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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am trying to decide between a :


Beamswork DA 120 LED Pent 48" 0.50W Aquarium Light Marine FOWLR Cichlid 120cm 160x 0.50W


Dimensions - 48.25” x 5.25” x 1.25”
Brackets add 1.00" in height
Includes 120 LEDs
5200 lumen
Super energy efficient 0.50 watt LEDs
104x 10000K LEDs
16x Actinic 460nm LEDs


and


Beamswork HE 120 48" LED Aquarium Light 63x 1W


Dimensions - 48.00” x 3.75” x 1.25”
Brackets add 0.50" in height
Includes 63x 1 watt LEDs
Includes 54x 6500K, 9x Actinic LEDs
5500 Lumen


I am leaning towards the 10000K because more bulbs are better? This is for a 24" high low-tech tank planted with low/med plants.
 

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I am leaning towards the 10000K because more bulbs are better?
Better for what? Second light is brighter, will have better light penetration for deep tank. It'll also give you more naturally looking colors - with 10000K plants will have a washed out look.

One more very interesting new option is this VivaGrow light:
Looks like Beamswork Razor series but has RGB LEDs, remote control, 24/7 mode, dimmable (?) etc. - like Finnex 24/7 but cheaper. You can buy it and then share your experiences with everybody. :grin2:
 

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Well more bulbs aren't necessarily better. Besides that most will depend on what "color scheme" you prefer..
10000K diodes will be blue white.. 6500k diodes appear to some as yellow white.. I always find that surprising since it is usually not what I "see"...
Just put some 5500k bulbs in my house and "appear" decidedly green/blue.. got a 4300k shop light LED and it is as neutral as one can get..
YMMV.. Apparently different manuf. use diff. witches brew of phosphors to make a certain color temp, giving us such fun variety in life (sarcasm).

The .5W light is also available (usually) in the 6500k variety..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Better for what? Second light is brighter, will have better light penetration for deep tank. It'll also give you more naturally looking colors - with 10000K plants will have a washed out look.

One more very interesting new option is this VivaGrow light: Amazon.com : VivaGrow DN RGB LED Aquarium Light Freshwater Plant 24/7 Remote Automation (120cm - 48") : Pet Supplies
Looks like Beamswork Razor series but has RGB LEDs, remote control, 24/7 mode, dimmable (?) etc. - like Finnex 24/7 but cheaper. You can buy it and then share your experiences with everybody. :grin2:

Thanks so much for your opinion. This is my first serious attempt at a planted tank and there is a lot of technical stuff I need to get a better grasp on. I had been looking at that vivagrow, but I think I can get that second light for under $45, so price is going to win I think.

Bump:
Well more bulbs aren't necessarily better. Besides that most will depend on what "color scheme" you prefer..
10000K diodes will be blue white.. 6500k diodes appear to some as yellow white.. I always find that surprising since it is usually not what I "see"...
Just put some 5500k bulbs in my house and "appear" decidedly green/blue.. got a 4300k shop light LED and it is as neutral as one can get..
YMMV.. Apparently different manuf. use diff. witches brew of phosphors to make a certain color temp, giving us such fun variety in life (sarcasm).

The .5W light is also available (usually) in the 6500k variety..


Can you tell me more about the .5W vs 1W? Is the difference just power usage?
 

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Can you tell me more about the .5W vs 1W? Is the difference just power usage?
That question is more complicated than it seems..
first on one level it is like a 30W vs 60W "bulb"
It is output increase over power usage..
W/ LED's it is not quite that simple..
LED's have different effeciencies AND sometimes how they are "fed" leads to differences as well

So if the diode efficiency is the same.. say 100 l/w and they are driven at their "rated" wattage a 1W LED will be 2X the output of a .5W LED..
2 @1/2W =1W in lumen (photon) output.
But say a 1W Led has only 50% of the efficiency (50 lumens/watt, which is not that uncommon btw) than a new .5W LED.. well you are at 1:1 in output..

Unfortunately it is never as simple as it seems.
add say running 1W LED at only 1/2W of power vs running .5W Led at full half watt of power, well you get the picture.
Even a watt rating doesn't help w/ common "constant voltage" Led's because you can change the effective power getting to the diode by changing the end resistor rating..thus impacting the output..
That is why measuring PAR takes out all the "complications" of specifications and engineering..
 
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