Nope, you're in the right section! Looks like a good setup and you should have a fun time learning all about planted tanks if you decide to go that route.
I'd rethink this combo, Warm whites and the 8000K will serve you best, I'd keep one row of the other colors for aesthetics.I just finished my DIY LEDs, 24 Neutral White XMLs, 52 XTE Royal Blues, 7 Deep Red & 7 Cyan.
Fine here.Tank: 130x18x20
've got this all setup in my basement, and am loving the quiet, no salt creep, and not spending large amounts of money.
I'm curious your thoughts on making the move and how easy it might be.
From a bit of research I know:
1. No calcium containing substrate or rock; I want aquasoil
Not true, all my tanks have overflows, all my client's tanks have over flows.2. My overflow will deplete CO2
Water changes will be 10X easier, so management will be cheap and easy to do a water change.3. I want a regulator/tank system
4. I want to shoot for somewhere between 6,700K and 10,000K
5. Maintenance might be less, but I'll be dosing more nutrients than removing them in my reef.
Maybe 1 of the MP40's is all that is needed where the water comes in.Equipment:
2 x mp40w es
return pumps available: eheim 1262, reeflo dart, iwaki 55
I like dwarf cichlids and their interactions. My last freshwater was a 240 tanganyika specific.
Anyway, here are a couple pictures of the tank. I'm going to be traveling a lot more here and am looking forward to making the change.
Spend the $ on the automated water changes system. Then when you travel, things will keep going fine. The key is having the overflow redundancy in the water change system.
No need for those, by a pH meter might serve you well.Thoughts? I planned on buying a controller and a calcium reactor for this new setup, so I have some wiggle room to make this work.
The client I have does nothing but feed the fish and maybe once every 2 to 3 months a light trim and changing the ferts(auto dosing) refill.I would really like to be able to leave this for a few days without worrying, but also want something I can work on and enjoy.
Also, I am a creeper, first post, original sign up date 3 years ago! I've been thinking about it for awhile looks like I may have posted this in the wrong forum section.
Same with another client.
Auto or semi automated water changes are the way to go.
Also, make sure that access inside the tank is easy for you, you will be gardening in there, so bulky hard to access hoods suck eggs..........
Open top designs are very nice for this reason and look awesome.
The hood is now suspended 13" above and the leds around 10" above that inside the hood, change can roughly be seen in the last picture.I'd rethink this combo, Warm whites and the 8000K will serve you best, I'd keep one row of the other colors for aesthetics.
But say 4 rows of the 8000/5000K mix as the main lighting.
I'd likely not even use optix in an enclosed hood like this.
If so, the wider, the better.
I started drilling for a beananimal, but ended up only drilling two holes (didn't do last emergency), 1.5", and going with it's predecessor the herbie. Running one channel full siphon and the other emergency. I was considering adding the third emergency but with 1" bulkhead. I have all the plumbing for this, just have to take the drains through the wall into the closet behind, noise was a big concern, I am excited to test this.Not true, all my tanks have overflows, all my client's tanks have over flows.
Search "bean animal" and similar "overflows", these do not degas CO2. Wet/drys can/should be used, but you seal off the dry chamber to prevent CO2 degassing often with duct tape, a simple fix.
They are also very quiet.
Make sure to do this........do not try and fix this issue later on.......
ATO has been on my list for a long time , I guess I didn't realize how often the water changes were needed with planted. I've been thinking about how to do the drain though, this is in the basement so I can't go down, i'll have to think about how to make this happen. I have a bunch of extra pumps including an extra iwaki 55, perhaps I'll pump to the yard with another float valve/tank....
Automated water changes.
You might pay 200-400$ for this to be plumbed depending...........and it'll be worth every last penny.
A pair of dosing pumps to add enough ferts........
Maybe a decent in line canister filter like a Nu Clear for polishing the water
Yep, right around 200g, there's a joke surrounding long and short in there somewhere, but I'm far too new to go down that road.Long and short. Love it. Thats like 200g, right? I myself have a 210g empty that I can't wait to setup. I can't wait to see what you do for inspiration!
I had this tank specifically built with maintenance in mind, well I also wanted a really long tank . I've had 31" and 24" tall tanks I couldn't reach the bottom or the back without going past my armpit... which was not cool for me. Don't forget maintenance and what a sore back will do to your mental state.Holy crap man that is a loooooong tank. I will be watching this thread as I am saving up right now for a 96" long tank, just I am un-decided on the 22" high (165gal) or 26" high (190gal).