Automatic Water change system valve question - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Automatic Water change system valve question

I'm still trying to design an automatic water change system for my aquarium. I'm looking for an inexpensive solenoid valve for draining the aquarium water that doesn't need much head pressure to operate effectively.

I was originally planning on using a sprinkler solenoid, but have found out that there must be at least 5 PSI of head pressure for it to open.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 09:42 PM
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What would you call inexpensive? This is 1/2" application right? What is your controller?

Want to see more...check out my website
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brilliant View Post
What would you call inexpensive? This is 1/2" application right? What is your controller?
I've got a 4 zone sprinkler controller and a few 24VAC DPDT 10 amp relays. This will work fine for any 120 VAC solenoid valves.

What do I call inexpensive? Hopefully less than $100 each. I need a pair of them. I'd prefer 3/4" or 1" rather than 1/2", but 1/2" will do just fine.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 03:22 AM
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I'm pretty sure if you put the solenoid into the return line of your cannister that you'd have 5 psi...
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 07:02 PM
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Have you considered going 3/8 inch BLACK poly (1/4' I.D.) from US Plastics? About $12 per 100 feet of high PSI tubing (Polyethelene).

Asco makes a nice quality 3/8 oriface solenoid for about $75 which I bought from Grainger Inc..

I use an Eheim hobby pump to speedup/ push the water around 22 feet to a drain saddle. From a tee in the outflow of an XP3. Takes about an hour to drain ~ 40 gallons. I

use mostly John Guest fittings so its real easy to plumb and doesn't leak.

You can PM me if you want some part numbers or look at the thread here: https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ge...cool-auto.html





Three Tanks...Eheim 2128 & XP3-90G, Eheim 2128-65G, Eheim 2232-25G.... Tek 4x54 watt T5-90G, Aqualight 96watt PC 65G low tech, 65 watt Aqualight-25G.... Hydors-90G & 65G ... Flourite in 90, 65, & 25 Gallons, .... Auto Water Change/Auto dosing on 90 & 65 gallon..... AGA member......
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-25-2007, 11:32 PM
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OK let me know if your interested in 2way stainless 24v controlvalve. We can talk more about your control signal and see if it is compatible.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 12:23 AM
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How are you planning on draining--Via canister, gravity, pump in the tank/sump.....? Several different ways to approach it....

HTH


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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 03:42 AM
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Anyone have any suggestions on how I should approach putting in a selenoid for my auto water changer in a copper plumbed house? I've not given it much thought yet but hope to be starting to get into the plumbing shortly.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 11:42 AM
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you need to cut out the copper tubing, then transition to PVC using the "rubber boot transition" fitting on both side of the cut. Simply add your PVC fittings as necessary.

Here is one... http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...100&lpage=none


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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 03:00 PM
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Thanks for the info. BTW you linked to (after I told it my zip) "American ValveŽ
4" PVC x 4" Clay Coupling" do they make those small enough to transitions from small copper to small pvc? On second thought, perhaps it would be better to put a Y on the [cold water] faucet for the wash machine, that way it wont be so permanent (I hope to move in a couple years or so) and pretty easy to do.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Betowess View Post

Asco makes a nice quality 3/8 oriface solenoid for about $75 which I bought from Grainger Inc..
I took a look at Graingers website looking for what you suggest. Closest I happened to find is this its 3/8", a gas-shutoff, $61, 0psi difference. I forget exactly if the threads are different on gas equipment, would that be a NPT thread or something else?
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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OK let me know if your interested in 2way stainless 24v controlvalve. We can talk more about your control signal and see if it is compatible.
My sprinkler timer is a pretty standard 24VAC unit that can handle about 300mA (about 8W). Please let me know more about these 24 volt control valves you speak of. With the addition of $16 relays from Grainger, each zone can be set to power a 120 volt pump/valve, or a more demanding 24 volt pump/valve.

The design I'm looking for:
My water has chloramines, so I want to setup a 30 gal. holding tank. The holding tank will get filled by 1/8" solenoid from autotopoff.com (zone 3 on the sprinkler timer). A peristaltic pump will pump in 15ml of AMMO-Lock to neutralize the chlorine and ammonia (zone 4 on the timer).

I want to gravity drain the display tank via a solenoid (zone 1 on the timer), and then gravity feed water from the holding tank into the display tank via a solenoid (zone 2 on the timer). This is where I need the solenoids that require no differential pressure.

I believe I found a fairly inexpensive valve solution, but I will not know for sure until they arrive. I will post my findings either way once I test them. Whatever system I decide on, I will provide a fully detailed drawing on my aquarium's journal which I will be starting soon.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy loaches View Post
Thanks for the info. BTW you linked to (after I told it my zip) "American ValveŽ
4" PVC x 4" Clay Coupling" do they make those small enough to transitions from small copper to small pvc? On second thought, perhaps it would be better to put a Y on the [cold water] faucet for the wash machine, that way it wont be so permanent (I hope to move in a couple years or so) and pretty easy to do.

I apologize...i thought it was for a copper drain...not the supply. You can use a self puncturing needle valve and saddle. the kind they use for ice makers on refrigerators. You can pick up one of these kits pretty cheap at any major hardware store.

Sorry about the confusion.

these kits usually come with supply line too...vinyl or "flexible" copper tubing. the directions are self explanatory if you have a little bit of know how. But it sounds like you do...


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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-28-2007, 05:34 PM
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I found a 3/8" direct-acting (i.e., no pressure needed) valve at McMaster for $38; see page 434 of their online catalog.

www.mcmaster.com; do a search for 7876K12
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-29-2007, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PDX-PLT View Post
I found a 3/8" direct-acting (i.e., no pressure needed) valve at McMaster for $38; see page 434 of their online catalog.

www.mcmaster.com; do a search for 7876K12
Thank you very much for that link. Those valves look like they'll work very well, and I like the fact they're not metal.

The valves I ended up getting are the ASCO 8030 series solenoids. I picked up one 1/2" SS (8030G66) for $28 w/shipping and one 1/2" brass (8030G16) for $35 w/shipping off eBay.

Valve info here: http://www.valve-store.com/8030.html

Ebay auctions: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=120113693494
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=330020180222

I've received the brass valve already, and in my initial test, it works like a champ. I'm now pretty certain that I've found my valves, but thank you all for all your help.
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