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Discussion Starter #1
My hair algae/fuzz algae keeps on growing!!

Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 5

I have co2 as well, and high lighting. The tank is completely filled with plants and the algae keeps growing on it!
 

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Going to need a lot more info than this...

1.) What size tank do you have?
2.) What kind of lighting do you have? Duration?
3.) What kind of substrate are you using?
4.) How are you injecting co2? Pressurized or DiY?
5.) How are you monitoring your CO2 levels? What is the ppm?
6.) What is your water change schedule?
7.) What is your KH/GH/TDS?
8.) What do you have for fish or inverts?

Lastly, pictures are worth a thousand words!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Going to need a lot more info than this...

1.) What size tank do you have?
2.) What kind of lighting do you have? Duration?
3.) What kind of substrate are you using?
4.) How are you injecting co2? Pressurized or DiY?
5.) How are you monitoring your CO2 levels? What is the ppm?
6.) What is your water change schedule?
7.) What is your KH/GH/TDS?
8.) What do you have for fish or inverts?

Lastly, pictures are worth a thousand words!

1. 10 gallon
2. Chihiros RGB+ and a 20 watt white led (8 hours a day)
3. I’m using ecocomplete
4. Diy co2 with a very fine diffuser
5. Well, I’m doing 2 bubbles a second. I don’t test co2 levels, Ige kept it at 2 bubbles per second for like 6 months but now I’m getting algae. It’s probably not the co2
6. I do 50% water change a week
7. I’m not sure
8. It’s extremely low stocking, only 1 betta fish.

(Also my tank is completely filled with plants. Thick carpet of pearl weed, and in the back Rotala rotundifolia, water wisteria, rotala Vietnam, and ludwiga red)

I also dose flourish fertilizer.
 

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Well, I’m doing 2 bubbles a second. I don’t test co2 levels, Ige kept it at 2 bubbles per second for like 6 months but now I’m getting algae. It’s probably not the co2


I also dose flourish fertilizer.
What makes you think your CO2 is fine if you don't check it? I would check the ph of tank water that's been in a glass overnight, and then check again right when your lights come on. You want a ph drop of 1 full point.

What kind of Flourish are you dosing? Flourish Comprehensive? Comprehensive is anything but comprehensive; it doesn't contain any macronutrients. I would look into something like Thrive or EI dosing.

Finally turn off that second light, and reduce your photo period to 6 hours. That will help while you figure out the rest of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What makes you think your CO2 is fine if you don't check it? I would check the ph of tank water that's been in a glass overnight, and then check again right when your lights come on. You want a ph drop of 1 full point.

What kind of Flourish are you dosing? Flourish Comprehensive? Comprehensive is anything but comprehensive; it doesn't contain any macronutrients. I would look into something like Thrive or EI dosing.

Finally turn off that second light, and reduce your photo period to 6 hours. That will help while you figure out the rest of it.

Okay, I just ordered thrive all in one fertilizer, I will check the ph today, and I’ll reduce the light timing to 6 hours.

But the problem is, why is there suddenly issues with algae? I’ve kept this setup for a long time but only like 2-3 weeks ago I’ve been getting a huge bloom of algae. If there’s any other specifications I can give you so you can help me figure this out, please ask me!
 

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Hi finnystar2992
Jellopuddinpop asked you what kind of Flourish were you dosing because there is more than one. Light, 20W LED over 10 gallon is a lot of light. I would turn it to 50 - 60%. When you do a water change, what water do you use? What is its Ca, Mg, KH and TDS? You can get the info from the water works if you use tap water.

Why is there suddenly issues with algae, you ask? Because the plants used up their nutrient reserves.

You ordered Thrive fertilizer which I can’t help you with because I don’t know anything about it. We use mostly standard fertilizing minerals, like K2SO4, KNO3, KH2PO4, MgSO4 and CaSO4.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi finnystar2992
Jellopuddinpop asked you what kind of Flourish were you dosing because there is more than one. Light, 20W LED over 10 gallon is a lot of light. I would turn it to 50 - 60%. When you do a water change, what water do you use? What is its Ca, Mg, KH and TDS? You can get the info from the water works if you use tap water.

