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LOL.. i just ripped my eye sockets out.. i can't believe im seeing all these red plants!!!!

if i buy a red plant today. three days later its shoots come out red and then turn green and then all new shoots turn green. WHY? frustration level creeping. ahh sadness ill get there eventually
Tom i like this tank very very much. the downoi is the kicker for me. i like how youv'e run it at an angle
 

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I take the runts and side shoots and plant them in the front area, this provides nice growing conditions for the Downoi and other stem plants, the mother plants are about the size of a racquetball.

I think there's this automated thing that believes we can just use parameters and such, and we all should have the same results.

Well, tap water, cleaning filters, the type of filters, consistency, 1001 shrimp picking and cleaning...........a nice wide T5 light that's 20" wide and have very nice spread..... but I'm maintaining and gardening this tank vs neglecting it.........

All these things add up.

The 120 gal before I had issues with. It did okay, but there was alaways some CO2 issue with the built in overflow.... So I started over and redid things.

I've changed Nothing really, just that SOB overflow screwed my CO2 to Hades. Ferts/light/sediment, all the same, but a massive difference in the end result. The CPR prefilter was 10X better choice for the tank.
Just a minor issue with CO2 makes all the difference.

I nag all the time about this, but when you can carefully measure the light and adjust it to within 1-2 umol and the ferts/sediment are the same, tap water and care all, the same, you really end up with only one variable.

And if you target that before you add fish/shrimp etc and use the plants as a good indicator....then you have the turkey cooked good.

that said.. and going off your other post. you are using a CPR overflow for ur woodagmi. is that what u used on this tank to correct the mass waste of c02? also do u run a closed wet/dry to prevent more off gassing or do you leave it open?
also to touch on it. what is your preference to c02 dissolution? i haven't seen any airlines in pictures so im assuming a reactor or inline atomizer.
while im at it. what is your preference on bulbs and bulb temps? does it change from tank to tank or do you run a standard?
 

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HMM.. i have geisseman powerchrome and geisseman whatever it is aquaflora i think as well. so far im not too happy either.. bright yes. but the coloring isn't what i'd look for. very... yellow
anyways lemme know how the starcoats go. they were 2nd on the list for me to try

mist is unnatractive for sue but is there a benefit to having the mist? or is it better to have 100% dissolution?

also if the dry, and overflow sections are sealed how does air get sucked down into the dry section? i feel like i may have missed somethign there. i know the overflow frm cpr has a vent tube but the overflow is sealed?
 

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i definitely agree. the fissidens look rockin. but it is your tank. i can see why you wouldn't like them, but their contrast in color and flowy shape make sthem really stand out in this tank

as for the mist. my otos and pleco seem to not like it as much. before i used a reactor and to downsize i went with inline diffuser. im runnig very close to the same ppm c02 with calibrated kh bottles. also so according to hach c02 test kit. the bubbles get stuck under the flaps that force water over their gills and they freak out occaisionally. my ottos do a circular pattern on the glass then fall off when the bubbles build up. if i increase flow i nthe tank to 31x turnover it helps make the bubbles smaller and they don't seem affected much. the pleco gets just plain stupid
i haven't noticed a huge difference other than on bigger leafed plants c02 bubbles will form under the leaf. and lower down in the tank where plants would previously not pearl i see a few 02 bubbles sticking to the top of leaves.
no noticable increase in growth or color
bba also seems harder to manage this way versus more dissolution
 

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Light, CO2 and ferts, it's in ADA aqua soil amazonia(see AFA or ADG for sales in the USA for ADA products)

I have lots of shrimp, and you will often see it covered with BBA or cladophora infested in the middle of the spikey ball, hard to remove, I take great pains removing any such leaves, algae from them. Bladderwort also can be an issue, or even the moss, like Fissidens.

Fragments get into nice plants like these, or downoi, or ruin a nice stand of Hairgrass belem etc.

Plant weeds in planted tanks are a real serious problem for me, I'm very aggressive about removal and checking plants before and after I add them to my tanks.

I would like to do a Iwagumi with only Erio cinreum.
so if i read this properly the erio constantly has algae growth on old leaves in the center of the mass? could this be flow caused or just typical of this plant?
 

