Check valve before or after bubble counter? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-29-2020, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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I noticed the water level in my bubble counter is low (below the inlet stem) and there is water inside the inlet hose. I currently have my check valve downstream of the bubble counter (tank side). Should it be installed upstream of the bubble counter? Does the back siphoning indicate there is a leak somewhere? When I started to loosen the cap of the bubble counter, the water in the hose upstream rushed back into the BC and filled it up to where it was originally.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-01-2020, 12:37 AM
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I took my bubble counter off the metering valve cause I noticed the check valve was failing and water was draining into the metering valve and possibly the solenoid. I put on barbed fittings and moved the bubble counter to be in-line near the aquarium. An external check valve is in-between the bubble counter and the regulator now.

If you have a bubble counter on your regulator setup, you can get a Swagelok check valve that will go between the metering valve and the bubble counter. I don't trust the internal bubble counter check valve.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-01-2020, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capsaicin_MFK View Post
I took my bubble counter off the metering valve cause I noticed the check valve was failing and water was draining into the metering valve and possibly the solenoid. I put on barbed fittings and moved the bubble counter to be in-line near the aquarium. An external check valve is in-between the bubble counter and the regulator now.

If you have a bubble counter on your regulator setup, you can get a Swagelok check valve that will go between the metering valve and the bubble counter. I don't trust the internal bubble counter check valve.

I'm not sure I even need a check valve because the regulator is 30 ft away. Nonetheless, I put one between the BC and aquarium to prevent siphoning out of the aquarium. Except now I'm getting siphoning out of the BC. My other tank doesn't do this and the only difference is the CV comes before the BC.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-01-2020, 02:56 PM
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Yeah, having to refill the bubblecounter every other day got annoying. After placing it in-line I haven't had to refill mine.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-01-2020, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capsaicin_MFK View Post
I took my bubble counter off the metering valve cause I noticed the check valve was failing and water was draining into the metering valve and possibly the solenoid. I put on barbed fittings and moved the bubble counter to be in-line near the aquarium. An external check valve is in-between the bubble counter and the regulator now.



If you have a bubble counter on your regulator setup, you can get a Swagelok check valve that will go between the metering valve and the bubble counter. I don't trust the internal bubble counter check valve.



Do you happen to know the part number for the swagelock check valve you are talking about?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-01-2020, 06:37 PM
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Do you happen to know the part number for the swagelock check valve you are talking about?
https://www.swagelok.com/downloads/w.../ms-01-176.pdf

You will want a low cracking pressure. This means it takes less pressure to make the check valve work.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-01-2020, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CommonCurt View Post
Do you happen to know the part number for the swagelock check valve you are talking about?
https://www.swagelok.com/downloads/w.../MS-01-176.pdf
most common are C series 1/3 or 1 psi cracking pressure, but they are compression tube ports, need adapters.
swagelok don't make check valves with 1/8 npt port.

but

Parker Hannifin has the equivalent quality check valves, they also have 1/8 npt ports version.
SMC is another good brand with good stainless steel check valves, and if you dig deep, you will see other names too.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-05-2020, 03:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capsaicin_MFK View Post
https://www.swagelok.com/downloads/w.../ms-01-176.pdf

You will want a low cracking pressure. This means it takes less pressure to make the check valve work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
https://www.swagelok.com/downloads/w.../MS-01-176.pdf
most common are C series 1/3 or 1 psi cracking pressure, but they are compression tube ports, need adapters.
swagelok don't make check valves with 1/8 npt port.

but

Parker Hannifin has the equivalent quality check valves, they also have 1/8 npt ports version.
SMC is another good brand with good stainless steel check valves, and if you dig deep, you will see other names too.

Okay, thanks guys.
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