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I'm noticing my CPR setup has the same issue of fluctuating CO2 levels depending on how the drain is operating. If there's a lot of gurgling it struggles to keep up. I had a hoffer gurgle buster style drain on it, but the snails kept messing with it so I reverted back to a DIY OEM style drain.

bigger drain line solves all that :)
 

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Tom, when you trim the Tonina, are you able to salvage any of the bottoms? Cause I've had some in there for over a week and they haven't grown at all yet. Also, does very high light hell with its compact growth and side shoots?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,763 ·
I'm noticing my CPR setup has the same issue of fluctuating CO2 levels depending on how the drain is operating. If there's a lot of gurgling it struggles to keep up. I had a hoffer gurgle buster style drain on it, but the snails kept messing with it so I reverted back to a DIY OEM style drain.

Do you think there's any extra reason to be cautious drilling an older overflow? Does the acrylic become more brittle with age? That's my hesitation in converting to a bean animal style.

Your tank's looking nice as always man. What happened to the EH? Did the fish mess with it too much?
Some Acrylic is cheaper junky stuff, but high grade should handle a fine tooth high speed drill press with very low pressure and slowly drill through it.

Hair line fractures are common around bulkheads.

Note, you can also use those float valve type plumbing in/out let bulk head type of adapters for smaller systems and you can also drill the emergency overflow on the side, since it'll always be higher than the other 2. A simple ball valve will make a large difference in many cases. If you go that route, then a larger pipe dia might be a good idea.

Once set up correctly, such systems are really much easier to care for over time and lily pipes suck eggs.

You also prefilter and catch 98% of the larger filth that clogs normal filters and you tend to clean those more often(you sort of have to). Less rotting leaves and stuff= cleaner nicer tank.

So there are 3 things at least you can do here.

E hdropiper:
Fish and shrimp pulled it all up, but........I did manage to keep one sprig. And I have the M.umbrosum monte carlo also.
It's a creeper and good foreground plant.

The plan is try again with the E hydro and then also do either my 60P or redo the 70 Gal woodagumi with EH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,764 ·
Tom, when you trim the Tonina, are you able to salvage any of the bottoms? Cause I've had some in there for over a week and they haven't grown at all yet. Also, does very high light hell with its compact growth and side shoots?
Depends, if I let the plants grow over say 8-10", they tend to start making side shoots, which I trim just above and replant the tops, and then save those.

Without the side shoots, not much success personally.
I do not think you can add too much light on this plant.
But 1 week is hardly any time to see new growth after getting it.
 

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Re: 120 Gallon ADA "like", ditched, Dutch style with lots of color instead

It took the tonina (got from Tom) a good month in my tank before I started seeing significant new growth. I would just be patient.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,766 ·
You can always look at the dates and see the rates of growth as the height suddenly changes, hopefully the field of view is not blocked, but I might only trim the Tonina once every 1-2 months. Which makes it a nicer plant. Replanting each stem is a fair amount of work, I would not do it if it was like this weekly.



 

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No no no, I didn't just get it I just trimmed it. They're growing very well except for the bottoms, which have done nothing so far (except maybe throw out a couple of aerial roots).
 

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no local dwarf riccia
im placing an order from tpt hobbyist.. as soon as it grows into a thick mat, i'll happily share it with ya. i can't imagine it'll take too long

or would u rather just get sent a small mat when i get it in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,770 ·
no local dwarf riccia
im placing an order from tpt hobbyist.. as soon as it grows into a thick mat, i'll happily share it with ya. i can't imagine it'll take too long

or would u rather just get sent a small mat when i get it in?
Small mat sent would be cool.

I obviously have trade bait.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,771 ·
No no no, I didn't just get it I just trimmed it. They're growing very well except for the bottoms, which have done nothing so far (except maybe throw out a couple of aerial roots).
I think it does best with a little current and ample light from the side(eg a wide spread of lights above).
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,772 ·
Some sections are progressing well, still waiting for some plants for that front section.
The Mic umbrosum monte carlo is growing even if I had one tiny sprig to start. A single sprig of E hydropiper also made it.

Mini pellia is growing in on a few pieces of the wood nicely. I'll tie some more on today.
I much prefer the look of this compared to Fissidens which can get a bit weedy and frags everywhere.

I'm okay with the Rotala macrandra now where it's at, I resisted placing it there for a long long time.
It's relatively manageable in this location also.

UG is always happiest in this far corner.

I'm not entirely happy with the color development of the L acruata, but it's shaded by the main wood and the other Myrio behind it.
I might remove it and then allow the mini butter fly to arc around the back side of the wood over to that location. People by that plant, they do not buy L arcuata really.

