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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. Recently got a 100 gallon tank with an overflow and trying to build out a sump using a 40 gallon breeder.
I drew out a few designs but had some questions I was hoping you guys may help with to see if there's anything I may have missed.
I also plan to run a purigen reactor either on the return line or from and back into the return chamber.

1. Which of the 3 designs would you go with? I was thinking Version 2 but not sure if there would be any problems.
2. Is the return area too large and if so how much smaller can I get away with/what would you do with the extra space?
3. My idea for the first chamber is typically to run it without filter socks, only using them occasionally to polish water.
Does anyone have a recommendation on how thick/what PPI poret foam to use?

Thanks!!
 

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Hi. Recently got a 100 gallon tank with an overflow and trying to build out a sump using a 40 gallon breeder.
I drew out a few designs but had some questions I was hoping you guys may help with to see if there's anything I may have missed.
I also plan to run a purigen reactor either on the return line or from and back into the return chamber.

1. Which of the 3 designs would you go with? I was thinking Version 2 but not sure if there would be any problems.
2. Is the return area too large and if so how much smaller can I get away with/what would you do with the extra space?
3. My idea for the first chamber is typically to run it without filter socks, only using them occasionally to polish water.
Does anyone have a recommendation on how thick/what PPI poret foam to use?

Thanks!!
Soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

All of these will work. They will filter your water.

BUT, it's kinda of crazy overkill. Let me give you an analogy.

Lets say you want to go to the corner store and get a gallon of milk. The store is 100 yards from your house. You could walk. You could get on a bicycle, you could get in your family sedan and drive there. All of those will work to get your gallon of milk.

Instead you decide to go out and buy a brand new car to make the journey. Then you decide you want some backup as well, so you buy new cars for 10 of your buddies so they can drive their cars with you incase your car breaks down on the way. Then you and your 10 buddies all get in their cars and drive the 100 yards to the corner store. It's a pain to do it this way because now you have to find parking for 10 cars where if it were just you that wouldn't be an issue. Plus all of your 10 buddies want to come in and shop with you which makes everything take longer then it needs to.

That situation is analogous to what you are doing with this sump.

IT WILL WORK. It's also going to make sooooo much more work for you.

Plus it will be noisy with all those baffles having water falling in your sump.

You don't need any of this.

All you need is a big open chamber with the incoming water on one side. Some foam that stretches all the way across in the middle, and the pumps on the other side. I honestly do like the idea of the ATO resevior in the sump itself, its a nice solution. But that's really all I would put in there by way of dividers.

There are a few tanks running a foam wall setup on this forum. It works very well.

You see a lot of baffles in sumps when you look online because most of them are saltwater tanks. Saltwater tanks tend to have a device called a protein skimmer in them and those things really want the water at the same level all the time (well most of them anyway). So they put in baffles to keep the water in the chamber with the protein skimmer the same level all the time. We don't have protein skimmers in freshwater and we don't care if the water level fluctuates in our sump so long as the pumps stay wet.

So my advice is to scrap the designs you have, and go with the foam instead. You will be much happier. 30ppi foam is all you need. 2 inches thick is a good thickness and relatively easy to find. If you want to go higher or lower ppi you can but its really not needed.

Good luck!
 

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I see, so would something like this be more fitting?
Would I need a powerhead for the K1 chamber to create a fluidized chamber?
Thanks
Sorry I can't see a picture if one is supposed to be present in this response.

For K1 if you want to use it as biological filter you can use a powerhead to make it a moving bed. Or you can leave it as a static bed. I briefly considered a k1 static bed as a possible means of mechanical filtration. The idea being to catch debris in the bed and then when doing a water change, you just stir up the bed and suck out the released debris. I even made a proof of concept:



I sadly underestimated how many holes I needed in the chamber separating the k1 from the pump and got a reduced water level. But the idea itself sort of worked. I say sort of because it did catch debris but it still would have been simpler just using foam :p So that's the way I am going with my most recent build for a crayfish.
 

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I would put one baffle in to create a place for your return pump and heaters to remain submerged at all times. Divide the rest off with foam of the ppi of your choosing. My sump has three, two are for structural support (acrylic 180 gal) drilled full of 1” holes and the last is at my desired water level. The foam is about 2” taller to make sure all the water goes through the foam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks everyone. Decided to go with just 5 foam pads, all 3 inches thick, in the order of 10 PPI > 20 PPI > 20 PPI > 20 PPI > 30 PPI.
After trimming I'll have 5 strips of 1.5" x 13" inch long foam. I'm thinking of cutting these into cubes to put in the last chamber to grow some BB.
If for some reason it ends up not being enough filtration I could always try to add a fluidized K1 chamber in the sump but I think it should be fine.
 

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I’m running three sections 24”x24” x3” for an over planted 245 with over 100 fish. I find the best result was to leave enough room between sections to fit a siphon hose or more to remove detritus. You will find the crud builds up on the area on the backside of each section.
 

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I have a 40 gallon breeder set up as a sump for my 75g. I'm pretty satisfied with the layout I have now with 3 main compartments - inflow, filter media, and return.
For the inflow area I have the two beananimal drains pouring straight into an empty compartment. I originally had them draining into a container with filter floss, but it got clogged too easily and didn't provide much better filtration than just the foam. After that it overflows into the second with 2 poret foam pads placed vertically (10ppi then 20ppi, both 3" thick). From there I have another baffle that keeps the water level over the foam pads constant. After that is the return pump area which just houses the return pump. Since you have a sump, it's not as necessary to have an ATO system. The water level will naturally decrease in the return area but if you make it large enough, it acts like a reservoir.

For CO2 I have that blue pump going through a gate valve into a DIY reactor. If I had a bigger return pump I'd pipe that right into the reactor though.

If I were to re-do my setup I'd reduce the height of the baffles by 1-2" and reduce the size of the inflow area to have more return pump area for less re-fill needs and more display tank draining safety margin.

You may find that the 30ppi foam causes too much restriction unless you routinely clean it. I have crystal clear water with only the 10 and 20ppi foams. Check how much water drains out of the display tank into the sump during a power-off event and make sure it won't overflow the sump. I have a sharpie mark that shows max fill level to be safe.

Cheers

Wood Electrical wiring Gas Hardwood Rectangle
 
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