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Well now that u have then. Let me know how you feel about the starcoats. Im interested as i have two bulbs that are more reef oriented in conjunction with my geisseman buulbs. Ones a new sunn 12k and a midday red which looks RED. Together with giesseman bulbs looks really fantasic but they wont grow poop on their own. Ive used them for midday burst and have really helped my macrandra redden up nicely
 

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Man i really need a par meter. I feel like im pretty low light but bba iis my enemy. Ive added and added c02. My fish are at upper bounds of c02. Lights are 34 inches from substrate. Im really thinking knowing how much light in the water would be beneficial at this point


oh yeah and plants don't go red unless i increase light... oxygen saturation is not a problem here either..
ALSO i don't even get glass algae. ever. never ever anymore. haven't cleaned my glass in 3 months now. and still no signs!!
no thread or fuzz. just black on a few pieces of hardscape. and about 3 nodes down of new growth on most plants... ARGHGHGH
 

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i have a decent fish load. i agree that no fish would be pointless.
filter maintenance. wc's plant trimming is all awesome to me. i enjoy all of it. the care of the tank in general is fun!

flow of the tank is what i guess i would consider awesome. c02 comes on 1 hour and a half before lights.
all plants are swaying fairly aggressively. not so much they got uprooted but most leaves on all my plants move. i have good dissolution of c02. and a nice mist that comes out as well.
i've done high light pretty well actually. too much trimming for my taste. thats all i did was trim and replant. trm and replant


any insight?

i've jacked your thread and i apologize but im basically seeking your time in experience
 

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I see. I havent given up nor will i. I actually changed from an inline diffuser back to a cerge stylle reactor. I felt i had better growth there. Also my water from the tap is 4dgh and i almost religiously added gh booster following fert regime and i noticed plants grew slower than before but i figured it was my fault somehow. Thats being backed off. Surface agitation is being backed off and im playing with the lights again.
I actually took a picture with no light filtering and found that my tank was a huge glare. Even at 34 inches above substrate im still getting more light than i probably should.. we shall see. Thanks for the support
 

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A few posts up you were talking about the significance of not only CO2 levels, but how it's added to the water. What is your take on the oft recommended strategy to have the CO2 bubble go straight into a canister intake to get mixed? Does that damage the biological filter? Does it decrease the life of the filter or otherwise have drawbacks as a method of mixing?

Thanks for sharing all your tips and experience. It's fun to read your posts.
i can add to that. it will slightly impact the bio filter especially if it pools up in spots and prevents the bacteria from getting necessary oxygen

the bubbles will slowly deteriorate you impeller. as long as you don't mind replacing that and make sure ur filter media is very free flowing at all times. it will work as an OK option
 

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well since u know a lot about the needle wheel inudstry. how would one go about finding one for a sump build. i've often thought of doing it but everyone shoo'ed me away for fear of off gassing but since i've come to the conclusion that off gassin so far isn't bad with all my surface agitation and even a fine pore air stone run very low for good disolution. im ready to try a sump out and the cpr stuff really does look nice.

im looking at the cs50 overflow. its a 300gph.. what pump would you personally recommend for a 4 foot head? i will have a little restriction i nthe way with my cerge so im trying to get close to the 300 mark and i have no clue where to start with pumps
 

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so would it be feasible to just run the needle wheel as the return. or is it better to run return pump and needle wheel together?

that is the 29 gallon. the 75g is a build in progress right now but i haven't really made it public yet


also just updated the 29g with some shots from 12/05/2011. tank has really taken off since then.. especially the last few days

also did some diy led's on the fixture for nighttime viewing. which look absolutely sick. the shimmer affect is amazing and there is just enough light to see detail but not inconvenience the plants and fish. they do get turned off
 

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I LOVE WATER CHANGES! i've made them about as easy as possible without automating. the effect however is immediate on fauna. i like how everyone becomes more active :)

im also going to say the cerge is a Godsend.. the inline atomizer has a mist just like what is picture in ur tanks.. pearlign was better. plant growth was not. c02 was very inconsistent apparently.


so u recommend 2 water changes a week consistently or taper them off over time?
 

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NEGATORY on the led's just made some diy moonlights. they are sweet but i wouldn't want leds for the full sun effect.

dimmable 5's are probably more the route i'd go in the future

and i get there is more work. just the way u made it sound seemed like 2x a week would be more of a consistent recommendation.
 
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