40B w/glass canopy; poor light distribution?

1056 Views 9 Replies 7 Participants Last post by KayakJimW, Dec 10, 2016

helecho

Discussion Starter · Dec 8, 2016

Hello!

I have a 40B that ended up with a glass canopy because of some platinum hatchetfish. Since the hinge that allows to open the canopy is dark and right in the middle, I cannot place my finnex planted+ 24/7 in the center. This makes the back or front always be much darker than the side that the light is on.

While I am considering rehoming the hatchetfish, if I don't, what are my options? The tank might be considered to be medium planted and getting denser slowly but steadily. It's on a light EI dose with pressurized CO2 at about 1bps with some hair algae problems that I wish I had more time to work on.

Right now I'm debating on whether to get another 24/7 now, wait for the release of the newer version or go with a different model or brand. Oh, while I'm at it, my fixture is 36" but it seems to be slightly longer than my tank. Just enough that the fit of the mount won't quite sit on the frame. Would the 30" be a better choice? Would it be long enough?

Thanks!

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d-ave

· #2 · Dec 8, 2016

I've been looking into the same issue and found this helpful thread:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/150292-diy-glass-lids.html

It talks about acrylic lids too. Two fixtures may also be a solution that would give you the added benefit of more light as your tank becomes more heavily planted. I am not an expert, but was told by a couple of people that a single Planted + 24 is not enough for a 40 gallon breeder. Of course, I was told it would be enough when I decided to buy it 8 months ago

I ended up adding a CF 110 watt fixture because I happened to have one in my garage from a failed project Cichlid tank.

My tank and lid are acrylic, but with a warped and ineffective lid, I am going to make a new one out of acrylic, sans handles, and flip it every water change to off-set the warping. Though I suspect this may just cause it to warp in weird unexpected ways. Then I'll be after another solution.

Best of luck

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Econde

· #3 · Dec 8, 2016

helecho said:
Right now I'm debating on whether to get another 24/7 now, wait for the release of the newer version or go with a different model or brand. Oh, while I'm at it, my fixture is 36" but it seems to be slightly longer than my tank. Just enough that the fit of the mount won't quite sit on the frame. Would the 30" be a better choice? Would it be long enough?

Thanks!

You know what. I have a 30" 24/7 over my 20 gallon long. I had that same problem as you. I kept messing with the mounts til it moved. I don't know if there was a tab there that held it or what but yea I know exactly what you mean about it not fitting right.

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natemcnutty

· #4 · Dec 8, 2016

d-ave said:
I've been looking into the same issue and found this helpful thread:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/150292-diy-glass-lids.html

It talks about acrylic lids too. Two fixtures may also be a solution that would give you the added benefit of more light as your tank becomes more heavily planted. I am not an expert, but was told by a couple of people that a single Planted + 24 is not enough for a 40 gallon breeder. Of course, I was told it would be enough when I decided to buy it 8 months ago I ended up adding a CF 110 watt fixture because I happened to have one in my garage from a failed project Cichlid tank.

My tank and lid are acrylic, but with a warped and ineffective lid, I am going to make a new one out of acrylic, sans handles, and flip it every water change to off-set the warping. Though I suspect this may just cause it to warp in weird unexpected ways. Then I'll be after another solution.

Best of luck

Don't use acrylic, use polycarbonate. It's a bit more expensive, but it won't warp (at least it never has on my 12" wide tanks). The thickness also plays a big role in this, but I'd have to check what I'm using when I get home.

The biggest downside is that I find it harder to clean than glass, but I love the ability to customize the lid to exactly what I want.

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MUTigers

· #5 · Dec 8, 2016

We have a 36" over a 40 breeder and it fits great! We went with one thinking we could add another later if we want higher light. For now it's been fine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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d-ave

· #6 · Dec 9, 2016

Yeah, I was just about to report that mine warped in one day. Not badly, but I was surprised how quickly it happened. I just wanted to try the free and easy solution since I already had the material. I don't want to hijack the OPs thread, just reporting that my idea was terrible

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KayakJimW

· #7 · Dec 9, 2016

helecho said:
Hello!

