[Tow2topgun]

I'm planning on installing an automatic drip system and overflow drain to my tank to prevent having to do as many or any water changes.
My question is how often do chemicals such as a de-chlorinator need to be added? I'm guessing this is based on the turn-over rate (fresh water added and older tank water drained) but what's a good starting point or rule of thumb for running this type of system?

My tank is a 125-gallon freshwater planted tank with a 40 gallon breeder tank as my sump. Also I have a Modular Marine low profile 1600gph overflow with a 30 inch weir along w/ two 3/4 line loc returns.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

 

[minorhero]

Do you have chlorine or chloramine in your water? If the former, if you do it slow enough to only turn over tank volume say once or twice a week, you don't have to add any dechlorinator. If the latter, you will probably want to add it once a day. But I am just guessing on the latter.

 

[niget2002]

Can you leave a bucket of water sitting out with an air stone for a day or two before using it to fill the drip bucket? If so, the chlorine will naturally off-gas from the water.

If you can't, then I'd treat the water in the drip bucket as you fill it. It'll be easier to calculate how much you need because you know how big the drip bucket is. Then you don't have to worry about any chlorine levels in the tank because you've already removed it from the drip bucket.

 

[CoveBeach]

First question to ask is how much space do you have for the drum you will need, and how do you plan on controlling the flow rate into the tank? Another thing to consider is this water will also be topoff water to counteract evaporation. So you will need to figure out the evap rate and then add to that the percentage of tank volume you want to swap out per 24 hrs. Next you will need to decide on how to meter and supply the water to the tank. Depending on space and location this could be tricky. Then there is chlorine removal, you could use a dosing pump to add dechlor to the drum. Also keep in mind you will need to add and remove water from the sump not the display. I thought about going this route with my 245 but decided on another path that keeps me slightly more in touch with the tank and forces better husbandry in the long run. I would be happy to share my setup if you are interested.

 

[duanes]

I usually add new water (drip or standard water changes) to the sump first, as opposed to the main tank.
In this way the tank level remains the same (with the overflow level chosen), and evaporation is dealt with in the sump.
In this way, any excess chlorine (even chloramine) is neutralized by the plethora of organic material in the sump.
And because Chloramine is composed (depending on the water provider) of a combination of 4 parts chlorine to 1 part ammonia, the chlorine is neutralized by the organic material in the sump, and ammonia is consumed by the beneficial bacteria, before entering the main tank.
I also usually use check type float valve on the drip ( or other entry water) in case the overflow gets plugged.

There are many types available, but
Above is the type I use, made for filling cattle water troughs.
The red part, is a float that rises with water pressure and prevents too much water from entering the sump.
You can see water entering a kiddy pool on the right, I over wintered koi in.
An added bonus ( for me) if the sump became too full, is the pressure would create water hammer ( a distinct sound), as an early warning alert that the sump was becoming too full.
They work much the same as a float that stops a toilet tank from over filling after a flush.

 

[Tow2topgun]

To answer a few of yalls questions. My set up is a 125-gallon tank with a 40 breeder as my sump. I plan to add fresh water into the sump via a drip emitter commonly used in landscaping irrigation into the first section and running into my fleece roller or at least into this same section.
Then in the last / return pump section of the sump there will be a 1/2" bulk head and 1/2" plumbing set to a desired level where once the water level reaches that level, it will automatically enter this drain pipe and evacuate the sysytem.

My planned turnover rate of water is going to be at least once per week but maybe as much as twice per week. This will be played with too find the best balance.

Some have asked about barrels or buckets sitting around but I will not have this in the set up at all. This set up is in my living room and there's no way to hide anything like this nor what I'm trying to accomplish.

Additionally, my tank is not yet set up. I'm still in the process of building/ finishing my stand and canopy.
This should be completed by Sunday.
I currently have most all of my equipment such as the tank itself that I drilled yesterday and painted (back panel), sump w/ baffles installed, media (ceramic rings & activated carbon in mesh bags, graduated foam of 3 different micron levels, ceramic biofilter bars, & Seachem Matrix), Modular Marine overflow 1600gph w/30" weir & 1" drains to the sump, two 3/4" Loc-Line returns, lids, temporary lights, heaters w/ Inkbird controller, air pumps (to circulate k1 media in sump).
I'm still waiting for my Sicce Syncra SDC 7.0 (rated 1900 gph), ChemiPure Blue, master test kit, Seachem Prime & Stability.
Then in the near future I plan to add a Klir DI-7 fleece roller.

