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Invert Warrior
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've noticed so many threads on Fluval Specs lately, and I know I personally love my tank.

So wether you've got the Spec 1, 4, 5, 194738, if you've got some lighting that worked for you, or you did a trick to the equipment, added something, replaced the filter, please comment here!

If it works for you, comment. If it doesn't work for you, still comment! It could really help all of us out collectively to have it in one place.

I'll start off with a few things I have learned in the next post!
 

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Invert Warrior
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Alrighty..

So a few things I've learned..

In order:

1: The tank is really nice, but you could always replace the filter. The black section is easily removable, and you could stick in some normal filter and still use it like that, just have the extra deep space.

2: If you hate the frosted glass, and you want to try out the idea in #1 (keep in mind that is kind of a permanent mod..) you can put normal scotch tape on the frost, and it makes it see through again. I personally like it the way it is, so I haven't done this.

3: I've looked for different filter ideas, or how to make it better, but I feel like for keeping fish and baby fish, you should put a nylon stocking rubber banded over the outflow if you have the stock black outflow unit.

4: The filter slit at the bottom is/was a huge issue for me. I'd love for different successes and failures on it, but I realized that plugging it completely wasn't the best idea. I put a plastic mesh cover on the front of the sponge cartridge, and when I slipped it down, it kept my shrimp from getting back there. I learned the hard way, they can, will and do get back there and die.

That's all I've got for now! I hope people like the idea of the thread!


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Thanks for starting this thread! I'll be watching this carefully.

I have a Fluval Spec V and the only thing that I have modified as of right now is the lighting unit. I upgraded it to a Finnex Fugeray 16".

This gives me around 30 PAR at 12" from the substrate putting me on the higher end of low-light and close to the lower end of medium light.
 

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Invert Warrior
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice! I'm shocked the finnex doesn't give you a higher par rating!

But I bet it looks great. You should put a higher light moss on top of your sponge on SS mesh.

It looks nice.


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The filter itself was never an issue for me however I did place a sponge over the outflow nozzle to reduce flow for my betta. I also did not like having that extra slit that allows water to bypass my filter media so I simply placed a piece of acrylic I had between the sponge and the wall. This all but sealed that little slit. For lighting I am using the Fluval 13 watt PC fixture. Those are the mods I've done and it is still a happy Spec!
 

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Nice! I'm shocked the finnex doesn't give you a higher par rating!

But I bet it looks great. You should put a higher light moss on top of your sponge on SS mesh.

It looks nice.


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Maybe you're thinking of the Finnex Ray II. Those puppies *16" or 18"* would put me squarely in the medium light to the high light. Those would require injected CO2 and a rigorous fert regime.

I'm going to try and see what effect plugging the slit has.

Also, does anyone cover the grates as well? I'm afraid the micro rasboras i'm planning on getting will cross over to the filter side through those grates.

The water should still cascade over the top of the divider, no?
 

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Invert Warrior
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The filter itself was never an issue for me however I did place a sponge over the outflow nozzle to reduce flow for my betta. I also did not like having that extra slit that allows water to bypass my filter media so I simply placed a piece of acrylic I had between the sponge and the wall. This all but sealed that little slit. For lighting I am using the Fluval 13 watt PC fixture. Those are the mods I've done and it is still a happy Spec!
I've heard 2 or 3 times that 13 watt fixture is nice. Does it require co2 or anything because its 13 watts in a 2 gallon aquarium?


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I think it'd be wise for everyone to explain which tank they have (or which one they're talking about) to place modifications and problems into perspective.
 

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Invert Warrior
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think it'd be wise for everyone to explain which tank they have (or which one they're talking about) to place modifications and problems into perspective.
That is wise. Although they are all constructed similarly.

I personally have the 2g. I struggled to find a scape that actually worked for it. But I think it is ok now.

You can check my progress in my spec signature.

I'm two days away from putting a nylon cover over the filter outflow.


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Invert Warrior
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey guys! I've been considering swapping out my pump for a canister filter. Zoomed 501. How would this work out in your opinions?

I feel like this would work for any spec, as it is rated for 30 gallons.


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Hey guys! I've been considering swapping out my pump for a canister filter. Zoomed 501. How would this work out in your opinions?

I feel like this would work for any spec, as it is rated for 30 gallons.


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You could put the intake for the filter in the rear chamber and still be able to use the surface skimming ability of the wall. Then you can place the spray bar along the long side of the tank, if it'll fit.
 

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Invert Warrior
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You could put the intake for the filter in the rear chamber and still be able to use the surface skimming ability of the wall. Then you can place the spray bar along the long side of the tank, if it'll fit.
Oh man I'm thinking of cutting the spray bar down and putting it in the small side of the tank... This would work REALLY well.


