Been waiting for this tank journal lol. Your description and specs are so detailed good job and good write up!
60 Gallon heavy planted high tech co2 build
So I am pretty new to the planted tank hobby. I had a tank with no plants for about 6 months. Then about a month ago I got a great plant package that included a ton of different easy low/medium light plants. This is all in a 60 gallon tank. I will give the specs of what I have and then what is on the way so what it will have. Thanks to others especially the mod on here (Darkblade48) I have learned a ton that made what I thought going high tech would be very hard to not hard at all. Now on to the list.
60 gallon high (48"x12"x24")
stock includes 12 Glowfish tetras, 2 glowfish danios, one 9" Pleco, 3 cory cats, 10 Clown loaches(small)(I know will get large and will have a 125 gallon for them in a few months), and 4 amano shrimp.
Plants include
1xAnubias lanceolata
1xAnubias barteri
2xEchinodorus "Red Rubin Narrow
2xEchinodorus argentinensis
5xCryptocoryne wendtii
2xMicrosorium pteropus
5x Hygrophila lancea
10xBacopa monnierii
6xEgeria (Anacharis) densa
6xRotala indica
6xLudwigia repens
5xHygrophila salicifolia
I know it seems like a lot but many are just stems. I have been using the entire Seachem flourish line including excel. Very good stuff and easy for someone like me. May end up going with the "other" cheaper route down the road but I have a good schedule going with these and the results are pretty good so far.
For my filtration I have a Fluval FX4 and a AquaClear 70 HOB. I like having two filters for the fact of staggering out maintenance if one stops working I am still good. I love the fluval line of filters. The only chemical filtration I use is Purigen. I did get a thing of the new chemi-pure green that is meant for planted tanks but have not used it yet as I really do not have the need that I can tell. I keep the HOB filter on low trickle setting and the FX4 not pointed at very top to not disrupt the top as much for obvious reasons. I also have a Jaebo PP8 Powerhead that I turn on first thing in the morning when dosing the ferts to make sure its all mixed good in the tank for all to eat. I keep it on the lowest setting when it runs. Usually only run it for about an hour a day.
I have the Finnex Planted 24/7 light and love that light very much. But because I have a deep tank from the top of substrate to light is 23" so I keep it on max setting for 10 hours during the day instead of the non programmable 24/7 cycle. According to a great review by Matt on here I am most likely getting between 30-40 par at the bottom but not 100% certain. Like many others that is my only complaint about the light is not being able to program the 24/7 cycle. Other than that its an awesome light and seems to be good enough light for my low/medium plants at the moment. I have a question in regards to my light but will ask at the end.
So now on to my pressurized co2 build that I will be installing this weekend. I will first say I have done a TON of research in regards to it as at first it seemed kind of scary. Just heard horror stories of some that have something fail to find their stock dead in the morning. I do not want to do this so I wanted to make sure I have all info and can be as prepared as possible to prevent that. So anyone that has suggestions feel free. I wanted to get a good reliable system so I searched around a lot. I will list below what my system will consist of
Pressurized CO2 system
I wanted this to be as clean and hidden as possible so below is what I went with.
--Fluval 206(dedicated just for the co2 with inline reactor). It will include no media, not even mechanical. Again its solely for the co2. I got the idea from a few people and think its a wonderful idea if you can fork up the $ for it. I was originally going to tap into my existing fluval fx4 but the concern was going from 1" down to 5/8". Why restrict the flow of existing filter. Much better in my mind to run a dedicated system just for the co2. I will place the 206 output right behind my existing FX4 out to maximize the co2 flow throughout the entire tank.
--DiCi CO2 Regulator Aquarium Mini Stainless Steel Dual Gauge Display Bubble Counter and Check Valve w/ Solenoid. Was a hard choice between this and the Aquatek but many great reviews about this one sold me on it. This will be used with a 5lb tank of course. Was almost going to go the Paintball tank route due to space limitations but did not have to after all. I have 22" high of space to work with in my cabinet and thought that a 5lb bottle with the regulator on it would be too high. However it seems I will have a couple inches to spare after all. What I like about this regulator/solenoid is it comes with the bubble counter on it. And a one way valve in the bottom of the bubble counter. Seems high quality. Are any of you running this one?