Why is there suddenly issues with algae, you ask? Because the plants used up their nutrient reserves.

You ordered Thrive fertilizer which I can’t help you with because I don’t know anything about it. We use mostly standard fertilizing minerals, like K2SO4, KNO3, KH2PO4, MgSO4 and CaSO4.

I was dosing the “all in one” seachem flourish. I’m pretty sure the light isn’t really the issue because I’ve had this lighting for a while, and only now I’m getting algae. When I do water changes I use my tap water and dechlorinate with prime. (Also, could it be possible that not dosing fertilizer for about 2-3 weeks be the cause of the algae?)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Hi
If you mean Flourish Comprehensive then there is almost nothing in it but iron Fe. It was meant to be used with Flourish Trace to have more complete trace element mix. These are micro nutrients. And because you have been adding only one micro element and no other micro and macro elements the plants used up their reserves and became weak. They couldn’t fight algae any longer.

 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited by Moderator)
Okay got it, hopefully the thrive will help. Here’s a picture of my tank


Hi
If you mean Flourish Comprehensive then there is almost nothing in it but iron Fe. It was meant to be used with Flourish Trace to have more complete trace element mix. These are micro nutrients. And because you have been adding only one micro element and no other micro and macro elements the plants used up their reserves and became weak. They couldn’t fight algae any longer.


And should my plants start growing better and looking better after I make the switch to thrive ferts (which has macro and micro elements)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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That's a heavily planted tank man, you definitely need a good dosing regime. Once your plants start growing well, your issues should go away.

I always find it fascinating though, how some people get to grow lush tanks with little to no knowledge and some do their best for the plants and don't achieve success.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited by Moderator)
That's a heavily planted tank man, you definitely need a good dosing regime. Once your plants start growing well, your issues should go away.

I always find it fascinating though, how some people get to grow lush tanks with little to no knowledge and some do their best for the plants and don't achieve success.

I don’t think that there’s any luck in growing beautiful and lush plants. So if an experienced hobbyist is not doing well with their tanks, most likely they’re not putting in effort. I wouldn’t say I have little knowledge, I’ve known that my plants weren’t thriving for a while, and I knew that hair algae grows with high levels of iron. I’ve took a look at the elements that are in flourish comprehensive a few times, I did only see micro elements. The reason I never made a switch to a micro and macro fertilizer (thrive ferts or Nilo cg dry ferts) was because I was sitting at low tech for a while. I progressed in knowledge with mistakes that I made throughout the journey of keeping this tank. In the beginning I made the mistake of using a cheap dim blue and white led light, and also using eco complete (which is pretty much gravel). After I saw my pearl weed growth being very low (I only had pearl weed in the tank at the time) I decided to use a 20 watt shop light instead. This was the best idea I had, after my pearl weed started growing great, I began added background plants. Eventually I wasn’t happy with my Rotala rotundifolia coloring, so I decided to make citric acid co2. And finally, I got a Chihiros rgb light (this spectrum really helped my red plants pop), and I’m using it with my shop light. I knew that a sudden inbalance would cause algae, and I knew that my fertilizer would be out competed by my lighting.

So what I’m trying to say is that, I wasn’t just “lucky” in getting my tank to look the way it looks.

If you want, I can show you my tank progression from June to now








 

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I had a similar problem and then read someplace (perhaps here) that hair algae needs phosphate and phosphate in present in fish food. In my case I have lots of fish and feed lots of food. I bought some Seachem Phosguard pads and added them to my filter. In two weeks most of the hair algae was gone. I have to put in new pads every month or it slowly comes back because of the fish food. Looking at your tank I would add ammano shrimp to the cleanup crew (only critters besides Siamese algae eaters that eat hair algae) add at least one Phosguard pad to the filter and hope for the best. My tank is 165 gal so I need two. This worked for me but your mileage will vary.
 

