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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All! First thank you so much for all of your helpful advice and just a wealth of info on this site.

I am in the process of gathering the last remaining parts for my first ever planted tank.

Here is what I have so far...
*40 Gallon Breeder

*Glass Top

*Nova Extreme T5HO 2X39 Freshwater Pack (10000K/6700K)

*Eheim 2227 Filter (I have experimented with simply sticking the breather tube into the water instead of leaving it out to add o2 - works fine - when I can... Ill replace this for a 2217 - but not today!)

*Eheim Installation Kit 1 and 2. (Can this be considering somehow in CO2 Distribution?)

*ECO Aqualizer S55

*Hydor In Line Eth200 200 Watt Heater

*Milwaukee Regulator MA957 with Solenoid (I know, I know!)
5LBS Aluminum CO2 Tank

*2 bags of Flora Base and *1 Bag of Fluorite Black
Question 1... Is there anything else I should add to this mix?

*Water deionizer (perhaps this can be used in co2 distribution?)

Plan right now is to ask for a few Holiday Presents... So, I am trying to figure out my last remaining needs.

I am going to 100% purchase a brass check valve and CO2 Tubing, Dry Ferts for eventual EI dosing, a power strip timer and a drop checker from Orlando.

What other "additives" do I need to have handy, water conditioners etc? Are there any recommended test kits that I must have without breaking the bank?

I am considering a UV sterilizer. Any inexpensive recommendations? This can be added later in my efforts I suppose.

I will also purchase a small Hydor Koralia Pump for circulation flow (Can someone recommend a size for a 40 breeder?)
Also I believe I need an air pump to turn on at night for O2? Is this necessary? Any recommendations?

This leaves me to consider a co2 distribution method.
I am considering the BAYU, or just spending a $23 and getting REX Grigg's Reactor. I really do not want to DIY.
I am not sure if I am able to set up a DIY needle wheel just yet. Should I consider the Mazzei venturi? i just know that I want something in line and not in the tank. I am totally stuck here!

I will have driftwood and rocks. I am going to add a few cherry shrimp, some snails, and 30 Rummy Nose Tetras eventually in a heavily planted tank. My first year goal is simply to learn.

I am sure I am missing a ton of stuff!

Thank you all! :fish:
 

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Welcome to TPT, and the 40BREEDER club! I'm setting mine up very very soon and MAN were there a lot of unexpected necessities.

-Check the 'bay for a UV sterilizer, you'll find the typical price around 45/50 (shipped) for an inline.
-Pick up a drop checker from a Hong Kong seller on eBay, they're like $8 shipped for a glass one. Also find out if you want to make or buy the 4dkh solution, I have had my drop checker for almost a week and it isn't in the tank b/c I don't want to do either haha.
-$23 (+shipping!) aint bad for a reactor if you want to save the effort. Consider the loss of flow though - if you're already under-powered you might want to get a diffuser instead for the time being. If time is an issue, keep in mind that Rex is a busy man and shipping for my items is taking forever.
-Airpump isn't necessary if the co2 gets shut off at night.
-Sell my your Hydor
 

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Sounds like you have everything you need already. I would forego the air pump, water deionizer and uv sterilizer. The koralia sounds like a good idea and I've been looking into getting the koralia 1 for my 75g. You may want to try this as your co2 reactor.
 

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It looks a like a good list. You are planning things out very carefully.

My first comment is to send the Aqulizer back and get your money back. It's snake oil.

Second comment: As far as co2 distribution, a lot of people use different methods. Personally, I inject straight into my filter lines using an irrigation fitting made for injecting fertilizer into irrigation lines. See my 60-P journal below for a picture of what I'm talking about. You can use other methods. A DIY reactor is easy to make and cheap. You can build it for $12 or less or buy one for $23.

Keep your eye on ebay for a good deal on a UV. They aren't a necessary part of a planted tank, but they are REALLY convenient.

I'd wait on the Hydor Koralia....setup the tank, let it run for a bit, and then see if you need it. If you do, the Koralia 1 should be plenty.

Put the co2 on a timer with the lights so it shuts off at night, then, no need for an air pump.

Good luck with the tank and be sure to start a journal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi - first thank you all once again, this is such a fantastic community, I appreciate this beyond words.

I acquired both the Aqualizer and the Deionizer for free from a friend that had broken down a reef tank. I just want to go on record as stating they were given to me for free.

Since my investment on the Aqualizer was $0 and I cannot return it, should I simply use it or discard it? I figure using it at the very least as "tubing" and if by chance there is even a chance of it having something to add positively, simply put... why not?

The friend that gave me the deionizer simply used it to put tap water into a bucket, add his salt for his reef and run a power-head overnight before using the mix in his water changes. Since this deionizer was also a free acquired item that cannot be returned, should I use it to simply deionize my water before a change? I will have to do water changes using a bucket since my tank setup will not be near a sink. Is there any benefit to plumb a deionizer into my system flow (not sure of the proper term)?

I agree about the air pump. I will simply turn Co2 off at night via the solenoid. Thank you for saving me some money! And I will take the advice and not buy the Hydor Koralia unless I have the need. Again thank you!