--Sera Flore Active CO2 Reactor 500. I wanted the least amount of bubbles in the tank so after much research this one seems to be better than the other atomizers and inline diffuses out there. Also this one will be a perfect fit for the 5/8 rubber hose attachments this will hook up to on the Fluval 206. Win win in my book. Also seems from reviews MUCH more durable than the other brand one out there. Did not want to build my own but I knew that was an option.
That is the heart of the system and I will list the other little stuff wanting to make sure I am as prepared for the build this weekend as possible.
-AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing 16 Feet. May just use existing standard airline tubing but got just in case any leaks. I know the co2 loss is minimal thanks to Darkblade. If the Aquatek is too hard to work with and will not bend where I need it to then I will use the standard airline tubing as its much easier to work with.
-Glass Co2 Drop Checker With 4dKH Drop Checker Solution. Do not want to make up my own solution so this will work. Needed something reliable. When it comes to the entire co2 system this is the only way one would be able to tell I am evening running pressurized co2. Again I wanted everything as clean and hidden as possible.
-CO2 Tank Leak Stopper. Amyzon has it. Do any of you use it to go between the tank and regulator? I wanted to be sure as good as seal possible and in case any issues this should work.
-Silocone Rubber self fusing tape to use connecting reactor to output of the Fluval 206. And wherever else may be needed.
-Pipe sealant tape. No explanation needed.
-5lb bottle clamp to mount the bottle in the cabinet beneath the tank. Would not want it to tip at all.
-Adjustable hose clamps. No explanation needed.
-Spare Fluval Rubber Adapter for Ribbed Hosing- This will be used again to attach the Reactor to the out of the filter. the 5/8" matches exactly with the Reactor and will connect directly up to my 1/2 ribbed hosing on the out.
I also ended up getting the SENEYE Reef Aquarium Monitor and Par Meter more for the PAR capability. That will not be here for another couple weeks though. Reason is I want an exact measurement of par my lights are getting at the bottom of my tank. Have not seen any readings out there showing the par from this light that far down. I guess between 30-40 but that is just a guess. I want an exact. Ready my thread I created here to show the different light readings I got using the Seneye Par meter. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...24-7-planted-par-lux-kelvin-pur-readings.html
So that is it everyone this is my very first build and I will update when I get it installed this weekend. Please respond with any suggestions or lessons learned. I know this is a long post and hope you enjoy. I know I have not been able to sleep well at night while waiting for everything to come in. Saturday is the day
60 gallon high (48"x12"x24")
stock includes 12 Glowfish tetras, 2 glowfish danios, one 9" Pleco, 3 cory cats, 10 Clown loaches(small)(I know will get large and will have a 125 gallon for them in a few months), and 4 amano shrimp.
Plants include
1xAnubias lanceolata
1xAnubias barteri
2xEchinodorus "Red Rubin Narrow
2xEchinodorus argentinensis
5xCryptocoryne wendtii
2xMicrosorium pteropus
5x Hygrophila lancea
10xBacopa monnierii
6xEgeria (Anacharis) densa
6xRotala indica
6xLudwigia repens
5xHygrophila salicifolia
I know it seems like a lot but many are just stems. I have been using the entire Seachem flourish line including excel. Very good stuff and easy for someone like me. May end up going with the "other" cheaper route down the road but I have a good schedule going with these and the results are pretty good so far.
For my filtration I have a Fluval FX4 and a AquaClear 70 HOB. I like having two filters for the fact of staggering out maintenance if one stops working I am still good. I love the fluval line of filters. The only chemical filtration I use is Purigen. I did get a thing of the new chemi-pure green that is meant for planted tanks but have not used it yet as I really do not have the need that I can tell. I keep the HOB filter on low trickle setting and the FX4 not pointed at very top to not disrupt the top as much for obvious reasons. I also have a Jaebo PP8 Powerhead that I turn on first thing in the morning when dosing the ferts to make sure its all mixed good in the tank for all to eat. I keep it on the lowest setting when it runs. Usually only run it for about an hour a day.
I have the Finnex Planted 24/7 light and love that light very much. But because I have a deep tank from the top of substrate to light is 23" so I keep it on max setting for 10 hours during the day instead of the non programmable 24/7 cycle. According to a great review by Matt on here I am most likely getting between 30-40 par at the bottom but not 100% certain. Like many others that is my only complaint about the light is not being able to program the 24/7 cycle. Other than that its an awesome light and seems to be good enough light for my low/medium plants at the moment. I have a question in regards to my light but will ask at the end.
