Hmm. Something is going on. That's the third incident I read on this forum.
Check your waterworks if they're doing anything to the water.
Check your waterworks if they're doing anything to the water.
30 Danios Down...
I just read through Montbars post and my situation is almost identical. I have a 55g with 15 small discus and 30 zebra danios. They have been doing great for weeks, I just did a 50% WC looked at the tank this morning and all 30 of the danios were dead stuck to my power head. I would have cried if my discus weren't doing fine.
My water parameters are fine as follows: Nitrites and Nitrates at 0, GH 100ppm, 0 chlorine, Alkalinity 120ppm, PH 7.4, Ammonia 0. I immediately dosed Prime after the WC as I always do, and also added some excel couse I have a green water issue. I am running a Jeboa 3 stage and have been using a UV sterilizer for the past week. Temps been consistently at 84 F I dont know what happened...
Could I have just bought unhealthy fish? I got them from Fish Den and have never had any problems with them. The only thing that I can think of is that they died from feeding. I have been feeding the discus frozen blood worms, frozen brine shrimp, freeze dried black worms, and tropical flakes. I always let the frozen and freeze dried foods soak so they dont expand in their stomachs, and I alternate foods everyday. They have been eating all the same stuff for weeks, then all of a sudden 30 gone in an instant. Anyone have any ideas?
My water parameters are fine as follows: Nitrites and Nitrates at 0, GH 100ppm, 0 chlorine, Alkalinity 120ppm, PH 7.4, Ammonia 0. I immediately dosed Prime after the WC as I always do, and also added some excel couse I have a green water issue. I am running a Jeboa 3 stage and have been using a UV sterilizer for the past week. Temps been consistently at 84 F I dont know what happened...
Could I have just bought unhealthy fish? I got them from Fish Den and have never had any problems with them. The only thing that I can think of is that they died from feeding. I have been feeding the discus frozen blood worms, frozen brine shrimp, freeze dried black worms, and tropical flakes. I always let the frozen and freeze dried foods soak so they dont expand in their stomachs, and I alternate foods everyday. They have been eating all the same stuff for weeks, then all of a sudden 30 gone in an instant. Anyone have any ideas?
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Aye, and set up an aging barrel if you need more water changes, use maybe a bit more dechlor and a powerhead and/or airstone to mix and airscour.
+1 to mistergreen
I've been seeing a lot about this going on across the country (United States). I've been reading about people doing 50% water changes and losing most of their fish... I just recently did a 50-70% water change in my 10 gallon and all my rasboras and RCS are doing fine...
Perhaps something is going on. Whatever it is, I don't like it ):
I'm getting some nicer fish soon for my new tank... hopefully the water won't kill them either... Sorry for the loss
I've been seeing a lot about this going on across the country (United States). I've been reading about people doing 50% water changes and losing most of their fish... I just recently did a 50-70% water change in my 10 gallon and all my rasboras and RCS are doing fine...
Perhaps something is going on. Whatever it is, I don't like it ):
I'm getting some nicer fish soon for my new tank... hopefully the water won't kill them either... Sorry for the loss
Where are you located in Colorado? I am due for a water change this eve on both my 10 and 36 gal. My danios from Fish Den are still doing great after a year.
I'm in ArvadaWhere are you located in Colorado? I am due for a water change this eve on both my 10 and 36 gal. My danios from Fish Den are still doing great after a year.
Does your water come from Standley Lake? Just curious because that is where mine comes from. I tried to look up Adams County water report today, but could not find anything.I'm in Arvada
Looks like Arvada water sources vary, they put on an additional source from April to Octoberish:
http://arvada.org/departments-divisions/public-works-department/water-treatment-division/
http://arvada.org/departments-divisions/public-works-department/water-treatment-division/
funny, I did a 50% a couple weeks ago and all but 3 of my gold danios died ( I lost seven in 5 minutes) . they went spiral nutz and passed in minutes. none of my other fish reacted at all. even the other danio types, blue, leopard, striped, all were fine except the golds. I thought it was because the golds are hyperactive and spent the whole waterchange in the in stream of chlorinated water, or got gill coated from the de-chlorinator (satori pond dechlorinator: discontinued). maybe I should look into my municipal water supply.
