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ღ Miss ShrimpTastic! ஐ...
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Tomorrow my bf will flood our 12G long tank. Horray! : )
15-20 days from tomorrow we will be getting shrimps from our really good friend Eric. So in order to make sure our setup is CRS ready...meaning (S - SS Grades) ready, here is what we have so far.

Mr. Aqua 12 Gallon Long Tank.
15lbs of Eco-Complete (Bottom) + 8lbs of Fluval Shrimp Stratum (Top) + 12 Osmocote Root Tabs buried 2-3 inches into the substrate. 7 piece of medium to small Seriyu Stones.
Emersed Growth: HC, HM, MM, DHG, Glosso, Tropica 049, Micro Sword, Mini Pellia, Downoi and HygroSunset.
Emeresed Growth Time: Start on 8.1.2011. End on 9.30.2011. (2 months. According to Tom Barr my Ammonia and Nitrate should be fully cycled by now).
Light: Finnex 13W CFL x 2
Filtration: 510 Zoomed Canister Filter w/ Premium Carbon-Ammonia Neutralizing Blend, Biomedia & Purigen.
CO2 & Fertilizers: Pressurized CO2 + Excel + Comprehensive Supplements.

Projected Methods:
1.) We will be using 100% RO water to fill the tank. The TDS reading of our RO water is currently at 18. gH and kH are both at either 0 or 1, (can't really tell because when a drop is added, it already turns the water green and yellow respectively). Will add Fluval Shrimp Mineral Suppliment into our RO water until it reads 3-5 GH and 0-1 KH. Once that value is obtained, a TDS reading will take place. This will be our "clean water TDS".

2.) Once the tank is filled, we will need to recheck GH / KH within that day as well as TDS.

So now, here are the questions:
1.) How long should we wait before doing 50% water changes. Also, should it still be 100% RO w/ added supplements?

2.) We will have pressurized CO2 set up, should we run it at 3-4 bps right away or start low and gradually increase it to that? My goal is to run CO2 for no more than 1 month. I want to start off high so the CO2 needy plants can root itself better besides the 8 weeks emersed and slowly ween it down to 2-3 bps, 1-2 and finally 0.5 - 1 is my goal or just no CO2 completely. I hope bee shrimps don't feel the effect of CO2 if its only 0.5 - 1 bps.

3.) What should we dose. We have Seachem: Excel, Comprehensive Supplements, Iron, Phosphorus, Potassium and Nitrogen. Our goal is to maximize plant growth and minimal algae.

With all this into account, about how long should we wait until we can "safely" add CRS? Can we add Nerite Snails and Cherry Shrimps since day 1? (The RCS will only serve as algae / diatom eaters while the tank is being cycled, they will be removed once CRS are added).
 

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I would not recommend any bee shrimp for this kind of set up. You can definitely try it but be ready for lots of random deaths.

Take it slow! Dont add everything at once.

All you need to fert is macros and micros. So if you are using seachem products this would be nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, and flourish comprehensive. Since you're doing plants like baby tears I would hold on to the iron for if you see little growth. You dont need to dose excel if you are using a pressurized CO2 system. I would hold on to it if you ever want to spot treat some algae.

However much CO2 you want to pump in is up to you. If you want it to be easy, get yourself a drop checker which will tell you when there is a good amount of CO2 in your water. If not, just watch your plants and see how they react to less or more over time.

If you are putting cherry shrimp in a tank just know that this is permanent. Even if you wanted to remove them, its impossible unless you completely take everything out of the tank and suck them up with a hose. They are a pain in the butt to get out. Go with something like an otocinclus catfish ONCE you get algae problems.

When I had my high tech planted tank I lost 12/14 nerite snails. These were put in the tank several months after it was set up. They all died one after another in a few weeks time. I saved the last 2 and put them in my community tank in which I do nothing to alter water parameters. This tank is straight tap water and ornaments so the hardness is out the roof and pH is 7.6. They have been thriving and trying to mate for over a year now. What I'm saying is that I do not think they will last very long in a tank like this as they died out fast in mine.

Everything in your filter, except the biomedia, will not help this system. The ammo-carb will take out necessary nutrients that the plants will use for healthy growth, and the purigen will do the same/similar. All I use in my planted tanks are biomedia and coarse and fine filter pads.

Someone else will have to answer your RO questions as I've just started getting into using it.

Again, take it slow! And get ready for a lot of plant trimming Lol.
 

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Purigen only removes organics, not dosed nutrients, so it's fine for planted tanks. The other chemical media isn't neccessary though.

Also, my suggestion is not to use seachem excel, in my experience (and plenty of others) it kills many things (even some plants).
 

