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Either one would work, but the 'force flow through each foam' is better. Just make sure you have enough room above that first baffle for the inevitable clogging. (3/4" is tons, but calculate please)

Huge disagree about the BeanAnimal statement. Dats crazy talk for another thread.

The statement about power outage test is valid, but if he's using a similar internal/external overflow box, the water level in the sump would only rise by an inch or so at most. (do calculate this, please!)


I threw the idea around of doing a writeup on freshwater sump theories, but I really have no credentials to do so. I think it could probably go under three headings:
  • slow growth/low maintenance - you want a tank, but don't want the work - water changes shmwater changes, plants are happy, fish are happy - you need lots of plants and water
  • something in between - ya, you'll probably use a canister - move along
  • fast growth/high maintenance - you are an advanced hobbyist - breeding, dosing, fast plant growth and water quality perfection for dem fry - lots of plants and an automated WC system

I tend to generalize. But it's probably something that'd be helpful, what with the lack of beginner info out there.
 

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So I learned a valuable lesson tonight. The Eschopps filter bag holder does not sit very well on the side of the tank when you have the flex pipe attached to it. So I would recommend you hard pipe your inlet with PVC or cut the flex pipe to proper length.

So if Lowe's doesn't have a flex elbow for PVC then I will have to get rid of bag holder and just sit the PVC pipe in my filter chamber.
 

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you are better off without the filter sock anyways. you'll just end up having to clean/swap it out a couple times a week because it traps so much. if you dont it will end up being a nitrate factory.

in my opinion anyways.
 

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you are better off without the filter sock anyways. you'll just end up having to clean/swap it out a couple times a week because it traps so much. if you dont it will end up being a nitrate factory.

in my opinion anyways.
I change mine about once a week. IME, they don't get clogged that fast (especially when compared to saltwater setups).
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Bought poret foam from Swiss tropicals. They are a little expensive, but I reckon it will last for a long time to come. Got foam for the last design posted with the foam oriented horizontally, so the water flows vertically. Ill post pics once I get the whole sump setup. I used muriatic acid to clean out the calcium deposits on the glass this weekend. It worked okay. Still a little hazy but not as bad. Gave it several good rinses. Now I will let it sit for a few days and then take a razor blade to te silicone to reseal the internals. And then I'll add in the baffles.
 

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Let me know how the poret foam works. I am debating on purchasing 30ppi foam for the intake section and then 10 or 20 ppi foam as a barrier between my refugium and return pump. The 30ppi foam in the intake will never be rinsed save for twice a year (maybe). The barrier foam will need to be rinsed once the water flow becomes restricted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Well for my sump design, I reckon that I'll need to be rinsing the 30 ppi foam alot more than the other foam, as 30 ppi is much finer and will get clogged much faster. Just make sure that however you design it, you allow room for water to flow on top of the sponge in the worst case scenario of complete clog.

The foam came in by the way, and it really is high quality stuff. Very sturdy, can easily stand on its own in a sump. Although supports won't hurt. Any one have any tips on cutting poret foam to size neatly?

Joshua
 

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use a utility knife with a brand new blade to cut it. Any power tool is likely to shred the edges.

As you have seen from my photos, my intake is a completely sealed chamber causing the water to flow over the edges. I made a basket for my filter sock to sit in, once the water exits the filter sock, it will come in contact with the poret foam along the interior sides. No matter how clogged the foam gets, water will still overflow the sides down into the refugium area as it was designed.
 

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I've been using Poret foam "Walls" in my 20g sump on my 75g planted cichlid tank for a while now. 600+ gph flow through a 10ppi -> 20 ppi -> 30 ppi and back to the tank. I clean the 10 ppi about three times a year, and the 20 ppi & 30 ppi once or twice a year.
 
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