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I've been keeping reef tanks on and off for the past 19 years...some more successfully than others. Two years ago I had to tear down my tank as my family was moving to the suburbs with the intent to build our forever house. I posted on here about the design of tank (https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9-equipment/1278953-plumbing-question.html#post11108493) but failed to keep up with posting any updates. Hopefully I'll do better with this thread.



I told my wife she could pick basically everything but I wanted a 300 gallon peninsula style tank with a basement sump room. (OK - I also had two other requirements - a garage with a lift and radiant heat.) And so we began...
 

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We moved into the house a few months ago and am finally settled enough to begin working on the tank. I still need to buy equipment but it's always good to start making the tank look a little better so bought some spider wood to begin working on the hard scape.


My tank was designed as a peninsula tank with a coast to coast overflow. The return feeds in from the opposite side pushing the water across the tank.

I'm going to make a spray bar for the return. As it's on the end of the tank I've ordered some clear food grade pvc pipe to make it with. I was going to try and make it out of acrylic tube but could not find any with the correct diameter for the plumbing.

I bought enough to plumb it so that either the spray bar can spray out at the top of the tank or plumb it to the bottom so that it shoots out across the bottom of the tank. I thought this might be better to not off-gas CO2.

Anyone have any thoughts/opinions on plumbing it at the top of the water line vs at the bottom of the tank? I would have to drill one hole at the water line no matter what as a siphon break.
 

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I'm sure this will end up being spectacular. You may want to rethink the clear PVC/acrylic. I tried that once when I did a closed loop for flow with clear PVC at multiple outputs to try to blend them in and they grew algae real well. If you stick with it be sure to have a plan for frequent cleaning.

Mickey
 

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I'm sure this will end up being spectacular. You may want to rethink the clear PVC/acrylic. I tried that once when I did a closed loop for flow with clear PVC at multiple outputs to try to blend them in and they grew algae real well. If you stick with it be sure to have a plan for frequent cleaning.

Mickey
I would have to concur with this observation, I've used clear reinforced flex tubing and it's brown with gunk growing inside it. That's even with minimal light exposure too.

Can't wait to see how this all turns out!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the observations about the clear PVC. The bulkhead is threaded so I can always switch it out to loc-line if need be.

I'm going to do the sump in the basement. By my calculation I have about 15-16 head pressure. I was planning on using an Iwaki 70 or 100 RLT. What are most people running for turnover in their tanks? In reef tanks we always wanted as much flow as possible but I know that is not the case for planted tanks.

Lighting I am planning on 3 kessil A360x Tuna Sun. They are rated for a 36 by 36 tank with moderate plantings. I can always add more or strip lighting in the future if I need more light. I had the older Tuna Blue's on my reef tank and really liked them.
 

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Wow, I am jealous. This is going to be an amazing tank. Looking forward to following along on your journey with that swimming pool.

Any ETA for when it will be filled?
 

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I was thinking the same. OP, maybe build a larger reactor?
not necessarily, and im actually hoping to find out through this build, the capacity of a well tuned cerges. ;) To start, i suspect he can introduce some back pressure to help with dissolution, but that brings along its own plumbing issues, etc.

edit: actually, i just realized that the water has to go up a floor! thats plenty of built in pressurization! very very interesting. but the cerges has a very limited sized opening. is it on a bypass line?
 

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I was thinking the same. OP, maybe build a larger reactor?
not necessarily, and im actually hoping to find out through this build, the capacity of a well tuned cerges. <a href="http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/images/smilie/icon_wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" >:)</a> To start, i suspect he can introduce some back pressure to help with dissolution, but that brings along its own plumbing issues, etc.

edit: actually, i just realized that the water has to go up a floor! thats plenty of built in pressurization! very very interesting. but the cerges has a very limited sized opening. is it on a bypass line?
I hadn't even thought about that... Your right he probably can do something with that.. this tank just gets more interesting
 

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I'm following.

This cerges thing is fascinating for me. Dosing CO2 and fertilizer to "prevent" algae growth is new to me so I'm always fascinated to see different methods for doing both.
 

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I was able to get some work on it done today. The CO2 reactor:


The sump table and return plumbing:


And a quick water test of the overflow box and plumbing in the wall:




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Just finding this build now, and subscribed. Looks to be a fun journey ahead.

Curious to see how the cerges does. I run the same size on my 75 gallon and it works great. I wonder if you will need to go to the 20" vs. 10" housing?

Great start!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I definitely got off to a slow start due to stress/costs associated with moving into a new house! Ordering window treatments put me back two months of the build alone!!

However, I’m working as fast as I can on it now. I hoped to have more of the sump room done this weekend but between the fumes in the non- ventilated room and a few walls of the sump being the wrong size has put me on pause for today.

As for the size of the cerges reactor. I’m not sure. This is my first planted tank. I don’t think a longer one would help any as you really need more surface area for gas exchange. Maybe a larger diameter one? I bought a nano pump and a set of waterproof cable glands to put a pump in the reactor to increase surface agitation if needed.

The cerges is going to be a closed loop into
And out of the sump. I will have a pump pumping water from the sump into the reactor the return will be plumbed to return right into the mail return pump chamber.

The sump will be sealed as much as possible.




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