[beanbag]

Hello folks,

I have a Taiwan Bee tank that is a bit over a year old, but I haven't found a good steady state equilibrium for shrimp / plants / algae.
Currently I dose a low level of nitrates and all-in-one, but the ammonia / nitrite / nitrate are still stuck at zero. Some algae grows on the walls which the shrimp graze on, but recently there is also floating patches of algae on top of the water. They are so thin that you can barely see them, but when I scoop it out, it looks like a green film with a little bit of blue tint. Is this BGA (cyanobacteria)? Most of the pictures I find on the internet have it covering the substrate instead. I read that it is mildly toxic, so I wonder if this is the reason my shrimp have been kind of quiet recently. Is H2O2 a good way to get rid of this? I also read that this can grow if the nitrates are too low, so does that mean dose even more ferts?
Second question - the bottom third of my Ludwigia Arucata seems to be covered with some kind of dead algae. I think it was formerly hair algae - which the shrimp won't eat - and has now died and turned a darker green. The shrimp don't eat that either, so it stays around. What is a good way to get rid of this?


The plants in this tank are: peacock moss (grows fast)

S repens (most prone to yellowing, and recently losing a lot of leaves)

Monte Carlo (doing well right now)

DHG (never grew well)

Ludwigia Arucata (grows fast, but also collects algae)

 

[Scully]

What's the size of the tank/filtration? Dosing amounts? CO2? What light are you using? Pics?

 

[Zoidburg]

Can't answer your algae questions, but if you are using active substrate that's over a year old now, that *could* be why the shrimp aren't doing as well - even if your water parameters remain good.

 

[beanbag]

Can't answer your algae questions, but if you are using active substrate that's over a year old now, that *could* be why the shrimp aren't doing as well - even if your water parameters remain good.

Well the pH has risen from the original 6.0 up to 6.5 by now. I put some scoops of fresh substrate behind the filter but it did not "buffer" back to the original pH.

 

[beanbag]

What's the size of the tank/filtration? Dosing amounts? CO2? What light are you using? Pics?

5G
HMF
few drips per week of Aquavitro N or Nilocg Thrive S
no
home made led strip
not now

 

[GrampsGrunge]

I've found that this product, UltraLife Blue-Green Slime Remover seems to work well in shrimp/fish/planted tanks. It fought off a patch of BGA (actually a Cyanobacteria..) without hurting the shrimp or plants. I'm using a reduced doseage because the BGA outbreak was small.

A few questions: Is your Matten filter air powered? When you built your home made strip LED did you research the spectrum and or Color Rendering Index of the, (I'm, assuming it's a strip COB LED.?) Do you have enough healthy plants to compete with the algae?

One thing to consider: BGA is usually a sign that your Nitrates are low in the presence of other sufficient if maybe excessive levels of Phosphates and other dissolved nutrients/minerals. I assume you're using RO water thinned with tap water? Have you checked your municipal water's sources chemistry, can you get a water composition chart from the city water plant?

 

[beanbag]

A few questions: Is your Matten filter air powered? When you built your home made strip LED did you research the spectrum and or Color Rendering Index of the, (I'm, assuming it's a strip COB LED.?) Do you have enough healthy plants to compete with the algae?

One thing to consider: BGA is usually a sign that your Nitrates are low in the presence of other sufficient if maybe excessive levels of Phosphates and other dissolved nutrients/minerals. I assume you're using RO water thinned with tap water? Have you checked your municipal water's sources chemistry, can you get a water composition chart from the city water plant?

The HMF has a regular water pump plus venturi to make fine bubbles.
It's a Bridgelux strip with color temperature variable from 2700K to 5000K. I program it to be more warm in the morning and bluer at noon.
As for plants, see the first post.
Nitrates are always zero, but I haven't measured phosphates in a while.
The water is RO + remineralizer. No tap

 

[Scully]

I'm not an expert but I'd say that the main factor here would be your light. From what I know is that most plants, especially more demanding plants like S Repens and DHG, will need a full spectrum/medium-high intensity light. Since your light doesnt reach the 6500k spectrum it could be why they aren't doing well. Since they aren't doing well/dieing, they're leaving organic material to break down in the tank. My guess is you don't have enough plants that are doing well to keep up with these organics.

I'd get a full spectrum LED strip and add it in to your light. Also what is your current lighting schedule exactly?

Side note: I use Thrive and find that it raises my nitrates a good amount. If you're using a dropper to dose your ferts I'd suggest going by the instructions on the bottle, I believe 20 drops is 1 ML. I'd stick with one fertalizer and have a regular schedule for it, for example my bottle says 2ml 2x a week per 10 gallons. I dose 1ML @ my weekly WC, and then 1ML every other day. This keeps my nitrates at a more stable level rather than spiking them every few days.

I could be wrong though, I've never dealth with BGA. Pics would help a ton IMO.