Automatic Water change system valve question - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2007, 04:45 AM
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PDX - thanks for the heads up that might be exactly what I need for my auto water changer. Unfortunately it looks like the ASCO ones Megalops are low pressure and I'm not sure but I think standard cold water line pressure is too much for them so they wouldnt work for me.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2007, 11:44 PM
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You're welcome. I usually have better luck with McMaster than Grainger - lower prices, they ship the same day, and low shipping.

I ordered one myself and will report how well it works. Ordered a bunch of PVC tubing, barbed fittings, and clamps, too. 'prices are better than what you get from aquarium sites. In particular, if you need a check valve, look at the PVC Swing Check Valves on page 456 - good price, high max. pressure and CV factor, and low cracking pressure; ~$10 for a 3/4" in white PVC, although I paid a bit more for the clear one.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-01-2007, 01:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy loaches View Post
PDX - thanks for the heads up that might be exactly what I need for my auto water changer. Unfortunately it looks like the ASCO ones Megalops are low pressure and I'm not sure but I think standard cold water line pressure is too much for them so they wouldnt work for me.
The 8030 series Asco valves will not work on city line pressure. I'm using mine for gravity drain applications. For my fill valve which is City water, I'm using one of the solenoids from autotopoff.com: http://www.autotopoff.com/products/solenoid/index.htm

Asco does make many different series valves which can handle higher pressures, notably the 8210 series. The nice thing about asco valves, is that they're readily available on eBay. I could not find one for less $$$ than the autotopoff valve, so that is why I went with that one.
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-01-2007, 02:51 AM
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PDX - yeah I've actually ordered lots from Mcmaster.com in the past - mostly things like 1/4" thick copper bus bars and 2" solid brass rod for my other hobbies that involve current in the tens of thousands of amps range I did however just buy some pvc parts from aquacave... not sure how they compared to mcmaster but I got 1" clear swing check valves with true union both ends for $14.95. Seemed like a good deal to me.

Megalops - thanks for reminding me of the autotopoff solenoid. I'd been to them before looking for parts I just didnt recall they had em for that cheap. Its a little smaller than I was looking at but I suppose the difference is negligible, though I'm not entirely familiar with those style hook ups.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-01-2007, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by crazy loaches View Post
Megalops - thanks for reminding me of the autotopoff solenoid. I'd been to them before looking for parts I just didnt recall they had em for that cheap. Its a little smaller than I was looking at but I suppose the difference is negligible, though I'm not entirely familiar with those style hook ups.
FYI, the autotopoff solenoids have a CV factor of 0.28, versus 0.45 for the McMaster valve. So at a given pressure, the flow through the autotopoff valve will only be 55% of what it would be through the McMaster valve.
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post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-30-2020, 08:31 PM
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This is a great thread

I'm actually trying to do the same

need a 1/2" or 3/4" 12v gravity fed normally closed solenoid that will gravity drain the tank.
Found a few cases but looking to spend less than $100 and the kasa control bar already eats a big portion of this budget

Quote:
Originally Posted by Megalops View Post

The design I'm looking for:
My water has chloramines, so I want to setup a 30 gal. holding tank. The holding tank will get filled by 1/8" solenoid from autotopoff.com (zone 3 on the sprinkler timer). A peristaltic pump will pump in 15ml of AMMO-Lock to neutralize the chlorine and ammonia (zone 4 on the timer).

I want to gravity drain the display tank via a solenoid (zone 1 on the timer), and then gravity feed water from the holding tank into the display tank via a solenoid (zone 2 on the timer). This is where I need the solenoids that require no differential pressure.

I believe I found a fairly inexpensive valve solution, but I will not know for sure until they arrive. I will post my findings either way once I test them. Whatever system I decide on, I will provide a fully detailed drawing on my aquarium's journal which I will be starting soon.
Trying to replicate.

I found the actual thread where they described how everything worked
This is awesome and looks much better than other things that I've seen

Last edited by monkeyruler90; 06-30-2020 at 08:46 PM. Reason: updated with link
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