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Me vs. spirogyra was a battle that raged for several months. But once I dosed sufficient enough micronutrients (macros were taken care of), it eventually stunted and went away never to return. Anyway, I've never used algaefix so it's best to follow directions on the bottle.
 

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I'm using two 13-watt CFLs on my 10 with very high plant mass, CO2 (~45ppm), and regular dosing. If I weren't running CO2 and have low-light plants, I'd change out the bulbs to something much lower output. The two 13-watts add too much light.

On my other 10, I'm only using one 13-watt CFL and the moss, java ferns, Bolbitis, and Ludwigia are all growing well. No algae except for GDA on the glass that I simply haven't bothered to scrap off. So one 13-watt bulb is sufficient for these plants.
 

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Does the hood have an aluminum reflector? Brightness is also relative to the amount of ambient light in the room. If there's a lot of ambient light, then the bulbs will seem dim by comparison.
 

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Is your tap water chloriminated? If so, that can account for the ammonia (usually around .25-.5ppm) as chloramines = chlorine+ammonia. The dechlorinator should bind to it, rendering it harmless, but it will still read positive.

I would stop doing water changes.
 
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