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I might consider that Purigen is also ammonia scavenger and plant's would maybe take up ammonia much quicker.
With small bio-load that shrimp represent, plant's would use up waste produced by shrimp fairly quick so no need for chemical media except to maybe polish water.
Again ,,small bio-load,,, water clarity should not be an issue.
Spend money instead on foods,or more shrimp.:smile:
 

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ღ Miss ShrimpTastic! ஐ...
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think the main reason to my setup not being "bee-shrimp suitable" is the CO2 injection and the dosing. From everything else I think its fair enough to raise bees in yes? As for the CO2 injection and liquid ferts, its to ease the transition of all the emersed plants and reduce algae blooms. Once the tank seems established, hopefully by Nov. 1st the CRS will be ok?

Perhaps its best to get my "holding tank" ready for the CRS first before relying on putting all the CRS in my newly setup tank althought it is technically "cycled".

My RCS tank is currently reading this, will adding S-SS shrimps be ok?

pH: 6.5
gH: 5
kH: 5
Temp: 72F
TDS: 340
 

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ღ Miss ShrimpTastic! ஐ...
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, they won't die from those parameters, they just probably won't breed in there with a kh that high.
Liam, that is really good to know. So how could I lower the kH while keeping the gH constant at around 5? Its a 20 gallon long low-tech tank, so how many % of its water should I replace with 100% RO water that is TDS 18 and 0-1 gH/kH? :biggrin:
 

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If your going to run CO2 I'd highly recommend the drop checker, I got mine from Liam in the power seller forum. I was dosing way too much CO2 before I got one, thankfully I got it under control before adding CRS.

I would think you could get away with the osmocote root tabs for ferts from what I hear, but I have not tried them yet.

I have heard excel kills shrimp, and there is no need for it with injected CO2.
 

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ღ Miss ShrimpTastic! ஐ...
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you for all the input so far. I believe the main problem is still the CO2 and Excel making this tank not "bee shrimp" ready.

If 1 month from now, we only run CO2 at 0.5 - 1 bps and keep the dosing of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, and flourish comprehensive everytime we do water changes, would it be a CRS "ready and breeding" tank?
 

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You are always going to have trouble with them breeding in a tank that is constantly being injected with CO2 and ferts. This doesnt mean that you cant do it. It means that its going to be very difficult. Make sure to have constant oxygenation when the lights are off or they will all be on their sides when you wake up in the morning.

So when you say that you want them to breed are you saying that you want them popping out enough babies to make some decent profit? Or do you just want to know that they are doing well and this can be shown by obvious reproduction? There is no doubt that they can breed in this enviroment but they will not do it as fast as if you set up a tank specifically for them and their needs. It can be hard to make a nice looking breeding tank but you can definitely make it happen!
 

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ღ Miss ShrimpTastic! ஐ...
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When can I start adding the white clouds and horned nerites based on my current water parameters in my journal? : )
 

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ღ Miss ShrimpTastic! ஐ...
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
How are my current conditions for these new additions?

3(A) Grade & 1 (S) Grade CRS

* TDS: 75ppm (before adding Fluval Shrimp Stratum) / 163ppm (after)
* Chlorine: 0
* Ammonia: 0
* Nitrate/Nitrite: 0 / 0
* Temp: 70-78F
* pH: 6-7
* kH: 2 / gH: 6
* Lights on 8 hours per day (9:30AM-11:30AM) (2PM-5PM) & (10PM-12AM)
* CO2 is on 24/7 (1-2 bps)
* No fertilizer dosing

My kH reads out 2 right after the water change, would it tend to go down later on by itself or will another water change be needed. The value is the same as the last 50% water change, any ideas why?
 

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Maybe your KH test is old? I dunno.

If you're using 0 KH water to do a water change, and it reads the same before and after a WC, something is haywire.

The KH will go down though if you have aquasoil in there.
 

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ღ Miss ShrimpTastic! ஐ...
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Maybe your KH test is old? I dunno.

If you're using 0 KH water to do a water change, and it reads the same before and after a WC, something is haywire.

The KH will go down though if you have aquasoil in there.
My bf just did the retest just now, its weird that now the kH is up to 4 and gH is 8. He did it twice because of this odd reading. But could that be possible over just one night?

The two things that were added since then is a small Manzanita branch (shown in my planted journal) that had been established and taken from another tank, and a small piece of cholla I got from you cut in 1/2. Its only a 3" piece with 1 inch diameter, I can't imagine that will change the kH and gH that much with just those two additions. TDS also now reads 200ppm, went from mid 160's to 200...

All this reading got me really confused now at the state I am in...???
 

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ღ Miss ShrimpTastic! ஐ...
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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