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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It has been more than a few years, since I have messed with planted tanks. Long ways back, I had a 55g planted. I stumbled into saltwater tanks and the addiction took off from there. I currently have my saltwater tank on cruise control, letting all the coral grow. Time to start a 14 gallon planted!

This is my 120 rimless reef aquarium.


And this is the start of my 14 gallon planted.
 

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Beautiful saltwater tank! I'd eventually like to have one, myself. They're really neat.

Excited to see what you do with the 14gal, will be visiting this often.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tanks fresh out of storage, It just needs a good cleaning lol.

trying to decide on the fluval planted led2.0 or the Current Satellite LED+ . Substrate, I will be using black Fluorite.
 

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What support is actually under the edges of the tank? Primary need is each four corners
actually having solid ground to bottom of tank support unless top is unusually thick wood.
Suggest actual ply wood of minimum 3/4 thickness as whole top.
Particle board not acceptable for this without support directly under each corner.
Since there is no water could you turn it around for a picture or is the back covered?
Aprx 14" height? That particular height is borderline on PAR between low and med/w the satallite+ fixture. So good to go on most any plant on the low light list at the beginning thread on the low tech forum section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Raymond, appreciate the concern but the cabinet is built like a tank. It was made for a 40 tall. I have 2x4's going from left to right. I understand your worried about the tank adding stress around halfway to midpoint but its more than sturdy. If the satellite+ is not going to be able to let me grow high light plants I will be skipping it. I like to have overkill and dial it down over not enough and having to re buy later.The tank is drilled with a small overflow, I plan on adding a 20 gallon long sump to add extra fluorite and hold all the equipment out of sight. If you still want pics of the frame, I can do that for you =)
 

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Due to lack of blue bulbs the Planted+(Finnex) is a tad color lacking but lots of people say they love it and it's good for high light plants in a tank that height.
If cost is not an extremely important feature I believe the 24" BML "Dutch" cost $179.
I'd say IMO that is the best off the shelf fixture(as opposed to custom made) that you
could get. I'd be sure to get the dimmer/w it. You could just get one from Amazon or the Flea bay but also you would need an extension cord to put in in so close to the same price as theirs. Putting it in an extension cord will not void the warranty as it would if you put it in their cord.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info gents. I wasn't hugely impressed with the finnex fixture. I have 3 radion fixtures on my saltwater tank that I paid 750$ each. Are the radions worth this? No, but they are very feature rich and work flawlessly. I do not want to spend anywhere near that on this hobby but I'm not impressed with any of the fresh water fixtures. Where the saltwater market is at I just thought freshwater leds would be further along. I need to go research the BML, first I'm hearing of this event after reading around the lighting thread.
Also need to mention the tank is 24" left to right. I need a fixture around that length

Note4
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Looked into BML, love the iwagumi, but I dont like how its only 2 led spectrum's. Since I have an Apex, I would love to get the MC dutch but Im not a huge fan of the color. Its a little more yellow than I like. I need to find what colors are on the 3 dim able channels. Maybe I can dial the yellow/red leds back a little and get that crisp clean 7k im looking for?


Iwagumi 7000k xb series- LED Selections per 12" Board: (13) 6500K Cool White, (2) 525nm Green

FISH FOCUS BLUE 13000K - XB SERIES - LED Selections per 12" Board: (10) 5700K Cool White, (2) 470nm Blue, (1) 450nm Royal Blue, (1) 525nm Green, (1) 660nm Deep Red

MC SERIES - DUTCH PLANTED TANK 6300K- LED Selections per 12" Board: (8) 6500K Cool White, (2) 625nm Red, (1) 470nm Blue, (1) 505nm Cyan, (1) 525nm Green, (1) 615nm Orange/Red, (1) 660nm Deep Red
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Had to go to the camp most of the weekend, but I got most of the plumbing done, late last night. Waiting to paint it. Friday I hit the buy button on the fluval 2.0 led. Guess we will see how it goes. I understand there are issues with the touch button, but I'm, hoping the fix comes out for it soon.

While measuring and cutting, little zeb was passed out.


Note4
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
More Progress. If I am making any mistakes, please chime in. Getting a canister filter ready to add to the system.
Added: Few plants, fish, Cycle bacteria, Fluval planted 2.0, black Fluorite, Air pump with air stone. I'm curious if I need the air stone? I plan to dose co2 in the near future but I do not have pressurized co2 atm.


