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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pls find the algae which I removed from my plants . .. pls help in identifying it and suggest measures in getting rid of the same


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That is filamentous, either hair or string algae. Manually remove as much as you can when you see it. You can use a tooth brush or wood stick like a chop stick and spin it up. It will snag onto it and wrap around it like a spool. I would do this when the filter is off so you break away too many pieces and let them fly to other parts of your tank to grow. You should also remove leaves or sections of plants that are effected worst. You can use an algaecide like seachem excel, reduce your lighting, or even introduce faster growing plants to help outcompete it. A number of things. How old is your tank? For me this tends to pop up near the beginning. Are you fertilizing? How much? How long do you run your lights?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is filamentous, either hair or string algae. Manually remove as much as you can when you see it. You can use a tooth brush or wood stick like a chop stick and spin it up. It will snag onto it and wrap around it like a spool. I would do this when the filter is off so you break away too many pieces and let them fly to other parts of your tank to grow. You should also remove leaves or sections of plants that are effected worst. You can use an algaecide like seachem excel, reduce your lighting, or even introduce faster growing plants to help outcompete it. A number of things. How old is your tank? For me this tends to pop up near the beginning. Are you fertilizing? How much? How long do you run your lights?
Hi.. my tank is 1.5 months old.. I started fertilizing last week with tropica plant nutrition 7pumps as per instruction.. I had 6hrs of photoperiod initially after this algae reduced to 4hrs and increased CO2 to 8hrs

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Generally for co2, you can start it 2 hours before lights turn on, and end it one hour before lights turn off. So if your running 4 hours of light you should have 5 hours of co2. If you’re trying to increase the co2, instead of increasing the overall amount of time it’s on, you would increase the bubble rate that it’s going at. Did the algae start after fertilizing? If so you may also want to cut the fertilizer back slightly as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Generally for co2, you can start it 2 hours before lights turn on, and end it one hour before lights turn off. So if your running 4 hours of light you should have 5 hours of co2. If you’re trying to increase the co2, instead of increasing the overall amount of time it’s on, you would increase the bubble rate that it’s going at. Did the algae start after fertilizing? If so you may also want to cut the fertilizer back slightly as well.
No, the algae started before fertilizing... Some plants started melting so I added ferts...

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If your plants came potted, it can be normal to get some melting as they transition into fully submerged growth. Some plants like crypts are notorious for this. If it's a nutrients problem, they tend to show deficiencies before melting in my experience. With aquasoil, you should have enough nutrients in your new tank to sustain the monte carlo for the short term. High ammonia could harm your plants as well. I would do some more frequent water changes to make sure ammonia isn't an issue as well as remove excess nutrients the algae can benefit from. Remove hair algae whenever you see it, as well as injecting only 5 hours of co2 for your 4 hours of light. You could increase your light time to 5 or 6 hours and turn down the intensity of the light if you're able to adjust that. Make sure ambient room light isn't hitting the tank from windows etc. The tank should eventually hit a balance. There could be other unknowns without seeing everything that's in your tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If your plants came potted, it can be normal to get some melting as they transition into fully submerged growth. Some plants like crypts are notorious for this. If it's a nutrients problem, they tend to show deficiencies before melting in my experience. With aquasoil, you should have enough nutrients in your new tank to sustain the monte carlo for the short term. High ammonia could harm your plants as well. I would do some more frequent water changes to make sure ammonia isn't an issue as well as remove excess nutrients the algae can benefit from. Remove hair algae whenever you see it, as well as injecting only 5 hours of co2 for your 4 hours of light. You could increase your light time to 5 or 6 hours and turn down the intensity of the light if you're able to adjust that. Make sure ambient room light isn't hitting the tank from windows etc. The tank should eventually hit a balance. There could be other unknowns without seeing everything that's in your tank.
Few days back I experienced heavy bio film.. so in order to reduce it I created surface agitation using lily pipes. Not sure whether all my CO2 lost due to this I did... Only after tat I started to find this algae... Also did some rescaping might be due to tat also...

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Re-scaping with aquasoil can definitely cause a spike in nutrients if you're not super careful about it, especially new soil. I would let it settle down, do more frequent water changes and remove what algae you can. If it gets really bad, along with manual removal, an algaecide like Excel will certainly work, especially with a double dose (research that), but it's potent and not for everyone. Some people think it's not worth putting what is basically a hospital cleaning product in their tank. For your biofilm, you can get a surface skimmer like Eheim or others make, which causes very little surface agitation, or you can lift you lily pipes up only when the co2 and lights aren't running. That will clear it up each day without effecting your co2 levels.
 
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