I have all of my substrate and it consist of the following: 80 lb of black CaribSea Eco Complete, 100 lb of Black Diamond sand, & 20 lb of black (medium to fine) aquatic gravel to be mixed in with the sand which will be the top layer/cap. More than likely, I will not be using all 100lb of the sand. I would like to terrace the substrate so that it is higher in the rear section of the tank but not like a slope or a ramp. Rather a true terrace so that the plants will stand taller in the rear vs the middle and front sections. I will also be adding drift wood and possibly a few larger rocks in the landscaping.

Currently, I do not know my municipal water composition as far as how much chlorine or chloramine. I'm waiting for Amazon to deliver my master testing kit in order to gather that info.

After reading some more before this post, I'm guessing that a dosing pump would be my best option to keep products such as Seachem's Prime and /or Stability added to the sump regularly to treat the constant flow from the automatic drip system. I will first need to figure out just how much my turnover is and then use that to calculate how much I need to dose in order up keep the water chlorine, chloramine , and any other harmful chemicals orb heavy metals out of the tank water. Based on how much media that I will be packing into my sump along with the large amount of substrate, I'm thinking that ammonia should be able to be easily controlled and consumed by the beneficial bacteria that will be readily available.

Sorry for such a long post but wanted to provide as much info as possible to hopefully gather some good and helpful intel from yall that know way more than me about all of this.

I had a 75-gallon cichlid tank for nearly 10 years but got rid of it close to 8-10 years ago now. I had no idea at just how much I've forgotten about the hobby. When I purchased this 125-gallon tank I figured I would just add water, some landscaping, and then fish and be all set. THEN I began reading and a lot of chemical maintenance and the like came back to mind but I honestly just don't now know enough to be comfortable with adding fish until I study more and gather more info from forums such as this one. Having had cichlids, I obviously didn't have a planted tank previously. However, after looking at pictures online, I absolutely love the looks of planted tanks. So that too is all new for me and more to learn.

I do greatly appreciate any helpful and friendly advice that y'all provide me with. I will definitely add pics in the future to show off what yall have assisted me with.

Thank you and hope everyone had a terrific weekend!
Jason

 

[minorhero]

The API master test kit will not tell you if you have chlorine or chloramine. You will want to Google your town or city or county water report. And/or google your local area to figure out. If you have chlorine or chloramine it will be reported somewhere regarding your water utility. This assumes you have city water. If you are on well water, you can skip this whole process because you don't have chlorine or chloramine and you can also skip adding prime or other water conditioner.

I am frankly not sure if seachem stability actually does anything. Personally I would not spend money on it, but it also is unlikely to harm anything. So /shrug

 

[somewhatshocked]

I would still probably use Prime with well water in order to help detoxify potential metals that are commonly present. Unless one is totally sure of their water makeup.

I am frankly not sure if seachem stability actually does anything. Personally I would not spend money on it, but it also is unlikely to harm anything. So /shrug

It allegedly contains nitrifying bacterial cultures and ingredients that benefit them. Specifically, Seachem says, "a synergistic blend of aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative bacteria." But I've never seen it boost any bacterial growth in any tank but I have seen it cause problems with some members' tanks on occasion. Depending upon circumstances and viability of the product, it has the ability to rapidly deplete oxygen levels in a tank and often causes bacterial blooms in newcomers' tanks.

For the most part, it isn't stored or shipped in temperature-regulated conditions that allow most of the bacteria to remain alive and healthy. So it's always seemed to me to be a real waste of a gamble.

 

[duanes]

If you are on City water, most "large cities" are required to submit a yearly EPA Drinking Water Quality Report, determined by population.
It will contain everything you need to know, and it is available on-line, by googling your city, and the title above, EPA.....
Sometimes what you need to know is in the paperwork of your water bill
Chlorine, is often referred to as "free chlorine".
Chloramine is also referred to as "Total Chlorine".
If you live in a small town, you can easily get swimming pool test strips at hardware stores, or pool supply outlets.
The kind of strip below gives other pertinent info about your water, including pH, alkalinity and nitrate.
The one in the shot below, was from Home Depot

There are others dedicated just to Chlorines.