So now on to my pressurized co2 build that I will be installing this weekend. I will first say I have done a TON of research in regards to it as at first it seemed kind of scary. Just heard horror stories of some that have something fail to find their stock dead in the morning. I do not want to do this so I wanted to make sure I have all info and can be as prepared as possible to prevent that. So anyone that has suggestions feel free. I wanted to get a good reliable system so I searched around a lot. I will list below what my system will consist of
Pressurized CO2 system
I wanted this to be as clean and hidden as possible so below is what I went with.
--Fluval 206(dedicated just for the co2 with inline reactor). It will include no media, not even mechanical. Again its solely for the co2. I got the idea from a few people and think its a wonderful idea if you can fork up the $ for it. I was originally going to tap into my existing fluval fx4 but the concern was going from 1" down to 5/8". Why restrict the flow of existing filter. Much better in my mind to run a dedicated system just for the co2. I will place the 206 output right behind my existing FX4 out to maximize the co2 flow throughout the entire tank.
--DiCi CO2 Regulator Aquarium Mini Stainless Steel Dual Gauge Display Bubble Counter and Check Valve w/ Solenoid. Was a hard choice between this and the Aquatek but many great reviews about this one sold me on it. This will be used with a 5lb tank of course. Was almost going to go the Paintball tank route due to space limitations but did not have to after all. I have 22" high of space to work with in my cabinet and thought that a 5lb bottle with the regulator on it would be too high. However it seems I will have a couple inches to spare after all. What I like about this regulator/solenoid is it comes with the bubble counter on it. And a one way valve in the bottom of the bubble counter. Seems high quality. Are any of you running this one?
--Sera Flore Active CO2 Reactor 500. I wanted the least amount of bubbles in the tank so after much research this one seems to be better than the other atomizers and inline diffuses out there. Also this one will be a perfect fit for the 5/8 rubber hose attachments this will hook up to on the Fluval 206. Win win in my book. Also seems from reviews MUCH more durable than the other brand one out there. Did not want to build my own but I knew that was an option.
That is the heart of the system and I will list the other little stuff wanting to make sure I am as prepared for the build this weekend as possible.
-AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing 16 Feet. May just use existing standard airline tubing but got just in case any leaks. I know the co2 loss is minimal thanks to Darkblade. If the Aquatek is too hard to work with and will not bend where I need it to then I will use the standard airline tubing as its much easier to work with.
-Glass Co2 Drop Checker With 4dKH Drop Checker Solution. Do not want to make up my own solution so this will work. Needed something reliable. When it comes to the entire co2 system this is the only way one would be able to tell I am evening running pressurized co2. Again I wanted everything as clean and hidden as possible.
-CO2 Tank Leak Stopper. Amyzon has it. Do any of you use it to go between the tank and regulator? I wanted to be sure as good as seal possible and in case any issues this should work.
-Silocone Rubber self fusing tape to use connecting reactor to output of the Fluval 206. And wherever else may be needed.
-Pipe sealant tape. No explanation needed.
-5lb bottle clamp to mount the bottle in the cabinet beneath the tank. Would not want it to tip at all.
-Adjustable hose clamps. No explanation needed.
-Spare Fluval Rubber Adapter for Ribbed Hosing- This will be used again to attach the Reactor to the out of the filter. the 5/8" matches exactly with the Reactor and will connect directly up to my 1/2 ribbed hosing on the out.
I also ended up getting the SENEYE Reef Aquarium Monitor and Par Meter more for the PAR capability. That will not be here for another couple weeks though. Reason is I want an exact measurement of par my lights are getting at the bottom of my tank. Have not seen any readings out there showing the par from this light that far down. I guess between 30-40 but that is just a guess. I want an exact. Ready my thread I created here to show the different light readings I got using the Seneye Par meter. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...24-7-planted-par-lux-kelvin-pur-readings.html
So that is it everyone this is my very first build and I will update when I get it installed this weekend. Please respond with any suggestions or lessons learned. I know this is a long post and hope you enjoy. I know I have not been able to sleep well at night while waiting for everything to come in. Saturday is the day
1 - 20 of 121 Posts
So I decided to create a new tank journal build because my original one would not let me take off the poll. So I have been slacking as far as keeping up with my journal. Basically have not updated it for a very long time. So here we are I have some catching up to do as far as what has happened.
