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So you think there would be a difference between store bought 3% H2O2 and if I took this stuff and diluted it down to 3% with RO water?
Well no, @ 3% is would be the "same" as store bought. I diluted it down maybe 50/50 so 17.5% roughly, and it still hurt if you had a drop touch you. It was used to control bacteria blooms in the Tilapia holding tanks.... gallons at a time.... So people yelling at us for using a few ml's to kill a patch of BBA can step aside ;)

It was quite the seen to watch other workers doing there job, and then watch them touch / rub against a hand rail or wall that had a drop of the 35% or 17.5% (or whatever) H2O2 and immediately run frantically to the nearest holding tank and dunk that body part into the water to rid themselves of the burning LOL! so you would>:) laugh... all is well and fun.... until 30 seconds later it happens to you... ouch.
 

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Anyway Ive never been able to cause or cure bba by adjusting flow. Think it all boils down to organic waste, how clean the water really is. Healthy plants contribute to that more than we realize
I agree with this up to a point. No question to me that organic waste/unhealthy plants are the primary cause, and are the first things to be addressed.

However in my heavily stocked tank, I am probably closer to the edge when it comes to organic waste than most. A bit more out on the tightrope.

When I replaced my filter motors a little while back, it increased flow considerable, I developed some BBA on my driftwood in the high flow area quickly. It struck me as BBA is just something I don't have to worry about much. And it was only in the high flow area, and not on any plants.

I drilled out the holes in my spray bars, which created a much gentler flow. BBA receded almost immediately. So to me, high flow doesn't necessarily cause BBA, but it can be a contributing factor when you are on the edge.
 

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Lookin good! Between you and Slippery Fingers Im gonna have to step my game up!!
Oh really! Says the guy that won the comp on his very first attempt.

I look at it this way, if by me stepping up my game causes you to step up your game it can only benefit me and this hobby in the long run. The more you learn the more you teach! Unless you stop posting pics or giving free advice when ever I message you, which would be really sad.....

Speaking of advice, we need to have a chat regarding mid ground plants. I'm struggling!
 

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I agree with this up to a point. No question to me that organic waste/unhealthy plants are the primary cause, and are the first things to be addressed.

However in my heavily stocked tank, I am probably closer to the edge when it comes to organic waste than most. A bit more out on the tightrope.

When I replaced my filter motors a little while back, it increased flow considerable, I developed some BBA on my driftwood in the high flow area quickly. It struck me as BBA is just something I don't have to worry about much. And it was only in the high flow area, and not on any plants.

I drilled out the holes in my spray bars, which created a much gentler flow. BBA receded almost immediately. So to me, high flow doesn't necessarily cause BBA, but it can be a contributing factor when you are on the edge.
Right. But my point was that tiny particles of organic waste are greater in a high flow area, because there's more water getting blasted over that area. These organic waste particles, too small for the filter, are in the water. These tiny particles get caught on plants or wood or whatever and it grows bba.

I guess you can say flow is the "cause" either way you look at it. Except the less organic waste that's in the water, the less likely flow will cause it. That's just my personal theory of course
 

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Right. But my point was that tiny particles of organic waste are greater in a high flow area, because there's more water getting blasted over that area. These organic waste particles, too small for the filter, are in the water. These tiny particles get caught on plants or wood or whatever and it grows bba.

I guess you can say flow is the "cause" either way you look at it. Except the less organic waste that's in the water, the less likely flow will cause it. That's just my personal theory of course
This is interesting.

Never really thought about it but, the substrate in the front right corner of one of my 40b's is loaded with BBA. Basically there are a bunch of individual AS granules that have BBA growing on them. My powerhead is aimed right at that corner of the tank...... Other then that spot, there is very little BBA else where in the tank.

Yes, its dying. I hit the tank hard the other night with a big dose of Excel. Maybe I should stop being lazy and clean the filter, its only been two months or more. Can't do this when you have dusty old AS, you have to be on top of filter cleaning....

 

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Just finished reading through. Tanks looking good!
 

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Right. But my point was that tiny particles of organic waste are greater in a high flow area, because there's more water getting blasted over that area. These organic waste particles, too small for the filter, are in the water. These tiny particles get caught on plants or wood or whatever and it grows bba.

I guess you can say flow is the "cause" either way you look at it. Except the less organic waste that's in the water, the less likely flow will cause it. That's just my personal theory of course
Very well put and agreed. Good food for thought for many.

Bump:
I look at it this way, if by me stepping up my game causes you to step up your game it can only benefit me and this hobby in the long run.
Some of us are just trying to get some game!!:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
15 days untouched - fish were fed sparingly every few days, cut out 1 of 2 daily photoperiods



A few plants are pretty unhappy about the lack of ferts (I'm looking at you myrio!), but overall I was shocked at how well everything did.

My foreground filled in!! Super chuffed!! :grin2:
 

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It's really amazing the extra PITA factor a 6th bulb makes in a 120. I've considered it for a while, just so I can play with more colors bulb wise, but I can't get myself to do it. With 5 it's still pretty tame, not quite at the red-line, but that extra bulb seems to just push it right over the edge. Interesting reading how you dealt with it. Beautiful tank! Would love to get there one day!
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
I decided to test my NO3 and PO4 levels before I did anything with the tank. More out of curiosity than anything scientific, since I don't really test my levels all that regularly.

The day before I left I was pretty sure I gave the tank a full week of NPK and micro dosing (30ppm NO3, 8ppm PO4, no K in my dose as it all comes from remineralizing my RO water, 0.6ppm Fe), but I didn't write anything down in my IRL tank journal, so I can't really be sure haha.

Results:

NO3 (using API liquid test because I ran out of reagent in my Salifert test :( ) = ~40ppm
PO4 = >2ppm

I found the results fairly surprising. I expected both to have bottomed out, or at least be pretty close to nil. I really wasn't expecting them to both be so high. But I guess since I cut the photoperiod in half it kinda makes sense that my levels after 2 weeks are similar to what they usually are after 1 normal week.

The really interesting/confusing thing is how the plants have reacted. Some that are normally weeds have stunted and are turning funny colours (myrio tops have gone white and gymnocoronis new growth is coming in burgundy), while others have never looked better/more free of algae (helferi, rotala bonsai, ar mini, s. repens - all foreground plants interestingly). Since my macros are still pretty high I think maybe my micros have bottomed out?

In the end I think it's just more confirmation that when you're running close to the bleeding edge, what makes one plant happy can make another plant pretty unhappy.

Reminds me of the way zones are used with terrestrial plants. No farmer/gardener worth their salt would ever try and grow all plants under the same conditions, yet we aquatic gardeners seem to think it's (easily?) doable.
 
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