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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First off i would just like to say that this will be my first ever planted tank, and yes i said first and most would call me crazy but i believe that with enough research that anything is possible on the first try. Its high tech with the following products being used
Pages-
1-7= mainly tank build, hardscape, thoughts on plants etc...
8-?= the planting begins and updates to come!




Plant list-

AR Mini
Ludwigia sp red
Eleocharis sp. mini
ammania Bondsai(True Rotala)
S repens
Hydrocotyle tripartita "japan"
Anubias, Petite Nana( Anubias Bareri var. nana petite)
Hygrophila Pinnatifida
Pogostemon erectus
Pogostemon helferi
Cyperus Helferi
Mini Fissidens
Mini pellia




Lighting- 3 Kessil a160we tuna sun led lights with controller and gooseneck.
CO2-Aquatek dual-gauge pressure regulator 10 pound tank Doaqua diffuser +bubble counter
filter-Hydor 450 (75-125gallons) And a eheim skim 350
heater- 2 Cobalt neo-therm 100watt heater
substrates- ADA power sand M,1 9L ada aqua soil powder and 4 to 5 9L regular
additives- ada bacter 100, clear super, tourmaline bc. ATM Colony
test kit- api master test kit and gh/kh test kit
hard scape- 50year old cedar stump(fish safe since it has no more sap).
water conditione- PRIME
Ferts- EI Dosing
Now first i will start by showing you my stand build. The dimensions are 38"W X 20"D X 35"T
SO sadly i did not start taking picture till after i had the rap on the stand because i didnt think lol BUt here they are.
I started my using 2x4 and basicully followed Joeys video on youtube. The plywood rap is 3/4inch birch. I used small nails and also wood glue to attach the plywood rap.

Next i added the trim to the stand and nailed and wood glued them into place.

Following that i then used a nice Dark walnut Wood stain and did about two coats using a good fine haired brush and after about 2min i then rubbed all the excess stain off the wood with cloth. Dont mind the tank that is a 50gallon which i am not using for this project =)

After waiting about 1day for the stain to fully cure and seep into the wood i then used a Semi-gloss Polyurethane spray can and gave the stand 3full coats which took about 3bottles to do. And this is the final product. It took me a total of i would say 4days from start to finish doing about 1hour of work a day on it maybe 2hours for two of the days.

After completing the stand building i had in mind what i was looking for in this aquascape and was able to ind a great old peace of red cedar that my grandma had found about 45to50years ago in a spring in florida.

After doing some measurement i ended up taking a little bit off the from and sides of the driftwood to make it fit into the tank. As you can see on the right side and the front.


here is the 60gallon build
I ended up buying my glass from glasscages and i must say it came in very well rapped in cardboard and no scratches. I had the glass flat polished as well. Dimensions for the build are 37 3/4" W x 19 3/4" D x 20" T. All the glass panels are 10mm thick low iron, except the bottom which is 1/2inch thick and is reg glass.

I set it up using pipe clamps, corner claps, MDF as my platform, and zip ties as my spacer because i am using the injection method since its less likely to have air bubbles IMO

After setting it up i then put 2tacks of silicone on each side and 3tacks on the back and front bottom. Using RTV 108 Silicone

This is all i have for now but will add onto the thread as it comes along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Today i injected silicone into all the sides and came out pretty good with only 2 very small air bubble not big enough to really see or worry about though. Thursday i will do the bottom then i will let it cure for about 10-15days before water testing it for a full day.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got all the clamps from harbor freight. the corner clamps i believe were about $3 a pop and the pipe claps were $5 a pop and the two long pipe clamps were like $10 a pop. I actually used this video to kinda get me going on how to do it but didnt really do it the same way because he put alot of tacks down when in reality silicone is a very strong material so if you are just using it to old the glass in place you would really only need about 2 tacks a side and maybe 3 at most for the bottom. Also as you will see in the video he was not very clean and did not pre-tape everthing to insure straight lines and clean edges. Use this link and i believe on the first page i have Two videos on how it is done, and those are the videos i used for the tank build. I also have a video and picture on how i get rid of old silicone on glass.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=763002
Also if you end up doing this method remeber you have to take into consideration the gap which would be 1/16in on each end for the silicone to go into which i used zipties for, so since this is the case you cant go out and make the glass normal dimensions, for example if i ordered glass from a shop and got each peace at, (2) 37 3/4inch x 20 1/2inch at 10mm thick(front and back pane, (2) 20 1/2 x 19in 10mm and one 37x19 at 1/2inch thick i would have to take the bottom pane which is 37x19 and shrink it to 36 7/8inch x19in to fit inside the side panes without pushing the left and right pane farther out than the front and back pane.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just a little update no pictures as I am out of town right now. Yesterday I finished the tank off by siliconing the bottom. Came out pretty good only a few bubbles overall which I'm not really worried about since I'm using good silicone and because there in the center of the seam making it the safest spot to have a bubble. Still kinda bummed though that it got bubbles, but hey I'm not an expert and I tried so that's all that counts and I'm sure it will be just fine :) I plan on water testing it I think by next weekend to give it a good 5-7 days to finish curing.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I am now done with the whole tank as of last Friday and now am just waiting the 7days before I water test it. Kinda bummed that it got a few air bubbles but good thing is that there in the center of the silicone seal making It safe. Strange thing is that two of them are a very thin strip that goes down the direct center of the silicone seam making me think that the outside edges cured faster causing it to pull on both sides creating the bubble because I cleaned everything with acetone and use rubber gloves for everything. It should be fine as it was a .5inch deal with a 2/16inch thickness of silicone so plenty strong and glad it's in the middle. Here is a picture of the overall tank and the air bubble I'm talking about



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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
because of the airbubbles i will be doing a week long water test to insure the strength of the bead. Also if any airbubbles show up during the water test i will be redoing the tank but i do not think that will be the case. =) Things are really starting to move fast now and i am getting eager to put the substrate and driftwood in and then plan the scape of plants XD
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
finally setup my quarantine tank for new fish arrivals! Cycling it with ammonia from ace keeping it at 3-4ppm and then ill do a water change when the nitrite spike occurs. Also as you can see there is some extra bio media in the aquarium that i am going to keep in there until the 60 gallon is setup, to try and kick start the cycle. This tank is not going to be my quarantine tank for sick fish but will be a tank for new fish until i feel that they are healthy enough to be brought into the 60g
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks :). Here is a picture of a teak wood box I made for the canister filter to fit in since I do not have doors on my stand in going to hide the stuff with nice wood boxes. This box is about 3:4 the size of the canister filter to allow the tubes to have no problem moving around and to make it easier to take my t out. I also water proofed it on the inside so that if the canister ever has a leak it will be ok to drop water



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