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Accordztech's (to be named later) journal. Stand build in progress

6416 Views 55 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  AnonAnona
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Well, I have a few tanks that I learned a lot with. But my 55g had a small tank under it and it sprung a leak messing up my stand. So instead of building a new stand or buying one, I decided that now is the time to build my dream tank.

This time my tank will be outside where OTHER people can enjoy it. Its going to be a 40g breeder that I got at petco for their $1/gal sale.

Since the tank isnt that high, most stands are to low for this stand. So I decided to invest some money into a stand that I will build. Usually im used to building stands and wrapping them with ply and painting it. Easy as pie, but this time I wanted to use quality hardwood and stain it.

I decided against oak and poplar because of the grains. I didnt like the look of oak, in that it looks old (regardless on how you stain it). I decided to use a wood called sapale, its a type of mahogany thats actually used in the newest bmw's lol.

It was not cheap! But im going to build a show tank, why not spend a little more cash and make it look bad ass.

On to the pictures.

PRetty wood


Since this wood was bought at a specialty store, the sides were not even at all. They were a very ruff cut. I wouldnt of been able to put it through the table saw and use the guide because it was so uneven. So I had to jig it and cut it with a table saw to get a straight line.


My pieces cut, most of them. These are the legs. 1x3.5x36''. The burn marks ill sand off later.




Since the stand I was going to make was so high, I decided to put it together and see if I can make it look smaller. I decided to bring the bottom shelf upwards so that porportionally it will look better.


Here are the legs I built, I skeletoned it with 2x2's. I was told it wasnt necessary, but lets face it....im not a pro at wood. it helped me make a corner. Everything is glued and screwed.


Joined the 2 sides together. I also played with the horizontal hardwood pieces. The angle metal brackets you see was to help me hold the stand in place while I was gluing it. I may remove them later.


Here is the bottom of a leg. I used 2'' self drilling screws. I really want to go longer but 2.5'' is to long, and its hard as heck to find 2 1/4'' screws


My initial plan for the sides. But I think for the horizontal pieces I will trim them down (thickness wise) so that they are a little thinner than the legs. Ill do this for the front as well.


This is a dry fit of the horizontal hardwood.


For the sides im planning to try and inlay with some black or some neoprene fabric. I seen it done on entertainment stands, so we will see how it looks.

As for the doors, im building them, but making both doors one solid piece. This way when I work on my tank I can remove the doors completly.

What you guys think?
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Looking forward to seeing you build the stand! I don't know much about building stuff like this, but it looks really solid from what I can tell. I love stained wood stands and can't wait to see how it looks with this wood.

You don't have your location posted, but I'm wondering how your weather will affect having it outside? And what about sunlight?
nice work here. for a 40g breeder which weights about 58lbs, you'll have to engineer the stand to hold approximately 458lbs. I would have went with 2x4" over the 2x2"on the skeleton frame just for the insurance and nominal cost. Consider adding cross or angle braces to prevent racking (torquing, separation or collapse). If nothing else, i'd leave those steel angle braces where they are.

Routing the edges of the legs would give it a softer more finished look as well.

Good luck with your project!
nice work here. for a 40g breeder which weights about 58lbs, you'll have to engineer the stand to hold approximately 458lbs. I would have went with 2x4" over the 2x2"on the skeleton frame just for the insurance and nominal cost. Consider adding cross or angle braces to prevent racking (torquing, separation or collapse). If nothing else, i'd leave those steel angle braces where they are.

Routing the edges of the legs would give it a softer more finished look as well.

Good luck with your project!
At first I was thinking of the 2x4's. But I knew that stands were built without 2x4 and hold up just fine. My last stand for my 12g nano (lol) was made out of 2x4's and even though it held up more than enough, I wanted to build a stand that looked like I knew how to make a structually safe stand, without 2x4's. Just my opinion.

I like the challenge, though I also seeked advice from a veteran on this forum to =).

On another note, before in my other tank, I went with MTS. It was great...till 2 years later it finally showed dimminishing returns. So this time I decided for ADA. I was going to buy some on my next paycheck, but got a killer deal from tom. $20 bucks bought me a HUGE bag of used ADA soil :hihi:

Now I just need a light, and a new power strip. My old power strip wont fit inside my stand cause its 38'' long :angryfire

With the money I saved, I am super tempted to buy the stainless steel lily pipes.
Just called around. Found that catalina aquarium will make me a dual 36'' t5NO unit for 75 bucks. He did say initally 100 bucks, but he remembered me so knocked down the price.

