[shaonrahman]

I am using Premium AQUATEK CO2 Regulator with Integrated Solenoid. I am having some issue with it.
When I get me a brand new cylinder, this works perfectly. It lets out gas, and when the timer shuts it off, no gas comes out. Working exactly as expected.
But, right around 2 weeks or so, I notice that the gauge that shows working pressure, it starts to drift. It behaves like its alive, going up and down. I lift it up, its heavy. I detached the regulator from the cylinder, open and I hear hissing sound, which tells me I still have gas in it.
Then I turn it off by removing the plug from power outlet and I still see bubbles in my bubble counter. The only way I can turn off my gas is by turning needle valve completely.
Basically, after two weeks or so, I can not use timer anymore. Which is a huge problem.
I communicated with AQUATEK and they told me to clean it. They told me to open it up and use some kind of blower to make sure no dust is in there.
I have never done this before. I looked up some videos but not seeing on how to do it.
So anyone got any idea? Tips?

 

[jeffkrol]

I am using Premium AQUATEK CO2 Regulator with Integrated Solenoid. I am having some issue with it.
When I get me a brand new cylinder, this works perfectly. It lets out gas, and when the timer shuts it off, no gas comes out. Working exactly as expected.
But, right around 2 weeks or so, I notice that the gauge that shows working pressure, it starts to drift. It behaves like its alive, going up and down. I lift it up, its heavy. I detached the regulator from the cylinder, open and I hear hissing sound, which tells me I still have gas in it.
Then I turn it off by removing the plug from power outlet and I still see bubbles in my bubble counter. The only way I can turn off my gas is by turning needle valve completely.
Basically, after two weeks or so, I can not use timer anymore. Which is a huge problem.
I communicated with AQUATEK and they told me to clean it. They told me to open it up and use some kind of blower to make sure no dust is in there.
I have never done this before. I looked up some videos but not seeing on how to do it.
So anyone got any idea? Tips?

You may have misunderstood them.
"Open it up" may mean set outlet pressure to maximum.
Normally one tries to move dirt off the regulator seat. Remove any restricting outputs and vent gas through it at the max. outlet pressure allowed.

 

[shaonrahman]

You may have misunderstood them.
"Open it up" may mean set outlet pressure to maximum.
Normally one tries to move dirt off the regulator seat. Remove any restricting outputs and vent gas through it at the max. outlet pressure allowed.

Thank you Jeff. Let me show you their response and you can tell me. Not arguing or anything like that, just trying to understand if you still recommend me your suggestion.
Here is their response.
"Occasionally, there are dirt particles inside the CO2 tank, via the connector or the air tube that may get stuck inside the solenoid, which can affect its proper functioning. To reverse this issue, simply cleanse the inner cavity of the solenoid by unscrewing the four screws and flush out dirt particles with an air canister. Post cleaning, enclose the solenoid by tightening the original screws. Before attaching the solenoid to your CO2 tank, you must first plug the regulator into a power outlet for 3 seconds and unplug. You should hear a “click” sound when the solenoid is plugged in.

 

[Bettatail]

The output pressure drift is the problem, and it is probably higher than the solenoid pressure rating.
You need to open the regulator to check inside.

 

[jeffkrol]

You may have misunderstood them.
"Open it up" may mean set outlet pressure to maximum.
Normally one tries to move dirt off the regulator seat is to remove any restricting outputs and vent gas through it at the max. outlet pressure allowed.

You may have misunderstood them.
"Open it up" may mean set outlet pressure to maximum.
Normally one tries to move dirt off the regulator seat. Remove any restricting outputs and vent gas through it at the max. outlet pressure allowed.

Your problem is

Thank you Jeff. Let me show you their response and you can tell me. Not arguing or anything like that, just trying to understand if you still recommend me your suggestion.
Here is their response.
"Occasionally, there are dirt particles inside the CO2 tank, via the connector or the air tube that may get stuck inside the solenoid, which can affect its proper functioning. To reverse this issue, simply cleanse the inner cavity of the solenoid by unscrewing the four screws and flush out dirt particles with an air canister. Post cleaning, enclose the solenoid by tightening the original screws. Before attaching the solenoid to your CO2 tank, you must first plug the regulator into a power outlet for 3 seconds and unplug. You should hear a “click” sound when the solenoid is plugged in.

Most likely not the solenoid.

The regulator itself has one function to regulate the flow of gas.
If you are getting largish fluctuations at the outlet gauge it is not doing the one thing it was made for regardless of the solenoid operation.

Now the constant bubbling is another issue.
That could be the solenoid .

2 separate problems from some internal contamination is possible.

ALL THAT SAID I looked up your reg ( note to self, do this first next time)
and it's err weird.....

Try following their instructions.
Why the needs to cycle the solenoid (assume to insure a closed position) is odd as well

Sorry most of my post was for a normal setup.

 

[jeffkrol]

The output pressure drift is the problem, and it is probably higher than the solenoid pressure rating.
You need to open the regulator to check inside.

It's got a weird internal solenoid

 

[Bettatail]

I don't call it is internal, It is just a mounted type solenoid and the mounting area of the regulator is a single valve/manifold base.

 

[jeffkrol]

I don't call it is internal, It is just a mounted type solenoid and the mounting area of the regulator is a single valve/manifold base.

Splitting hairs.. "manifold" and sealing seat is part of the regulator body
Plunger and coil are external.
So a hybrid
A damaged sealing surface inside the reg would be an issue along with a clogged passage from the " manifold" to the metering valve though I'd assume it's relatively large.
One could argue 3/4 of the solenoids "function" is part of the regulator.

Still have the issue of the fluctuating pressure and possible diaphram/seat issue. For the o/ p best to try their recommendation first.
Especially if under warranty.

 

[shaonrahman]

So, going back to my question, is there a video on how to do open it back up and test/clean? I see there are some videos about it, but those are for brewery regulators. I am surprised aquarists didnt make such video. There are tons about how to hook them up though.

 

[jeffkrol]

So, going back to my question, is there a video on how to do open it back up and test/clean? I see there are some videos about it, but those are for brewery regulators. I am surprised aquarists didnt make such video. There are tons about how to hook them up though.

Keep in mind different brands can be slightly different

 

[shaonrahman]

Keep in mind different brands can be slightly different

Thank you Jeff. I saw the first one, that was I was most excited about, that is until, I read the comment. It read that the way the man fixed it, was a very bad idea. But the third one is new. So I will check it out.