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D*mn! thats a piece of art!Keep up the great work man.(just curious,why the driftwood you got has white colour?
 

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#&#%$!!! :evil:

are you sure of that price for flourite? i got dinged for $45 a bag. but the shipping was included...
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Ah but shipping was expensive...

I paid 19.99 per bag and bought 7 bags
I also paid about 75.00 for postage (going by memory here!)

total (not using taxes here in this) was 214.93

Worked out to $30.00 per bag plus tax. (Canadian and only a short hop from you Jart:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Well – I guess I should post the rest of the hood info – seeing as it is finished and I must say I am very pleased with the end result.



I think I ended off the last part with screwing and gluing down the top of the front portion, after having just ripped it on the table saw. Well the front is finished with the exception of paint and sanding etc… here she is…
 

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Thought about veneering that baby ?
It would make it look like a $1000 tank

I know its a little more work, veneered a rococo chair once, lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Next we look at the rear of the tank. basically it is 2 side pieces 8 1/8 wide - a back that is 48-1/8 wide (between the sides this time) ant a top that is the full 10" wide (9-1/4") – leaving a overhang. It is assembled in similar fashion to the front - I noticed this portion of the project went faster than the front - it was not quite as detailed as the front plus I had the benefit of the experience gained from making the front. (And I never had to chisel this part:).



Once all assembled and test fitted to the aquarium I did notice the top of the rear piece was a little "cupped" - I was hoping that it wouldn't be too much of a hindrance for the piano hinge otherwise I was going to have to resort to a couple of heavier regular style hinges in liew of the piano hinge - I was not in favor of this just for looks. Fortunately the piano hinge worked just fine. You can see in the photo that the C-clamp is pulling the top in for the gluing and screwing to get that nice clean fit like I mentioned before when I did the front.

And of the back...
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Ok - next is the process of painting - the first coat was applied all over - inside and out - of Latex PVA primer / Sealer and then I painted the outside semigloss black (as close a finish to the Hagen stand as I could find) and the inside is painted a high gloss White. 2 coats of each...

 

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Well as for veneering flat surfaces like that its quite easy, you allready have some clamps, just need a board slightly bigger than the area you are veneeringput some paper between it and the veneer incase any glue goes through, then steam the veneer a bit if it has wobly bits in, get some good glue, like the stuff they use for shoe soles, put un your veneer, put on paper, put on bigger board, and clamp for a day or 2, then just sandoff any pieces of paper stuck and you have created a wooden surface in any type of your choice.

I was 17 the first time I did it, and that was from a book, sureley you can find something on the web, in total its gonna cost you another 10 minutes of work, and all you need oter than the glue is a nice sharp sidecutter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
On to the Electrical...

I decided to go with 4 of the 55w compact fluorescent lamps for this project and I ordered them in from AHSupply. I suppose I could have gone to my local electrical distributor and gotten some ballasts, sockets, and cabtire cable etc. but by going to AHSupply I got the gasketed sockets, nice electronic ballasts, and the nice reflectors – all fitting into the hood just perfectly etc… it was worth the extra price. I also ordered 4 of the 5k 55w Panasonic lamps. I also got a box of 6 of the GE 9325K lamps coming in from my local distributor. I plan on using 2 5k lamps in the front and 2 9325k lamps in the back.

Also from my local electrical distributor I picked up some ½” locknuts, ½” plastic bushings, some various ½” conduit nipples, some 2 screw 3/8" locknutted connectors, 2 electrical utility boxes (1110) and 2 switch covers to fit the boxes (11C5) – plus a 4x4 junction box (52151K) and a 4x4 cover (52C1)

I placed the boxes on the back oh the hood under the overhang I created when I put the top on. Before I mounted the 4x4 box I drilled a 1” hole through the back of the hood for a conduit nipple to go through and then took a knockout out of the back of the 4x4 box – and used locknuts and bushings. (The plastic bushings are to protect the wires against rubbing against the nipple edges.) I then added the 2 switch boxes and used nipples between them all for running the power and ground wires through. If you’re not familiar with electricity get someone to help if you’re doing what I did – as I never totally followed AHsupply’s directions 100%....

Anyway once wired I then brought the 4 cables that lead to the tubes into the 4x4 box via the hole in the back – and I routed the ballast wires along the hood under the boxes and used the ¼” clips that AHS provided (plus some of my own as I ran out…. Gardner Bender (GB Electrical) packages them for retail sale. Once I had all my ballast leads and lamp cords back to the 4x4 box I wired them up using Marrettes (Wire Nuts) etc… the diagram from AHS is very good on this – follow it!

Ok – screwed down the switches, and attached the covers. Measured where I wanted my reflectors to go inside the hood and attached them. I used the nylon bushings that AHS provides to space the reflectors down from the hood roof by an extra ½ inch etc.. I then routed my wires around the inside of the hood and again used the clips to keep them in place. Remember to leave enough slack on the end so when you open the hood it doesn't rip the lights out:)

 
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