All these dead fish posts are starting to freak me out!
i am on the same water but havent noticed anything diff ill keep an eye out though, i dont do 50% for this reason as if there is something bad in the water i keep in to a minumum by adding less water id rather do 10-20% then deal with this. how recently did u get these fish? call down there and talk to mj and explane what happend see if he will do anything? normaly fishden has good stock all my neons and crap are doing fine. To contact the Water Quality and Environmental Services Division Monday through Friday, 8:00 am - 5:00 pm, call 720-898-7800, or visit Arvada City Hall, 8101 Ralston Road, 2nd floor. call and see
Yikes, this is scary!! I haven't had any loses yet. *knocks on wood.* I'm in FoCo, though.
I did a 50% on my sulawesi tank with water that age for 6-7 days with crushed coral and aeration.
I just did a 75% water change on my 10g betta and assassin snail tank, using water straight from the tap treated with a squirt of Prime.
Skipped this week for water cahnge in my RCS 10g.
I did a 50% on my sulawesi tank with water that age for 6-7 days with crushed coral and aeration.
I just did a 75% water change on my 10g betta and assassin snail tank, using water straight from the tap treated with a squirt of Prime.
Skipped this week for water cahnge in my RCS 10g.
I skipped my water change tonight, and will do one tomorrow. I usually do a 40% on my 36g and a 25-30% on my 10g
I tested the tap, and the water seems to be just fine. Im a loss on this one.i am on the same water but havent noticed anything diff ill keep an eye out though, i dont do 50% for this reason as if there is something bad in the water i keep in to a minumum by adding less water id rather do 10-20% then deal with this. how recently did u get these fish? call down there and talk to mj and explane what happend see if he will do anything? normaly fishden has good stock all my neons and crap are doing fine. To contact the Water Quality and Environmental Services Division Monday through Friday, 8:00 am - 5:00 pm, call 720-898-7800, or visit Arvada City Hall, 8101 Ralston Road, 2nd floor. call and see
Maybe something else in the water that we do not usually test for.
This is alarming... however I do have to ask why do people do 50% and more water changes?
I have had fish tanks for well just say too many years to count and rule of thumb has always been not less then 25% not to exceed 35% water changes
so I have a few questions about larger water changes?
does it change the temp of your tank?
how many deg. are you dropping the tank?
do you use straight cold water or do you add hot water from you hot water heater?
also do you test the tank water before and after the water changes?
how much change is there in the parameters?
my understanding is any and all of these things could cause instant death
I have had fish tanks for well just say too many years to count and rule of thumb has always been not less then 25% not to exceed 35% water changes
so I have a few questions about larger water changes?
does it change the temp of your tank?
how many deg. are you dropping the tank?
do you use straight cold water or do you add hot water from you hot water heater?
also do you test the tank water before and after the water changes?
how much change is there in the parameters?
my understanding is any and all of these things could cause instant death
ei dosing, and generally speking if your water is good (the new water) there is no harm in doing a large waterchange. doing a 25% water change is innefective over the long haul at actually diluting, in fact it leads to only a slow escalation of contamination. most of the "old rules of thumb" are just that, old and out dated.This is alarming... however I do have to ask why do people do 50% and more water changes?
maybe this wc ratio table I put together a while ago can show you what I mean
water change table, showing how many changes at what volume to make initial amounts reduce to
roughly 25% of their initial levels, this is without including influx or increase during the period between water changes.
old water remaining is also (in the case of 100G of water) directly to convertable to percent of initial amount of measurable parameter (nitrate, phosphate etc.)
you can use the second section to figure the amount of new influx between changes that you are reducing.