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5. Well, I’m doing 2 bubbles a second. I don’t test co2 levels, Ige kept it at 2 bubbles per second for like 6 months but now I’m getting algae. It’s probably not the co2
/QUOTE]


2 BPS CO2 is probably no longer adequate for your increased plant mass...it may have been fine initially but I suspect your plants are now limited by a low amount of CO2. You should be getting a 1.0 pH drop...a pH pen like this can help



https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-0-05ph-Accuracy-Readout-Temperature/dp/B06XKMH86J/


Once dialed in you'll probably find yourself limited by some other nutrient - N, P, K, etc. - but start with CO2


Lastly, IMO this is recommended reading for those with algae issues


https://greenaqua.hu/en/alga-tajekoztato
 

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No phosphorus P no plants.

Both, plants and algae need phosphorus. If it is removed, algae may slow down but plants will die. Dying plants start leaking nutrients which algae will use to grow.

When phosphorus is available, algae may start growing and plants will grow healthy. Healthy plants will resist algae and release chemical warfare allelochemicals that will kill algae around them.

Judging the situation without a PO4 test kit is impossible. The actual water column concentration is needed in order to determine if the problem is too little or too much of PO4. Both is bad. If PO4 is on the lower side of the test kit scale then it needs to be added. If it is on the higher side of the scale then more plants or less fish is needed, or existing plants are not having enough other essential nutrients.
 

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Pros use Seachem Excel to prevent Algae especially hair algae.
You probably have too much light or other imbalances but instead of chasing fertilizer params, use a comprehensive like Thrive (its fine).
Keep up with substrate cleaning, maintenance, water changes and with Excel you should be rid of your algae in no time.
Lookup @Deanna algae bomb with Excel.
 

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Pros use Seachem Excel to prevent Algae especially hair algae.
You probably have too much light or other imbalances but instead of chasing fertilizer params, use a comprehensive like Thrive (its fine).
Keep up with substrate cleaning, maintenance, water changes and with Excel you should be rid of your algae in no time.
Lookup @Deanna algae bomb with Excel.
I agree with almost everything said here, except that the pros use Excel to control their algae. While many people do dose liquid carbon, I would say their clean tanks come from intensive maintenance, and proper balance of light, ferts, and CO2. Liquid carbon may have a place, but I think most serious planted tank enthusiasts use it as one tool in a very large toolbox.

I only mention this because it's not a miracle cure. You need the other components that you mentioned, and if those are done properly, then excel isn't even needed at all.
 

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You're getting a lot of good advice above, and a few dubious ones too.

As mentioned above, I would first concentrate on CO2. Getting it right is well worth your time. Saying 2 bps has no meaning. Bubbles are not uniform in size.

Learn how to get a good accurate pH reading of a degassed sample of tank water. Then focus on pH drop from that level. You want at least a 1.00 drop, and something closer to 1.2 to 1.4 is even better. Getting CO2 right can fix a lot of problems. You can bang your against the wall changing dosing levels, but getting CO2 dialed will improve things much quicker.

And as others have mentioned, be sure to be dosing both macros and micros. Like @Edward said, starving plants are an easy target for algae.

Do NOT get a Phosphate remover. There isn't a planted tank in the world that needs a Phosphate remover. Plants love it and need it to survive. Hair algae is more likely from too few Phosphates, not too many.

Next keep up on maintenance. Besides CO2, the next best way to avoid algae. This includes removing any dead or dying plant matter, regular water changes, regular filter cleanings, plant mass management, gravel vacs, etc. And uber clean tank is one of the best defenses against all algae.

And I don't know of any "Pros" that rely on Excel. In fact, I don't know any that use it all, except in maybe a very extreme case. Keep in mind it is an algaecide, and does not promote plant growth at all. In fact, can damage many plants if dosed too much. So if you use it, be careful and study up on what you are doing. IMO, better to address and fix the root causes.


Good luck and look forward to seeing where things go from here.
 
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