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120 Gal Dutchy Freestyle - Now with 35% less water volume!

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549K views 1.9K replies 221 participants last post by  TRyan  
#1 · (Edited)
So this is a journal for my new 120, which replaces my long running 75 gallon. For anyone who followed the previous tank, this one will be basically the same style with just a bigger footprint.

First planting, about 2 months ago.

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Tank

48" x 24" x 24" Marineland 120 gal


CO2

GLA Grow 1 regulator, 10 lb tank.

DIY PVC reactor. Main pipe is 3" x 24"

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CO2 cuts on 90 min before the lights, goes off 1 hour before. PH drops 1.1 by lights on, proceeds on down 1.3-1.4 at peak. Livestock are fine at this level, heavy flow and good surface agitation helps.


Filtration

Two canisters: 1 Aquatop CF 500, and 1 Hydor Pro 600

Measured flow combined is about 600 gph.

1 Koralia Nano 425 for added circulation

Both canisters have SunSun intakes with the skimmer

Left corner is the the Aquatop. Using a 1" outflow pipe to reduce velocity (the in-tank flow is crazy!)

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Right corner is the Hydor. The CO2 runs inline with this one.

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^also you can see my LED night lights, mounted on each end of the main fixture.

Substrate:

Black Diamond blasting sand


Lighting

6 bulb T5HO hydroponic unit

https://www.amazon.com/Agrobrite-Designer-FLP46-6-Tube-Fixture/dp/B002TJQ61W

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Bulbs are front to back:

TrueLumen Flora
Agrobrite 6400K
Zoo-med Flora
Plantmax 3000K
ATI Purple
TrueLumen Flora

Fixture is 9" above the tank, PAR at the sub is around 120. Having lots of red bulbs help keep it down, not to mention awesome color rendition. PAR would be a lot higher at this distance with more 6500Ks, for example


Ferts

Macros 3x week
7.5 ppm KNO3
1.3 ppm K2PO4
3 ppm K2SO4 (for 6-7 total K)

Micros 3x week
.015 Fe from csmb
.02 ppm Fe dtpa

** Micros are more now because Im rolling my own instead of using csmb. Will update the amounts once I arrive at the sweet spot.

50%-60% water change every 6-7 days

Livestock

25 Harlequin Rasboras, will soon get this up to maybe 30 or so
6-7 otos
Trio of young German Blue Rams, just coming into their adult colors
10-12 Amano shrimp


Here's the latest rendition. Plant groups are no way shaped for height or footprints. Mainly just tentative placeholders of where things are going to be. Have lots of ideas to try, and open to any suggestions! :)

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Detailed plant pics to follow....
 
#1,934 ·
Just finished reading all 97 pages. Some of them multiple times. So much good info in here! Thank you Burr, for taking us all along on your journey!

Are you still dosing 25/9/35 NO3/PO4/K plus 5 Mg all front loaded after 75-90% WC? and micros @ .17 Fe 3X weekly?
Are you using KNO3 and KH2PO4 for macros or are you also using K2SO4?

My micro mix and bottle should be here on Tuesday.

Thank you @burr740
 
#1,935 · (Edited)
Just finished reading all 97 pages. Some of them multiple times. So much good info in here! Thank you Burr, for taking us all along on your journey!

Are you still dosing 25/9/35 NO3/PO4/K plus 5 Mg all front loaded after 75-90% WC? and micros @ .17 Fe 3X weekly?
Are you using KNO3 and KH2PO4 for macros or are you also using K2SO4?

My micro mix and bottle should be here on Tuesday.

Thank you @burr740
Thanks Tim! A few months ago I went back to 50% water changes. Initially just to save time and ferts because with 10 big tanks it really adds up, lol

But having done it for a few months again now I feel like its a little easier to keep things stable. Not a huge difference either way but everything in general just seems better

No longer front loading macros with 50% WCs. My macro mix adds 4.5/1.5/7 per dose. I do two doses after the WC and then two more through the week, skipping a day between in typical 3x per week fashion

I use KNO3, KH2PO4, and KCL (KCL because it dissolves easier than K2SO4)

Micros are the custom blend at .15 ppm Fe per dose (same thing youre getting) I do that 3x week beginning the day after the WC

Totals for the week - 18/6/28 and .45 Fe combined with 50% water changes

My tap comes with 30-35 Ca and 5 Mg. Lately Im not adding any additional Mg and cant tell any difference really. Although on paper an extra 5 or so would be ideal. Honestly Ive never seen a concrete difference between adding 5, 10 or even 15 extra Mg. And Ive spent good amounts of time doing all those

Keep me posted how the micros work out


Obligatory pic here's a 75 gal that needs a trim :)

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#1,938 · (Edited)
It would totally depend on the set up, substrate, type of plants, light, fish load etc

Fresh aquasoil/other rich sub may not need anything but a little K and Fe (API Leaf Zone, Tetra Flora-whatever, available anywhere)

Heavy fish load with a less rich sub, same

Root tabs can help a lot, but generally wont carry the load entirely. Plants do best when they can pull K and Fe from the water column (low or high-tech) A rich sub can often cover everything else esp with low tech

Moving into higher light and/or inert subs I would go with something like 5/2/10 and .1 Fe, once or twice a week. 25-30% water changes

Speaking of low-tech, by that I mean no additional co2, a common myth is that light needs to be kept low. Thats not true. Just like high-tech tanks too much light does not cause algae. Unhappy plants and/or dirty conditions is what causes algae. So keeping the goal of happy plants in mind, just like ferts you want as much light as the plants can use

Idk if any of you guys know Sudipta Shaw or have seen his tanks on social media, guy is an absolute wizard when it comes to growing plants without co2 injection. He's single handedly changed a lot of the dogma surrounding what a low tech set up can achieve

Here's one of his tanks, except for whats on the log these arent rookie plants for any set up

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Big light (150 PAR at the sub!!) moderately rich sub, low-moderate ferts, low KH and lower temp

He actually has a brief journal here on tpt if you wanna read more about his methods. No matter what kind of tank you run we can all learn a lot from this man. I have

Like I said absolute wizard - sudiorca