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I'm having trouble wrapping my head around this one. I have an Aquatop CF500UV canister filter on order, upgrading from my SunSun HW302... I've read that the hose size for this CF500 is .75"ID / 1"OD (although I'm not 100% certain of this)... I want to add an inline diffuser however the largest I can find is 16/22mm... Is this the size I need or something else?

Please help!!!

Thanks
 

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Been there. It is doable but I had to put smaller tubing over the diffuser barbs and then slip the filter tubing over all that. I then used clamps to snug it all down because the nuts that came with the diffuser probably won't work because of the extra bulk of tubing. You can also go to the hardware store and get adapters to take your tubing down to the size you need. You will need two adapter barbs and about a foot of 16mm ID tubing(cut in half), and two hose clamps to make this work. In the end, I didn't like all the micro bubbles in my tank so I built a Cerges Reactor and took the diffuser off. Happy with the Cerges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Been there. It is doable but I had to put smaller tubing over the diffuser barbs and then slip the filter tubing over all that. I then used clamps to snug it all down because the nuts that came with the diffuser probably won't work because of the extra bulk of tubing. You can also go to the hardware store and get adapters to take your tubing down to the size you need. You will need two adapter barbs and about a foot of 16mm ID tubing(cut in half), and two hose clamps to make this work. In the end, I didn't like all the micro bubbles in my tank so I built a Cerges Reactor and took the diffuser off. Happy with the Cerges.
Interesting, I currently use a ceramic disc diffuser inside the tank and get all the bubbles. I was lead to believe the inline diffuser would allow for more contact time with the water and therefore no bubbles... Maybe I need to rethink this. How difficult was the reactor to build?

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A couple things to keep in mind?
Adding anything inline that requires a barb fitting that goes inside the tube will almost automatically reduce the opening and cut the flow to some extent. Unavoidable but something to know first.
On the bubble part, I fully agree that the inline commercial versions are less than I want. As I see it, the problem is one of simple time. The tiny little space given to the diffuser will not let the CO2 stay there long enough to move into the water if one is pushing very much CO2.
The reactor I favor is the Grigg's style as I find it more adaptable to meet the different size tanks I use. I never see any problem with building too large (other than price and space?) but too small will let bubbles flow through and into the tank.
Not hard to build if you can cut and glue PVC pipe. I keep it simple and let the size make them work. Basic idea is to push the CO2 into the top of a pipe, push the water down so that the large bubbles float up against the flow until they get small and pass out the bottom. Too small to see at that point!

Some pictures of my build that I now use as standard design.
Top showing fittings and adapters for water coming in from filter. Also note CO2 tubing drawn through undersized hole to make a good seal.


Bottom where water returns to tank.


Keep it simple and avoid the urge to mod the design and add bells and whistles which may not work?
 

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Interesting, I currently use a ceramic disc diffuser inside the tank and get all the bubbles. I was lead to believe the inline diffuser would allow for more contact time with the water and therefore no bubbles... Maybe I need to rethink this. How difficult was the reactor to build?

Thanks
I built with this parts list on this thread:http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/110100-cerges-reactor-diy-inline-co2-reactor-56.html

For me, it went together quite easy. It cost about $40 total, if I remember correctly. With an inline diffuser, many folks get a carbonated water look in the tank, the 7 UP Effect. You do get more contact time because a bajillion bubbles are constantly being pushed into the tank. They are tiny bubbles, but they really love each other for company. They swirl round and round. A lot dissolve totally before reaching the surface.
 

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My general feeling is that both the Cerge's or Grigg's are better than most ready made. The main difference seems to be the Cerge's is built on a house filter body costing a bit more but it also produces a shorter, wider reactor rather than a tall one which may give people trouble if they want to stick it under a shorter stand.
My main thing when getting into new equipment is looking at how it may be flexible enough to use as my tanks change and evolve. I like the Grigg's style because I can use almost the same parts but can vary the length and diameter of the pipe to better fit each size tank. I have built them for 125 using 2" pipe that wound up 21" total length and also down as small as 6 inches of 3/4 PVC for small tanks. It makes it easy to build to the tank size without needing much thought about it other than how wide and how long?
Both Cerge's/Grigg's options seem to work very well but I often read about folks who have gone a few steps to mod the designs and some ideas work while other ideas do not.
 
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