I have a 40B that ended up with a glass canopy because of some platinum hatchetfish. Since the hinge that allows to open the canopy is dark and right in the middle, I cannot place my finnex planted+ 24/7 in the center. This makes the back or front always be much darker than the side that the light is on.

While I am considering rehoming the hatchetfish, if I don't, what are my options? The tank might be considered to be medium planted and getting denser slowly but steadily. It's on a light EI dose with pressurized CO2 at about 1bps with some hair algae problems that I wish I had more time to work on.

Right now I'm debating on whether to get another 24/7 now, wait for the release of the newer version or go with a different model or brand. Oh, while I'm at it, my fixture is 36" but it seems to be slightly longer than my tank. Just enough that the fit of the mount won't quite sit on the frame. Would the 30" be a better choice? Would it be long enough?

Thanks!

Just pull the hinge off. I have some old glass tops and hinges are long gone. This will probably only leave a half inch gap or so in the middle and you can split the difference at the front and back if you wanted. The hatchet would have to be a ninja to jump thru that.
Keep the hinge for later on down the road though...

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irishspy

· #8 · Dec 9, 2016

helecho said:
While I am considering rehoming the hatchetfish, if I don't, what are my options? The tank might be considered to be medium planted and getting denser slowly but steadily. It's on a light EI dose with pressurized CO2 at about 1bps with some hair algae problems that I wish I had more time to work on.

I had a similar problem with the glass lid on my 20-long. What I eventually did was make a "window screen" top using a frame kit from Home Depot and some 1/4" clear netting from Bulk Reef Supply. It was easy to make (even I could do it

) and worked just as I hoped.

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helecho

Discussion Starter · #9 · Dec 9, 2016

Thanks everyone for your insights!

I did have a screen one for a while but I found it cumbersome, maybe it was just the way I made it

.

If taking the hinge off is an option I will try that tomorrow when I do tank maintenance. If it doesn't compromise the structural integrity of the canopy then it's all good. It just seems like it won't open as easily since the pivot point won't be fixed anymore. Do you usually just lift it up and slide it on top of the other half?

Once I figure out when the new model of the planted+ comes out and the price point I'll decide on whether to use another fixture. Maybe the FugeRay Planted+? First things first and I need to win this algae battle!

Thanks guys!

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KayakJimW

· #10 · Dec 10, 2016

helecho said:
If taking the hinge off is an option I will try that tomorrow when I do tank maintenance. If it doesn't compromise the structural integrity of the canopy then it's all good. It just seems like it won't open as easily since the pivot point won't be fixed anymore. Do you usually just lift it up and slide it on top of the other half?

I didn't think about that, but they will lose some load bearing capacity without the hinge. I would not set anything near the middle on a glass top anyway though.
My tops without hinges are under wood canopies that sit on the tank's trim and my lights are on stands/feet that sit on the glass top within an inch or two from the left and right sides. I have the same scenario on a 48x18 tank with a center brace and a 30x12 tank without, so I'm not spanning the same 36" gap you are but I don't see a problem as my 30" seems sturdy. I'm pretty sure 36" glass tops are thicker glass too. I just open and lean the front piece of glass against my light strip for feeding or quick access to the tank. It may not be as smooth as when the hinge was there, but it solves the shadow problem. If I'm doing work in the tank I'll take the canopy and glass tops off completely and put them to the side until I'm done.
To remove the hinge, lay the tops on a towel on a flat surface. Grab one corner of the hinge and grab the glass edge closest to it. Pull the glass out gently, gradually increasing force until it comes out. Some come off easier than others. DO NOT grab each piece of glass and pull apart! This will cause the soft rubbery plastic in the middle to split. Also try not to squeeze the hinge between your thumb and finger as you pull the glass out, you're working against yourself that way. Use your thumb and finger more as a stopper and pull the glass thru them

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