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When I was using a needlewheel pump, I had 350 gph pump on the output side of a fluval 404 with a noticeable increase in flow and no problems. I tried not to get a pump with a much larger gph rating than the canister. As long as the pump isn't pulling more water than the canister can keep up with I think you'll be fine. It might even be interesting to see how it works with the canister pump turned off, wish I'd thought to try that.
 

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FSM - If he puts the pump after the canister filter, the worst would be a few bubbles.


If all you are looking for is more flow, it would be far more efficient to just use powerheads inside the tank. It would also give you more placement options.
 

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ok... WORST CASE SCENARIO. If you are pulling more water out than what can be pulled in, than suction can build inside the canister and actually cause it to implode... no joke. Also the bigger pump pulling more water through the smaller pump than what it can handle can cause it to quit altogether. what you can do to play it safe is get a pump that is equal to the recommended flow rate of the canister. think of it this way -- 2 horses pulling a wagon is better than 1 horse pulling the same wagon. But... if one of those horses is a clydesdale, the other most likely wont have the same strength and endurance to keep up... ;)
 

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If you are trying to make a stronger, more efficient filter, this isn't the way to go. A new can is. (check out my review this evening of my sun sun ebay filter). If you are just wanting more flow, a koralia will do the trick.
 

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I'd be cautious. As an example, two 100gph pumps inline are going to produce a lot more then 100gph. If two 100gph inline pumps end up pumping more like 175gph total, that may be a lot more flow going through them then they are designed for. The rpm of the impeller and the back pressure at the outlet of the 2nd pump will be higher than what is expected.

If you turn off the canister filter pump, then you'll start getting negative pressure where there should be positive. I'm not sure how that will affect the operation of canister.
 

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I really don't think the typical inline pump will have enough suction to implode the canister. I understand that was a worst case scenario, but it's about as likely as the tank falling through the stand.

I used a 200 something g.p.h. pump on my Rena XP2 inline, and it did boost the flow some. I'm looking to buy another pump to set it up again that way right now actually.

The brand I used was Gen-X, and I didn't care for it because the barbs it came with were very cheap, one snapped in half, and the threads were recessed deep within the pump, making the regular hose barbs you can buy from the plumbing store not quite long enough to get a good bite on the threads. I'll be looking for a different brand this time.

Good luck with your setup!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks for all the feedback guys. the reason i asked about adding a pump inline was because i took all the equipment out of the tank today for a good photo and realized how much it takes away from the scape.

my thought was to add enough flow after the the already underpowered filter to be able to run an inline heater and rex style reactor and still have more flow than what i have now. maybe adding a needle wheel pump and axing the rex reactor would be better.

i am quite happy with how well the fluval filters, my water is crystal clear(besides the tannins). i just wanted more flow.

i've said it before and i'll say it again, get a bigger filter than you think you'll need - lol
 

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I've been using and working with water pumps for over twenty years and I can't recall ever seeing more than one water pump used inline. You could build manifolds and feed and discharge a filter and a water movement pump with only one inlet and one outlet.
 

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I've been using and working with water pumps for over twenty years and I can't recall ever seeing more than one water pump used inline. You could build manifolds and feed and discharge a filter and a water movement pump with only one inlet and one outlet.
One usually wouldn't encounter multiple pumps in home water systems. Or commercial systems in a developed area unless you were filling a water tower.

From an interesting manual:
http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/5-484/Ch4.htm

You may have to use several pumps to meet head or flow requirements. You can connect the pumps either in series or in parallel. If you connect two centrifugal pumps in series (the discharge of the first connected to the suction of the second), the discharge capacity stays the same. However, the head capacity is the sum of both pumps head capacities. The increased head capacity is only available as discharge head. You will not gain any appreciable increase in suction lift. You can obtain the same effect by using a multistage pump that contains two or more impellers within one casing.

If you connect two centrifugal pumps in parallel (both suctions are connected to the intake line and both discharges connected to the discharge line), the discharge head is the same as that of the individual pumps. The discharge capacity is close to the sum of the capacities of both pumps. The increased flow rates result in extra friction losses that prevent the combined flows from being the exact sum of the two pumps.
 

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I'm doing this right now with an XP3 and a Rio pump I modified with mesh to run as a needle wheel. Works great. I made a manifold out of 1.5 inch PVC tee's that the XP3 feeds into, and the rio pump pulls out of. It also acts as an inline heater/co2 diffuser/ and temp/ph probe port. I have a bunch of pictures of all the DIY stuff I did with my tank I plan on posting at some point whenever i finally get to starting a journal (DIY plumbing, dosing pumps, MH's, T5's, victor regulator with multiple tee's and solenoids to run more than one tank, stand and canopy)
 

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If I could get ahold of one of the iwaki style pumps with decent head, I'd do it in a minute. The hose size will limit how much water you can move at low pressure so I wouldn't hope for a huge increase.
 
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