damn vbulletin automaticly nukes my spacing so your going to have to imagine they are spaced accordingly
change number , percent changed, old water remaining, new water remaining ,
table 1 from initial change
1 20% 80% 100%
2 20% 64% 80%
3 20% 51.2% 64%
4 20% 40.96% 51.2%
5 20% 32.768% 40.96%
6 20% 26.1424% 32.768%
table 2
1 30% 70% 100%
2 30% 49% 70%
3 30% 34.3% 49%
4 30% 24.01% 34.3%
table 3
1 40% 60% 100%
2 40% 48% 60%
3 40% 28.8% 48%
table 4
1 50% 50% 100%
2 50% 25% 50%
you can see that even if your doing weekly water changes it'll take a month and a half to reduce existing levels down to 25%. if your doing them biweekly 3 months. the obvious diminishing returns from each change, shows favor towards larger waterchanges rather than multiple small ones. if your nutrient levels are increasing by 30% each week, a 20% water change, will never ever reduce your over all nutrient levels it will only slow the rate of increase. thus it is my opinion that water change amounts must be tailored to suit the tank.
a tank expiriencing only a 5 % increase in nutrient levels in a week will remain static with 20% monthly waterchanges, with nutrient levels neither increasing or decreasing. while a tank expirienceing a 6% increase will never have its nutrients lowered using the same method. only a one percent increase over existing levels each week eventually cumulating in either an algae bloom or some other form iof undesirable reaction.
(please keep in mind I originally created this for reef tanks where below testable levels are ideal for the nutrients I mentioned) also keep in mind, that waterchanges reduce the things we dont test for like horomones from fish, its common knowledge that some fish such as discus exude horomones that inhibit the growth of other discus, so doing minimalist waterchanges stunts the growth of many fishes. and we have no readily available way to test and see how many horomoes are in the tank water or how high a lvel that could be adversly affecting fish
water change table, showing how many changes at what volume to make initial amounts reduce to
roughly 25% of their initial levels, this is without including influx or increase during the period between water changes.
old water remaining is also (in the case of 100G of water) directly to convertable to percent of initial amount of measurable parameter (nitrate, phosphate etc.)
you can use the second section to figure the amount of new influx between changes that you are reducing.
damn vbulletin automaticly nukes my spacing so your going to have to imagine they are spaced accordingly
change number , percent changed, old water remaining, new water remaining ,
table 1 from initial change
1 20% 80% 100%
2 20% 64% 80%
3 20% 51.2% 64%
4 20% 40.96% 51.2%
5 20% 32.768% 40.96%
6 20% 26.1424% 32.768%
table 2
1 30% 70% 100%
2 30% 49% 70%
3 30% 34.3% 49%
4 30% 24.01% 34.3%
table 3
1 40% 60% 100%
2 40% 48% 60%
3 40% 28.8% 48%
table 4
1 50% 50% 100%
2 50% 25% 50%
you can see that even if your doing weekly water changes it'll take a month and a half to reduce existing levels down to 25%. if your doing them biweekly 3 months. the obvious diminishing returns from each change, shows favor towards larger waterchanges rather than multiple small ones. if your nutrient levels are increasing by 30% each week, a 20% water change, will never ever reduce your over all nutrient levels it will only slow the rate of increase. thus it is my opinion that water change amounts must be tailored to suit the tank.
a tank expiriencing only a 5 % increase in nutrient levels in a week will remain static with 20% monthly waterchanges, with nutrient levels neither increasing or decreasing. while a tank expirienceing a 6% increase will never have its nutrients lowered using the same method. only a one percent increase over existing levels each week eventually cumulating in either an algae bloom or some other form iof undesirable reaction.
(please keep in mind I originally created this for reef tanks where below testable levels are ideal for the nutrients I mentioned) also keep in mind, that waterchanges reduce the things we dont test for like horomones from fish, its common knowledge that some fish such as discus exude horomones that inhibit the growth of other discus, so doing minimalist waterchanges stunts the growth of many fishes. and we have no readily available way to test and see how many horomoes are in the tank water or how high a lvel that could be adversly affecting fish
Have no idea what happened but would be surprised if it is water quality alone. Discus are way more sensitive fish than danios. Were the discus darkened or stressed looking?
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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