Quite a bit when HO's go for less. But I really dont want to go high light, I want to stay in the medium lighting range.
Just called around. Found that catalina aquarium will make me a dual 36'' t5NO unit for 75 bucks. He did say initally 100 bucks, but he remembered me so knocked down the price.

Quite a bit when HO's go for less. But I really dont want to go high light, I want to stay in the medium lighting range.
If 2 HO's are too much, just get 1 HO. :biggrin: Sorry couldn't resist.
If 2 HO's are too much, just get 1 HO. :biggrin: Sorry couldn't resist.
haha 1 will still put me in the high light range lOL.
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Got a little work in today on the stand. Wish I did more. I chopped down the horizontal pieces a few MM to make the legs stand out and to give it a nicer look.





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Well its been some time, but I been busy. Havent really had time to work on the project.

I only was able to do the top plate that the tank will sit on. Kinda messed up on the angles because my stand isnt 100% square. Hopefully I can put some glue in the gaps and shove some wood shavings in there LOL.

Trying to find another idea for the sides. I dont know if the painted look is right.
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here is the top trim I did.



I REALLY didnt want to buy any more hardwood. These are all good scraps that im trying to work with for a removable door. Im going to put some birch ply behind it. A wise man told me that contrast can be used to my advantage. The side pannels will also have the same birch



Then I said I didnt like the fake drawer, so I did this


Its really not that tall, just around 24''.

Opinions please.
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Looks good to me so far! I'm really interested in how the birch contrast will look when it's all stained.
here is the top trim I did.



I REALLY didnt want to buy any more hardwood. These are all good scraps that im trying to work with for a removable door. Im going to put some birch ply behind it. A wise man told me that contrast can be used to my advantage. The side pannels will also have the same birch



Then I said I didnt like the fake drawer, so I did this


Its really not that tall, just around 24''.

Opinions please.
Are the side panels going to be part of the structure or removable?
Are the side panels going to be part of the structure or removable?


They are going to be apart of the structure and not removable. But I don't know how strong they will initially be cause its very thin plywood.

As for the rear its half inch thickness ply and that will give it support
The rear should be left open so the cords and tubes can pass through.
The rear should be left open so the cords and tubes can pass through.
Im going to drill a big hole....for the wires to go through. Unfortunately the lines for my filter wont fit through the rear because the tank sits flush to the wall. So the lines will come out the side.
Not bad so far. Looks like you could have used a jointer really bad!
Not bad so far. Looks like you could have used a jointer really bad!
Thanks! That, and a planer. But oh well, I will manage. LIke I said before, im not a true woodworker LOL
Im finishing up, but since I used that birch, im having a difficult time finding a stain or color to work with it. Good thing im practicing on test pieces.

I got some shellac amber, and it looks decent on the wood (not red enough IMO after 3 coats) but on the birch it turned it golden yellow. SUCKS.

So I tried some stain in red mahogany for my hardwood. To dark. Then I tried some sedona red. It was redder but not what I am looking for. Im going to try and just seal it with poly and see what the sheen looks like.

I wonder if I can return shellac and stains, I literally only used like a blob of stain on a towel. HEHEHE.
I wonder if I can return shellac and stains, I literally only used like a blob of stain on a towel. HEHEHE.
I called home depot, they said its ok to return! Sweet! I told them I did use some, but only a few tabs of a towel. They opened it up and was like "its still full" lol. So they said anytime go ahead and return them.

So I picked up another color made by rustoleum, cabernet color. It seemed pretty red. The only thing is that its polyurethane. Hopefully I get the look I want.

I also picked up a clear shellac instead of my current amber. I want to see if I can get different effects.
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well, shellac fail. They say sand lightly between coats. I did that and my color went away. LOL. Oh well. I should yell at the wood shop who told me this wood has red in it. Shellac clear and yellow showed no red whatsoever. Should of just went with mahogany, it WAS a little cheaper.

Well I found my color combo. Im going with a cabernet made by rustoleum.



And I will finish it with satin. I tried semi gloss, and it looks a little cheezy.

This is a unprepped wood with cabernet. I did a quick sanding...nothing nice. Just a scrap piece. Darker sheen was semi gloss.

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