I have changed from the Seachem line to NilocG EI based ferts. I got the pre mixed micro/macro packets as to keep it simple for me for now. I just started 2 days ago so cannot give a yay or nay as far as results yet. What I have noticed is it has dramatically brought up my phosphate level. Will do more testing. I know it is probably a bit much but since its my journal I can. I am going to post my water parameters I have been testing since I got my co2 installed 3 weeks ago.
Tap water
Kh 50ppm 2.8
GH 64ppm 3.59
3/19
Kh 140ppm 7.83
Gh 200 11.20
Ph 6.62
3/20
KH 130ppm 7.27
GH 185ppm 10.36
PH 6.78
3/21
KH 160ppm 8.96
GH 200ppm 11.2
PH 7.65
3/21 night 6:00pm
KH 120ppm 6.72
GH 200ppm 11.2
PH 6.98
3/22 7:00am
KH 140ppm 7.83
GH 200ppm 11.20
PH 7.10
3/23
KH 140ppm 7.83
GH 220 ppm 12.3
PH 7.14
3/24
KH 140ppm 7.83
GH 220 ppm 12.3
PH 6.84
3/24 after water change
KH 100ppm 5.6
GH 160ppm 8.96
PH 6.54
3/25
KH 120ppm 6.72
GH 170ppm 9.5
PH 6.61
3/25 after water change
KH 80ppm 4.5
GH 120ppm 6.72
PH 6.56
3/26 before co2
KH 85ppm 4.75
GH 160ppm 8.96
PH 7.40
Phosphate .5ppm
Ammonia .050ppm
Nitrate 10ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
3/27 before co2
KH 85ppm 4.75
GH 160ppm 8.96
PH 7.6
Phosphate .5ppm
Nitrate 0ppm(test was wrong)
3/26 3:00 pm
KH 85ppm 4.75
GH 120ppm 6.72
PH 6.91
3/27 after co2 off
KH 100ppm 5.6
GH 140ppm 7.83
PH 7.0
Phosphate .25ppm
Nitrate 0ppm(test was wrong)
Ammonia .050
3/28 after 50 wc
KH 90ppm 5.0
GH 120ppm 6.72
PH 6.7
Phosphate .5ppm
Nitrate 20ppm
Ammonia .054
3/28 8:00am
KH 140ppm 7.83
GH 140ppm 7.83
PH 7.0 ppm
Phosphate .5ppm
Nitrate 20ppm
Ammonia 0.54
3/28 3:00pm after gh booster
KH 120ppm 6.72
GH 140ppm 7.83
PH 6.8
Phosphate .5ppm
Nitrate 20ppm
Ammonia 0.54
Started NilocG EI dosing(Pre mixed Packets)
3/29
KH 160ppm 8.95
GH 140ppm 7.83
PH 7.0
Nitrate 20ppm
Phosphate 5ppm
3/30
KH 180ppm 10.0
GH 160ppm 9.0
PH 7.6
Nitrate 20ppm
Phosphate 5ppm
3/30 at 3:40pm
PH 6.8
3/30 6:30pm
PH 7.2
GH 160ppm 9.0
KH 180ppm 10.0
Nitrate 40ppm
Phosphate 4ppm
Ammonia 0.046
4/1
PH 8
GH 160ppm 9.0
KH 180ppm 10.0
4/1 5:30pm
PH 6.8
GH 160ppm 9.0
KH 200ppm 11.2
Nitrate 40ppm
Phosphate 5ppm
4/1 50% water change
PH
GH
KH
Nitrate 30ppm
Phosphate
4/2 50% water change
PH 7.4
GH 120ppm 6.72
KH 100ppm 5.6
Nitrate 20ppm
Phosphate 3ppm
4/2 5:30pm
PH 6.6
GH 100ppm 5.6
KH 100ppm 5.6
8pm
Ph 7.3
Nitrate
4/3 1pm
PH 6.6
GH 120ppm 6.72
KH 120ppm 6.72
Nitrate 20ppm
Ammonia 0
Bump:
I have also since added an inline heater. My original glass finnex had broke inside the tank. Glass broke from getting too hot. Good thing I was there to notice before it did too much damage as it was leaking inside the tank. The inline heater I added was a Hydor 200w. Love it very much as it keeps the temperature more consistent than my previous heater I had.