I topped 90% of the L senegalensis this time instead of uprooting. Then replanted the tops. Does not give quite as nice look while those tops grow back and the bottoms resprout.
But I'll have a pretty dense even growth after wards. When I topped and replanted only fresh tops, the plants grew much faster also. But I did not get a lot of production for sale....and it's more work.

I'll uproot and replant the Downoi in a week or so, this will clean that spot up some and make it more even/uniform.









 

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hey tom! amazing tank as usual!

i noticed that you don't have a co2 indicator in the photos. how are you measuring your co2 levels?

also i came across your old post and loved what you said but have a question about it.

11/29/11
"I've changed Nothing really, just that SOB overflow screwed my CO2 to Hades. Ferts/light/sediment, all the same, but a massive difference in the end result. The CPR prefilter was 10X better choice for the tank.
Just a minor issue with CO2 makes all the difference.

I nag all the time about this, but when you can carefully measure the light and adjust it to within 1-2 umol and the ferts/sediment are the same, tap water and care all, the same, you really end up with only one variable.

And if you target that before you add fish/shrimp etc and use the plants as a good indicator....then you have the turkey cooked good.
"

so how does one begin to even target the right balance of light? and then co2?
can i ask how many hours your lights are on daily?

thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,778 ·
hey tom! amazing tank as usual!

i noticed that you don't have a co2 indicator in the photos. how are you measuring your co2 levels?

also i came across your old post and loved what you said but have a question about it.

11/29/11
"I've changed Nothing really, just that SOB overflow screwed my CO2 to Hades. Ferts/light/sediment, all the same, but a massive difference in the end result. The CPR prefilter was 10X better choice for the tank.
Just a minor issue with CO2 makes all the difference.

I nag all the time about this, but when you can carefully measure the light and adjust it to within 1-2 umol and the ferts/sediment are the same, tap water and care all, the same, you really end up with only one variable.

And if you target that before you add fish/shrimp etc and use the plants as a good indicator....then you have the turkey cooked good.
"

so how does one begin to even target the right balance of light? and then co2?
can i ask how many hours your lights are on daily?

thank you!
You mean a drop checker? I do not use them, hate them.
I've got a few different methods to measure CO2, mostly pH and KH and then some other test to see if there's any non carbonate KH in the tap water.
Then apply the pH/KH chart. Then I've made some known CO2 solutions in a sealed flask. This way I can check to confirm my methods.

No one else seems to bother doing that step. A couple have suggested it using paint ball 12 gram CO2 cartridges, but can you see someone trying to add all that gas into solution into a flask that's sealed without loss?
Know weight of gas etc, but really really hard to dose and dissolve into the water without loss. I think they said it just to BS me, I tried it and it was PITA and would break the glass flask etc.

I use the carts for re inflating bike tires, so I have plenty.

I used dry Ice, frozen CO2 gas.
I'm quick between sealing it into a known solution(KH reference DI water mix) and the tank water (KH measured). Since we have a known volume of water and known weight and one case a known KH made entirely from carbonates and DI water, we have the mg/l or ppms.

If the pH/KH match up, then we know the KH is all carbonate and we can use the chart.

If not, we can make adjustments to account for the pH difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,779 ·
h
I nag all the time about this, but when you can carefully measure the light and adjust it to within 1-2 umol and the ferts/sediment are the same, tap water and care all, the same, you really end up with only one variable.

And if you target that before you add fish/shrimp etc and use the plants as a good indicator....then you have the turkey cooked good.
"

so how does one begin to even target the right balance of light? and then co2?
can i ask how many hours your lights are on daily?

thank you!
I use a light meter, Hoppy has an estimative index of light based on distance and lighting types, plenty of data to come pretty close for a lot of lighting types/set ups with a light meter. This will give you a good range and compare to other folk's light values.

Then you just work on CO2, CO2 is not as simple as it seems, it'll burn every and anyone. By far the most dangerous and hardest thing to master.
 

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I use a light meter, Hoppy has an estimative index of light based on distance and lighting types, plenty of data to come pretty close for a lot of lighting types/set ups with a light meter. This will give you a good range and compare to other folk's light values.

Then you just work on CO2, CO2 is not as simple as it seems, it'll burn every and anyone. By far the most dangerous and hardest thing to master.
yep, i read hoppy's thread here and estimate that my light is med-high considering it's height and bulb position.

so knowing that, i guess my only other variable is to control the length of my light's timing and co2 levels?

how many hours did you leave your lights on to start off with? i'm assuming you adjusted it as you went on to balance your co2 levels along with plant growth, yes?

you don't have to go into it but your co2 drop checker explanation went completely over my head.. haha -_-
:icon_eek:
 
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