Nearly the same thought with the UV sterilizer. If I see a great deal on one, perhaps I will add one, but i guess I do not need to spend the money out of the gates.

Now back onto Co2 for distribution. I appreciate the $10 investment that lildark185 recommended, but I know I want to keep the equipment out of the tank.

I also know that i do not want a misting effect. I'd rather have no mist (7UP). I may be wrong on my terms again. But would the reactor like Rex offers, does that dissolve Co2 with no mist? I saw the plans to build one that he provided, perhaps this can be my one DIY project, or still pay the $23 to have it made correctly. Still in thinking about this one. Does the Rex style reactor make much noise? This tank is going into my small office, so I am interested in something as silent as possible.

jmhart - does your solution "mist 7up" and or make a lot of noise? Seems very compelling. I now know from this conversation that I want very little to no mist and most importantly not a lot of noise.

Substrate -I have 2 bags of Flora Base and 1 Bag of Fluorite Black
Is there anything else I should add to this mix?

I saw the Master Hydor Test Kit online for $50. Is this worth asking someone to buy as a holiday present? Or a waste of money. I currently have no test supplies.

Finally (and not asking about ferts for EI)
What other "additives" do I need to have handy, water conditioners etc?

Thank you all once again!
PS I will 100% start a journal once I gather all of the items I will need.
 

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Seems like you've done some homework.

First off, how's your tap water? Soft or hard? If you're planning to dose EI, you don't really need to worry about substrate. The stuff you have should be fine, although having a rich substrate does benefit heavy root feeder plants such as crypts and swords. Some people use root tabs or jobe sticks as supplement.

CO2 - Misting is def best for plants. If you don't like the "7-up" look, just stick to an inline reactor such as the inexpensive 'Rex reactor'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
New York City Tap Water - The word is that it is soft. Generally the PH is below 7 but can be as high as 8.

But this from info on line. I would need to test from my tap.
 

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My thoughts on the Aqualizer are to not use it. This is a great little breakdown of it. It won't "harm" your tank, but it is extra tubing that will slow down flow. However, you could use it as a CO2 reactor. Basically all it is is PVC with some magnets named to it. You could use the PVC as your reactor. Drill a hole in the side of it, push in some co2 tubing, silicone the hole.



jmhart - does your solution "mist 7up" and or make a lot of noise? Seems very compelling. I now know from this conversation that I want very little to no mist and most importantly not a lot of noise.
I don't necessarily use a reactor. Like I mentioned in my previous post, I shoot my co2 into an irrigation fitting, and then it goes through my entire filter look,filter and all, making my entire filter loop a "reactor". I get very little misting. It is nearly 100% dissolved. It's not any more noisy that just the filter running by itself. However, occasionally the filter kind of gets a burp, and it'll shoot out a bunch of bubbles, but that's *maybe* once an hour for just 1-2 seconds.

I'm not sure how well it would work with the 2227, I'm not familiar with how the Eheim wet/dry's work.
 

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Sounds like you have this pretty well planned out.

I would defiantly recommend a test kit at least for PH, nitrates, and ammonia. Also GH and KH are pretty useful depending on what kind of fish you want to keep. I use an API master test kit + API GH and KH test kits, it seems pretty accurate compared to tests the LFS ran on my water.

As for a water conditioner which you will need, most people here recommend Prime. But i think any decent brand will work fine.

The drop checker from orlando should come with 4dkh solution.

As for Co2 distribution i know you said you want to keep things out of the tank, but if you are adding a powerhead anyway, you could just rout the Co2 tube into the powerhead. It does create that "misting" effect though, if you don't like that, go the reactor route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I just bit the bullet and am waiting to hear back from Rex.

I am ordering his reactor, co2 tubing, brass check valve, and brass perma seal.

I am also ordering the drop checker from Orlando.

This will leave me only needing test kit, prime (or similar), perhaps some Ferka products from Orlando. Getting closer!

Thanks again! - would love to keep hearing people's thoughts.

PS - Anyone want an Aqualizer? Seems like its in huge demand!
 

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It's soft. I use equilibrium when I do water changes and I keep some coral in my filter.

This only becomes important when considering fish. Most plants do better in soft water....crypts are about the only thing I can think of that like hard water. Most of the fish popularly seen in planted tanks also prefer soft water.
 

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This only becomes important when considering fish. Most plants do better in soft water....crypts are about the only thing I can think of that like hard water. Most of the fish popularly seen in planted tanks also prefer soft water.
But aren't the nutrients in the Equilibrium important since they aren't present elsewhere?
 

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But aren't the nutrients in the Equilibrium important since they aren't present elsewhere?
That depends on just how soft the water is, and more importantly how low the GH of the water is. If the GH is higher than 4 degrees, you're fine, at least in my experience. I lived somewhere with very low GH, below 5, and my plants grew lush and beautifully and I kept some of the most difficult soft water fish.

GH booster available from GLA and Aquarium Fertilizer does the same job as Equilibrium at a fraction of the price just FYI.
 
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