I have changed from the Seachem line to NilocG EI based ferts. I got the pre mixed micro/macro packets as to keep it simple for me for now. I just started 2 days ago so cannot give a yay or nay as far as results yet. What I have noticed is it has dramatically brought up my phosphate level. Will do more testing. I know it is probably a bit much but since its my journal I can. I am going to post my water parameters I have been testing since I got my co2 installed 3 weeks ago.
Tap water
Kh 50ppm 2.8
GH 64ppm 3.59
3/19
Kh 140ppm 7.83
Gh 200 11.20
Ph 6.62
3/20
KH 130ppm 7.27
GH 185ppm 10.36
PH 6.78
3/21
KH 160ppm 8.96
GH 200ppm 11.2
PH 7.65
3/21 night 6:00pm
KH 120ppm 6.72
GH 200ppm 11.2
PH 6.98
3/22 7:00am
KH 140ppm 7.83
GH 200ppm 11.20
PH 7.10
3/23
KH 140ppm 7.83
GH 220 ppm 12.3
PH 7.14
3/24
KH 140ppm 7.83
GH 220 ppm 12.3
PH 6.84
3/24 after water change
KH 100ppm 5.6
GH 160ppm 8.96
PH 6.54
3/25
KH 120ppm 6.72
GH 170ppm 9.5
PH 6.61
3/25 after water change
KH 80ppm 4.5
GH 120ppm 6.72
PH 6.56
3/26 before co2
KH 85ppm 4.75
GH 160ppm 8.96
PH 7.40
Phosphate .5ppm
Ammonia .050ppm
Nitrate 10ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
3/27 before co2
KH 85ppm 4.75
GH 160ppm 8.96
PH 7.6
Phosphate .5ppm
Nitrate 0ppm(test was wrong)
3/26 3:00 pm
KH 85ppm 4.75
GH 120ppm 6.72
PH 6.91
3/27 after co2 off
KH 100ppm 5.6
GH 140ppm 7.83
PH 7.0
Phosphate .25ppm
Nitrate 0ppm(test was wrong)
Ammonia .050
3/28 after 50 wc
KH 90ppm 5.0
GH 120ppm 6.72
PH 6.7
Phosphate .5ppm
Nitrate 20ppm
Ammonia .054
3/28 8:00am
KH 140ppm 7.83
GH 140ppm 7.83
PH 7.0 ppm
Phosphate .5ppm
Nitrate 20ppm
Ammonia 0.54
3/28 3:00pm after gh booster
KH 120ppm 6.72
GH 140ppm 7.83
PH 6.8
Phosphate .5ppm
Nitrate 20ppm
Ammonia 0.54
Started NilocG EI dosing(Pre mixed Packets)
3/29
KH 160ppm 8.95
GH 140ppm 7.83
PH 7.0
Nitrate 20ppm
Phosphate 5ppm
3/30
KH 180ppm 10.0
GH 160ppm 9.0
PH 7.6
Nitrate 20ppm
Phosphate 5ppm
3/30 at 3:40pm
PH 6.8
3/30 6:30pm
PH 7.2
GH 160ppm 9.0
KH 180ppm 10.0
Nitrate 40ppm
Phosphate 4ppm
Ammonia 0.046
4/1
PH 8
GH 160ppm 9.0
KH 180ppm 10.0
4/1 5:30pm
PH 6.8
GH 160ppm 9.0
KH 200ppm 11.2
Nitrate 40ppm
Phosphate 5ppm
4/1 50% water change
PH
GH
KH
Nitrate 30ppm
Phosphate
4/2 50% water change
PH 7.4
GH 120ppm 6.72
KH 100ppm 5.6
Nitrate 20ppm
Phosphate 3ppm
4/2 5:30pm
PH 6.6
GH 100ppm 5.6
KH 100ppm 5.6
8pm
Ph 7.3
Nitrate
4/3 1pm
PH 6.6
GH 120ppm 6.72
KH 120ppm 6.72
Nitrate 20ppm
Ammonia 0
Bump:
The pics will come as soon as I can figure out how to post them from my pc without them being tilted... Tip??Been waiting for this tank journal lol. Your description and specs are so detailed good job and good write up!