NOT TO MENTION I can cut some sponge up and shove it in the pit of death place in the dang lower slit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think others should chime in on this. I'm really excited.

No longer would it matter if you plugged the lower slit, just make sure nobody can get past it! I think it would make all specs a lot better cleaned, and I could control the flow with cotton/nylon, yeah?


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Also been thinking about a small canister - placing the input and out put in the filter area.
Only think holding me back is I like the self contained cleanliness of the set up.
 

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Invert Warrior
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also been thinking about a small canister - placing the input and out put in the filter area.
Only think holding me back is I like the self contained cleanliness of the set up.
The only cleanliness I've noticed is the visual lol. But it is the same as a sponge filter almost.

I propose this.. Pardon the bad drawing.

White Line Handwriting Line art Illustration



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Invert Warrior
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Woooooooot! Canister filter works like a CHARM. You can check out my spec thread for more details, but I cut the pipes down and it all fits.

Pet supply Kitchen appliance Cooking Aquarium decor Fish supply



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This is my fluval spec V I’ve had up and running for about 3 months.

Currently have 2 threadfin rainbows, 3 danio galaxy, an oto, and 2 CRS and 3 ghost shrimp. Since setting up the tank I’ve only lost 1CRS to what looked like a molting problem, but that was just a couple of days after introduction - the other two have seemed fine for 2 months now.

The plants are all stock plants from Petsmart, but have really done well. Currently 25% of the water is changed weekly, with daily Excel doses.

The only modifications I made to the setup was the addition of an off brand LED light (8000K white/12000K blue) and an AquaClear 20 powerhead to get some water agitation for increased CO2. The tank is divided up into two minor eco systems. The left side is brighter, open, with faster water movement. The right side is darker with slower water movement. The oto loves the quicker brighter side, while the shrimp hang out more on the darker quieter side. I gave up taking pictures of the fish, they move to fast.

I have been surprised at the plant growth. Need to get in there a do a little aquascaping, but some tools bought on Amazon are wrapped and under the Christmas tree.:icon_wink
 

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Thanks! One of the things that attracted me to the V was the sleek stock light. But now it is driving me crazy - very difficult to work around it if you need to get into the tank.
 

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Alrighty..

So a few things I've learned..

In order:

1: The tank is really nice, but you could always replace the filter. The black section is easily removable, and you could stick in some normal filter and still use it like that, just have the extra deep space.

2: If you hate the frosted glass, and you want to try out the idea in #1 (keep in mind that is kind of a permanent mod..) you can put normal scotch tape on the frost, and it makes it see through again. I personally like it the way it is, so I haven't done this.

3: I've looked for different filter ideas, or how to make it better, but I feel like for keeping fish and baby fish, you should put a nylon stocking rubber banded over the outflow if you have the stock black outflow unit.

4: The filter slit at the bottom is/was a huge issue for me. I'd love for different successes and failures on it, but I realized that plugging it completely wasn't the best idea. I put a plastic mesh cover on the front of the sponge cartridge, and when I slipped it down, it kept my shrimp from getting back there. I learned the hard way, they can, will and do get back there and die.

That's all I've got for now! I hope people like the idea of the thread!


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I haven't really seen a reason or need to modify mine yet. The filter seems to be just right (flow wise) for the tank, and it has a huge amount of media compared to filters with similar flow rates. I also see no point in replacing a built in hidden filter compartment with a HOB filter. I also haven't had much of an issue with shrimp getting into the filter compartment, but the easiest way to fix the issue is by lowering the water level so that it is barely above the overflow strainer. That would likely reduce the flow of the filter, so it might be a good idea to put stainless steel mesh or something behind the strainer.
 

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Invert Warrior
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I haven't really seen a reason or need to modify mine yet. The filter seems to be just right (flow wise) for the tank, and it has a huge amount of media compared to filters with similar flow rates. I also see no point in replacing a built in hidden filter compartment with a HOB filter. I also haven't had much of an issue with shrimp getting into the filter compartment, but the easiest way to fix the issue is by lowering the water level so that it is barely above the overflow strainer. That would likely reduce the flow of the filter, so it might be a good idea to put stainless steel mesh or something behind the strainer.
That filter compartment isn't the issue. It is the small one towards the bottom. Yes, the best idea is to block it With mesh or plastic.

The issue with the filter in general is it is a closed unit. Doesn't remove any mulm. My canister now effectively removes the mulm.

Lots of people enjoy modifying their specs, but I'm glad you enjoy yours the way it is.


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