 

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The DHG will take off/loose less much better if the individual plants are planted.
Two or three in a bunch is the same. Very tedious to be sure, but worth it IMO.
After-the-facts so amounts to curiosity only, but did you check out the bulbs listed for the 10,000K planted tank model of the BML fixtures?
Reasonable stocking levels will cancel any need for air stone other than current provider.
But hardly needed in that set up.
Might come in handy if injected is applied, to be use at night to help the fish have more Oxygen
when the plants aren't producing any. But water movement thorough the sump should
provide enough.
I find that 45 PAR is minimum PAR for DHG without CO2. But I have a "native/collected" version...so may not apply. As the Fluorite gets silt between it's grains the DHG will do better. I believe that I helped mine by using tweezers to place individual beads of Osmocote+ under the DHG when I first planted it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Raymond, thanks for the tip. Ill setup the o2 to come on at night. Going to look for some stainless tweezers and break the DHG down into small bunches. Going to use it as mid ground, as I want DBT as my main carpet plant. I should be good with par for the DHG without co2? If I had to guess, a month at the most I should have pressurized co2. Just need a regulator. I like the fluval led however, I would have rather paid a little more with being able to dim multiple channels. Even a dimmer to be able to dim the colored channel separate from the white would have been nice. May look into the current led dimmer to add to it. I would like to see sunrise/sunset.

Fluval 2.0
DEPTh PAR LUX
3"-----453---28300
6"-----252---15260
12"---107---6330
18"---57----3330
 

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This is red and Native/collected DHG in 45+ PAR/w Excel and good ferts only.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/images/pGallery/pg_12314e.jpg
Well my eyeballing guestimate of 13.75" for height minus the sub, plus the leg brackets for the fixture gives me around 94-97 PAR in there by those PAR numbers you listed.
Given a factory(theirs) dimmer/w a minimum actual bottom level of 10%...without the
CO2...would be safe against algae and plant friendly during initial root mostly first couple of weeks in tank of dimmer set on 40 or 4 whatever it uses. I know that sound rediculesly low to you so 60 might be safe till algae shows up.
Unfortunately that dawn/dusk thing doesn't work for me as I simply like to view my tank in full light plus I work nights so would only get to see it in low light form.
But I refrain from suggesting any less than 7 hrs, yet do suggest it be broken into two sets of 3.5 hrs each A.M. and P.M. with a minimum of 4 hrs in that no light middle part.
And that obviously won't work/w a ramp timer for dawn/dusk light level...so...
But after the first three to four weeks the level can go up some once all of the plants have one or more new leaves on them.
The red on those stems was green till they got fairly close to the surface and some plants need more(most plant) than 45 PAR to get any red anyway, but you have more than enough for the DHG without the CO2. Just expect more of it to die off til it establishes than might if CO2 were involved. This native stuff I found had 5-8 leaves attached to each root group average count BTW so I don't know if you have many or not so many plants of it.
BTW: The Atchafalaya Basin has "Swamp Darters" in perimeter backwater arias.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sorry for the late updates guys!! Life is so busy, I finally got the chance to do nothing yesterday, and it was refreshing!
Raymond: Thanks for your responses, I have read over your responses a few times. its appreciated.

I may be going through some issues. Pics from yesterday.
Added Co2 to my canister filter. This is going into the canister.










My ferts order just came in.
Tom Barr general water hardness
Ferrous Gluconate
Csm+b
Macro/Micro


Params that I know of:
Ph around 6.8
hardness at 4
dosing co2 (been around 5 days)
Lighting: I was at 11hrs a day and after noticing the algae issues, I backed the fluval2.0 back down to 6hrs a day. The led light is at 100%

Going through some algae issues. May need some advice from you guys on the pics above. Im dosing co2 pretty heavily. Want to say 1 bps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Purchased a few nerite snails, and did a large partial last night. I also swapped the 20L sump for a 29 gallon.
 

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That sounds relatively odd. Bigger sump than the tank. With the 20L and sumps not
being use full that could have been less or equal. But now you should have much more stable water parameters. Pictures of the whole tank helps other people get a better idea
of how it's going in there. The brown algae should only last a couple/few weeks and it's normal in newer tanks. I still think that light is too high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Somehow I missed the part where you originally spoke about the light. I turned it down to 50% as of yesterday. I originally had a 20 long, but with the dollar per gallon sale I noticed they actually had a 29 gallon in stock. Same dimensions just higher. Just as you stated, I wanted more water as a whole. Also would like to breed and keep shrimp at the bottom section. Since I have a canister filter, Im really using the tank as a second tank plumed into the first tank. Ill try and get some updated pics as a whole for you guys!




Here is a live feed of the tank 12-5pm usually.
Twitch
 
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