones Megalops are low pressure and I'm not sure but I think standard cold water line pressure is too much for them so they wouldnt work for me.
You're welcome. I usually have better luck with McMaster than Grainger - lower prices, they ship the same day, and low shipping.
I ordered one myself and will report how well it works. Ordered a bunch of PVC tubing, barbed fittings, and clamps, too. 'prices are better than what you get from aquarium sites. In particular, if you need a check valve, look at the PVC Swing Check Valves on page 456 - good price, high max. pressure and CV factor, and low cracking pressure; ~$10 for a 3/4" in white PVC, although I paid a bit more for the clear one.
I ordered one myself and will report how well it works. Ordered a bunch of PVC tubing, barbed fittings, and clamps, too. 'prices are better than what you get from aquarium sites. In particular, if you need a check valve, look at the PVC Swing Check Valves on page 456 - good price, high max. pressure and CV factor, and low cracking pressure; ~$10 for a 3/4" in white PVC, although I paid a bit more for the clear one.
The 8030 series Asco valves will not work on city line pressure. I'm using mine for gravity drain applications. For my fill valve which is City water, I'm using one of the solenoids from autotopoff.com: http://www.autotopoff.com/products/solenoid/index.htmPDX - thanks for the heads up that might be exactly what I need for my auto water changer. Unfortunately it looks like the ASCO ones Megalops are low pressure and I'm not sure but I think standard cold water line pressure is too much for them so they wouldnt work for me.
Asco does make many different series valves which can handle higher pressures, notably the 8210 series. The nice thing about asco valves, is that they're readily available on eBay. I could not find one for less $$$ than the autotopoff valve, so that is why I went with that one.
PDX - yeah I've actually ordered lots from Mcmaster.com in the past - mostly things like 1/4" thick copper bus bars and 2" solid brass rod for my other hobbies that involve current in the tens of thousands of amps range :icon_eek: I did however just buy some pvc parts from aquacave... not sure how they compared to mcmaster but I got 1" clear swing check valves with true union both ends for $14.95. Seemed like a good deal to me.
Megalops - thanks for reminding me of the autotopoff solenoid. I'd been to them before looking for parts I just didnt recall they had em for that cheap. Its a little smaller than I was looking at but I suppose the difference is negligible, though I'm not entirely familiar with those style hook ups.
Megalops - thanks for reminding me of the autotopoff solenoid. I'd been to them before looking for parts I just didnt recall they had em for that cheap. Its a little smaller than I was looking at but I suppose the difference is negligible, though I'm not entirely familiar with those style hook ups.
FYI, the autotopoff solenoids have a CV factor of 0.28, versus 0.45 for the McMaster valve. So at a given pressure, the flow through the autotopoff valve will only be 55% of what it would be through the McMaster valve.Megalops - thanks for reminding me of the autotopoff solenoid. I'd been to them before looking for parts I just didnt recall they had em for that cheap. Its a little smaller than I was looking at but I suppose the difference is negligible, though I'm not entirely familiar with those style hook ups.
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