I have also since added an inline heater. My original glass finnex had broke inside the tank. Glass broke from getting too hot. Good thing I was there to notice before it did too much damage as it was leaking inside the tank. The inline heater I added was a Hydor 200w. Love it very much as it keeps the temperature more consistent than my previous heater I had.
WWW.photobucket.com
That's what I use, and it allows you to edit and separately save edited pictures. Also, free.
That's what I use, and it allows you to edit and separately save edited pictures. Also, free.
Your tank doesn't exist without pictures on this thread 
. Nice write-up and looking forward to seeing them.
. Nice write-up and looking forward to seeing them.
was... was that a background I just saw... you failed me clown lol!
Looks really nice. I'm not a good photographer by any means, but try taking them after dark with the tank lights on and the house lights off (flash off as well).
Will do. Will give it a shot tonight. Ya just too much glare everywhere during the day.Looks really nice. I'm not a good photographer by any means, but try taking them after dark with the tank lights on and the house lights off (flash off as well).
2
So since the original stocking I have 3 amano shrimp and 2 Kuhli loackes. One of the Kuhli loaches passed away though. I am thinking it was when I planted my root tabs and caused the amonia to spike for a bit. The other one made it along with the shrimp so maybe he wasnt doing good already. I have only had them/him 5 days so not sure. I will get him a couple partners so he has some buddies. Probably this weekend since parameters seem to be good now.
![]()
Bump: I really like this Seneye Monitor. So besides the par meter which is the main reason I got it, it also monitors PH and a number of other things like temperature. So since I got the hydor inline heater the temperature has been more consistent.
Bump: I really like this Seneye Monitor. So besides the par meter which is the main reason I got it, it also monitors PH and a number of other things like temperature. So since I got the hydor inline heater the temperature has been more consistent.
That's a fantastic effort to get everything written down as a journal! Keep it up!
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
That's a fantastic effort to get everything written down as a journal! Keep it up!
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Thanks. I have been jotting everything down as notes on my phone. Was just a matter dumping all data to my journal. Now to keep it up.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Love the colors of the fish!
Trying to come up with a plan for the plants. Look too cluttered. Especially on right. And the repens keep growing tall and falling over. Will probably try to fix tomorrow during water change. Use to not be so cluttered but they grew super fast when I got the co2 and out of control.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Picked up a good cleaning crew today. Have a few spots(not too many) of Brown algae that want taken care of. Ended up getting 5 Siamese Algae Eaters, one Chinease Algae eater, and two otto cats. These guys should definately help and they should be plenty fed for a little.
Ended up getting a gallon of metricide to replace my almost gone Seachem excel. Will add 300ml of metricide 14 to 200ml or ro water for same strength as excel. Got a couple spare NilocG 500ml dosing bottles, one for the metricide mixture and the other one for the Iron Chelate I also got from NilocG.
Also picked up some clearance plants from petsmart to try and save. When going there I look at their plants and any of them that are in bad shape I ask them to mark down for me and they usually do at 50% off. I know I can save them. Ended up getting a Crypto Wendtii and Hygro Fern.
Will update pics here shortly.
Ended up getting a gallon of metricide to replace my almost gone Seachem excel. Will add 300ml of metricide 14 to 200ml or ro water for same strength as excel. Got a couple spare NilocG 500ml dosing bottles, one for the metricide mixture and the other one for the Iron Chelate I also got from NilocG.
Also picked up some clearance plants from petsmart to try and save. When going there I look at their plants and any of them that are in bad shape I ask them to mark down for me and they usually do at 50% off. I know I can save them. Ended up getting a Crypto Wendtii and Hygro Fern.
Will update pics here shortly.
Yeah, SAE's, Ottos and amano shrimp are all a must, IMO. Plus, they are all fun to watch.
Good luck with the Ottos. They can be difficult to keep the first couple weeks from everything I've read and my personal experience. Even though they will seem fine don't be surprised if you lose one or two. With that many SAE I think you will need to plan on supplemental feeding sooner than later.
I second what @sdwindansea said about Oto's. Some seem fine and then die within the first couple weeks, others just keep on trucking. I don't have experience with CAE but I've heard that they get big and mean...
1 - 20 of 121 Posts
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