The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
I struggle with the colors too. Possibly in between. Maybe try shaking the solutions before using them to see if it increases the color accuracy. Also... what are your nitrite and nitrate readings like? If you got a spike of nitrite and nitrate then you are well on your way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I struggle with the colors too. Possibly in between. Maybe try shaking the solutions before using them to see if it increases the color accuracy. Also... what are your nitrite and nitrate readings like? If you got a spike of nitrite and nitrate then you are well on your way.
Yeah I did shake them. Nitrite is 0, nitrate is 5.0. Is that good?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
depends... did you have any detectable nitrite at any point? how long has the tank been cycling?
I’m not sure…I don’t know if my tank has cycled yet or if I need to start cycling it. When I first got the tank I knew nothing about cycling and so I had a few fish and some shrimp which died in there, so I gave up for a while and just let the tank run for about four months and now I’m trying to figure out what I need to do to it. Would it have cycled from the fish and stuff I had in it before or do I just need to start the cycling process over?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
so you have had the tank running empty for 4 months with no fish or plants? Have you been adding in anything as an ammonia source ( straight ammonia, fish flakes, or decaying plant matter) at all or are you just getting back to look at the tank and decided to test the water?

If you had no source of ammonia during 4 months I am not sure you would have any of the different types of bacteria that process the ammonia or nitrite but you never know. You will likely need to start putting something in and testing daily to see what happens... you should get a reading of ammonia then a short time later you should start seeing the nitrite and a decline in ammonia. You will then need to watch for the decline of the nitrite which will signal the cycle nearing its end.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’ve had it running with plants but no fish. One of my plants has had some decaying leaves for a long time, I don’t know if that would add ammonia? But I haven’t been intentionally adding ammonia, I just decided to check it in the last week and levels have been the same. So if I try the fish food method and it converts to nitrates does that mean it’s cycled or should I just buy ammonia?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
I’ve had it running with plants but no fish. One of my plants has had some decaying leaves for a long time, I don’t know if that would add ammonia? But I haven’t been intentionally adding ammonia, I just decided to check it in the last week and levels have been the same. So if I try the fish food method and it converts to nitrates does that mean it’s cycled or should I just buy ammonia?
Just buy ammonia. Dose 2-3ppm, and let it run.

A fully cycled filter/tank should be able to process that from ammonia to nitrate in 24hrs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,214 Posts
If you use pure ammonia go to the bottom of this link. Calculator There is a calculator that makes things easier......
 
  • Like
Reactions: Camden17

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
This is the advice from API:

We would recommend to having a white background. The color is best interpreted when it is not touching the surface but holding away. We hope this helps! There is no set amount of space. As long as it is not touching the surface.

Thank you for contacting API Technical Services.

The most important part of reading the result of the colorimetric tests is to match the hue of the test tube liquid to the most similar hue on the color chart, while avoiding shadowing of the test tube that could artificially cause the results to look darker.

Sometimes this shadowing can be avoided by using a good light source, that shines through the tube and onto the color chart directly.
In suboptimal lighting, the shadowing can also be avoided by pulling the test tube slightly away from the color chart, causing a gap that can minimize shadowing (or at least shift it to the side). There is not specific amount of space that removes the shadow – start at about a quarter inch and adjust as necessary.

As long as you are able to avoid reading the shadowed part of the test tube, you will have accurate results, regardless of which way you hold the tube.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top