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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have recently upgraded to Pressurized CO2 and started dosing ferts. I currently have a sat + on the tank and I really like the light despite its drawbacks(low par, lack of timer or being able to integrate a time utilizing the lights functions.) I Have now reached the point that i need more light.

current plants are:
amazon swords
cryptocoryne
ludwigia repens
java ferns

and soon will either be doing a HG, Micro sword or Baby Tears carpet. Most Likely Micro sword as I feel it is not used enough in the community.

My original plan was to get another Sat +. After lots of research, I not sure if that will be enough. I am looking for a Med-High light setup. I am interested in the Finnex and Build My LED products but having the feature the sat plus does is pretty neat. I heard they will becoming out with a newer, stronger version here soon( not happy bout that as i just bought the current one a couple months ago) and not sure if I should wait and just order the new one. I was thinking about selling my sat + and buying something that will fit my needs better. having the dynamic features isn't a must for me.

So what does everyone think? Any recommendations?
 

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I also have a 29 that I want a high light led for. I like gimmicky crap so I want a full spectrum, sunrise/sunset, and maybe the ability to do thunderstorms. Super gimmicky. The cheapest way I have found to do this so far is go full DIY and build a ridiculous custom set up.

Since your light already has the rgb LEDs and all you need is more light you could just keep your current light and add another, more powerful unit like a ray 2 or something similar. Otherwise, I'd build your own. I'm planning on building pendants so if I ever upgrade or sell my 29 I will be able to use them over another tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Edub.

I have become less and less interested with the dynamic effects of the sat +. I'm curently talking to Build my LED about a system. As I am planning to use a controller I think I will be going with there "dutch" system. I really only want the ability to ramp the lights up and down.
 

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Thanks for the reply Edub.

I have become less and less interested with the dynamic effects of the sat +. I'm currently talking to Build my LED about a system. As I am planning to use a controller I think I will be going with there "dutch" system. I really only want the ability to ramp the lights up and down.

One of my personal "knocks" on BML is their poor implementation of dimming, and being tied to the APEX i.e. expensive controller for automatic ramping functions..
0-10V dimming circuit.. instead of PWM dimming. There are ways to modify cheaper controllers to do this but............
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I plan on getting a apex lite or a reef keeper to control everything. If need be and budget doesn't allow, I have few arduinos laying around as well. I'm actually using one to control a relay box I made that controls CO2, airstone and the lights throughout the day.

I am open to other suggestion then the BML option. I am not committed yet.

Sent using these stoopid hooves..
 

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I plan on getting a apex lite or a reef keeper to control everything. If need be and budget doesn't allow, I have few arduinos laying around as well. I'm actually using one to control a relay box I made that controls CO2, airstone and the lights throughout the day.

I am open to other suggestion then the BML option. I am not committed yet.

Sent using these stoopid hooves..
I've played w/ using a Typhon (basic Adruno box) to do 10V dimming. It is not hard to convert the PWM to a variable 10V signal.. but it isn't what I would call elegant.. you need an opamp circuit and a >10v power tap.. There are plenty of diagrams for the circuit.. I WAS hoping to use the 10v PWM but the circuit is not designed as I would expect..
you can see my feeble attempt here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2318572


I actually got the passive circuit desgned only to find the PWM output was too weak to run the Meanwell circuit.. I got the voltage I wanted (by doubling the V of the 5V PWM out) but cutting amps in half was the final barrier..
anyways the opamp circuit was simple.. Even simpler was changing drivers........ ;)
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2318572

I increased Vout to 9.3 (I think) by changing diode types.. stll not enough amps fed to the Meanwell circuit..

Anyways the circuit that most use is like this.. IF you have a more elegant idea, let me know..



also:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2314368

Thanks for sharing that. Regarding the 10v side is definitely different looking on the oscilloscope, (not a clean square wave), but oddly, it works just fine on the 10V PWM drivers, so we never really looked into it.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've played w/ using a Typhon (basic Adruno box) to do 10V dimming. It is not hard to convert the PWM to a variable 10V signal.. but it isn't what I would call elegant.. you need an opamp circuit and a >10v power tap.. There are plenty of diagrams for the circuit.. I WAS hoping to use the 10v PWM but the circuit is not designed as I would expect..
you can see my feeble attempt here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2318572


I actually got the passive circuit desgned only to find the PWM output was too weak to run the Meanwell circuit.. I got the voltage I wanted (by doubling the V of the 5V PWM out) but cutting amps in half was the final barrier..
anyways the opamp circuit was simple.. Even simpler was changing drivers........ ;)
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2318572

I increased Vout to 9.3 (I think) by changing diode types.. stll not enough amps fed to the Meanwell circuit..

Anyways the circuit that most use is like this.. IF you have a more elegant idea, let me know..



also:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2314368
Just a quick thought, would a DC motor driver for the arduino work. Should be able to supply enough amps and the right voltage.

Sent using these stoopid hooves..


Sent using these stoopid hooves..
 

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Just a quick thought, would a DC motor driver for the arduino work. Should be able to supply enough amps and the right voltage.

Sent using these stoopid hooves..


Sent using these stoopid hooves..
IF I understand this right.. Sure it it probably similar to what is inside the Apex for V1/V2 ect..
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoMotorShieldR3#.UxVQc2fEGM0

Technically probably overkill though , the OPAMP circuit would be cheaper.. You still need another external power supply.

IF it had a "real" 10V PWM out on the Typhon a simple R/C circuit would have worked...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
IF I understand this right.. Sure it it probably similar to what is inside the Apex for V1/V2 ect..
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoMotorShieldR3#.UxVQc2fEGM0

Technically probably overkill though , the OPAMP circuit would be cheaper.. You still need another external power supply.

IF it had a "real" 10V PWM out on the Typhon a simple R/C circuit would have worked...
I already have something just like it is what made me think about it. I just started my venture into the arduino/electronics world a few months ago.

Sent using these stoopid hooves..
 

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I bought the LED lighting for my 20g from rapidled.com, and I really like it. Their solderless LEDs are very easy to put together, and the setup can be modified at will.

I used the tool from buildmyled to help decide on the mix of colors to get a good CRI and low color temp as I wanted. My CRI is above 95 and I am totally amazed at how it makes the colors come so alive!

I have 20 LEDs total, divided among 3 dimmable drivers : 8 cool white, 5 warm white + 3 cyan, and 4 deep red.

I am now considering replacing the lighting for my 95g. I currently have the LED lighting I used when it was a reef, except now I dont use the actinics because that much blue looks awful with plants. I want to replace it with something dimmable, and with a high CRI because I have seen how incredibly more beautiful it looks!
 
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