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Hello, i just got into fresh water aquarium planting and i was wondering if can ask for your assistance on regards of Co2/Flourish Excel.

Well i would like to mention i have an array of Anubis plants (i.e. petites, nana, regular size ones) and two java moss balls. I have 15 watt light in a 10 gallon fresh water tank, a 50watt heater, red sea (click link) flora substrate, and i have a total of 9 fishes (e.g. 4 guppies and 5 rasbora Hetermorpha Danios)

Question: Should i follow closely to the Seachem Excel sheet. Its a type of sheet where you plug in your tank's specs, such as how many gallons and the seachem chart will automatically calculate how to dose your tank(flourish, excel, iron, potassium, trace etc.) in a 7 day course. Ive been getting a hit and miss with these plants, ive been getting yellow, brown, and melting leaves; also, im getting new growth from these dying plants. I recently added flourish tabs (about 5 of em) and was wondering what is causing my plants to degrade. Should i create a CO2 DIY system? or add 1-ml of excel everyday (according to the Seachem Excel sheet).


(Note: old picture added three more petites and 1 java ball. The angel hair grass have all turned brown and at the brink of removing them)

Anyways, i'm excited to be a member and looking forward to planting enlightenment.


Cheers

NOTE: i do addd sea salt, flourish (fertilizer kind; 2-3ml per water change), flourish excel (cap full per 30-50% water change) and flourish iron (about 1-2ml per water change). I change the water every week and i also have two 10 gallon of power filters by aqueon.
 

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Stop adding salt.
It's a freshwater tank and all your plants and fish are freshwater fish and plants.

Add more light. A cheap way to do that for a 10g tank is an incandescent strip light with two Sylvania, 23 watt, daylight, "now smaller than ever" spiral fluorescent bulbs. They are available at Medard's and I've seen them periodically at Walmart.
Those two bulbs should provide all the light you need, but keep your existing strip in case you want more.

It's not unusual for some plants to melt, and grow back.

I've never had any luck with grasses so I'll leave that to people who are better able to address that.
 

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First, pull the anubias rhizomes out of the substrate, they need light to thrive. The hirgrass died due to lack of light and co2. If you just have anubias and java moss your light should be OK, but a bit more will help, mostly just make sure it's 6500K.
 

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First, pull the anubias rhizomes out of the substrate, they need light to thrive. The hirgrass died due to lack of light and co2. If you just have anubias and java moss your light should be OK, but a bit more will help, mostly just make sure it's 6500K.
6500k is for people. I'm not sure how this keeps cycling the interwebs, but Kelvin rating is what PEOPLE see. So it doesn't actually have much to do with spectral output. Any bulb from 3500 to 15000k will grow plants fine, as long as it meets the basic output needs and other basic needs of plants are met.


Also, quit dosing salt.
 

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Ok so that salt should not be used for plants as a general rule. If you are doing it with every water change then you are just adding more and more salt (which is slow to leave the tank) my suggestion would be to do a 50 percent water change twice a week for about a week. Get all that salt out and your plants should make a miraculous comeback.
 

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I agree about not adding any salt.

Not sure how well hairgrass will grow in very low light with no CO2.

Anubias and Java rhizomes need to be above the substrate.

And dbosman has a good idea with the mini-CFL's. My Lowe's also carries them, and I use them in a different configuration on 2 tanks.
 
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