Minimal Flow to not hurt floating plants??? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Minimal Flow to not hurt floating plants???

Hello all, my first post here!

I am posting because my better half and I started a little outdoor pond project this year, and said better half (lets call her Mother Nature) she had decided that some snails from the petstore and some Watter Cabbage (Pistia Stratiotes) would be a good method to control algae growth. And lo and behold this rather amateur project has proved quite successful actually, gotta give her credit. However, living in a northern climate (about 42 deg lattitude) I realize the first frost will be on us sooner than we know it and Mother Nature dosent want the snails or the water cabbage to freeze so we have been discussing building a planted aquarium to over winter our new aquatic friends... so here I am.

We have been gathering equipment slowly and recently have found a 60 gallon glass tank w/ a stand for a song on craigslist thats 4 ft long and 12 inches wide and say maybe 20 inches deep or so. Long and narrow but tested with No leaks, and its really accelerated our progress of getting ready before the fall.



The water cabbage dosent like any consistent water movement. It just likes to sit and in our outdoor pond and the ones that get caught near our little water fountain pump really take a beating from a simple water of stream if they stay there awhile.


So I have been looking at wavemakers with low flow rates to give my tank a bit of circulation but not enough to disturb the Water Cabbage. Alot of them have thousands of gallons per hour flow rates... So my question in a nut shell, is what is a good flow rate to target for a long narrow tank to get enough circulation but not enough to hurt my plants. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 12:04 AM
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I have floaters on a tank with a hang on back filter, and to solve this problem I just used some gutter guard to make a ring around the filter output. It keeps them from getting tumbled under.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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Ok thats great to know because I have that same style filter on order expected next week. I was envisioning putting a wave maker the opposite side of the tank to make sure everywhere had adequate CO2 for the plants and O2 for the fish we are planning on getting.

Is the over the back filter enough to keep everything homogenous?
Any advice on placement of a heater relative to the filter? does it matter?
Also, we are planning on adding a CO2 diffuser to the tank, does the position of that matter either?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlantedAquNewb View Post
Hello all, my first post here!

I am posting because my better half and I started a little outdoor pond project this year, and said better half (lets call her Mother Nature) she had decided that some snails from the petstore and some Watter Cabbage (Pistia Stratiotes) would be a good method to control algae growth. And lo and behold this rather amateur project has proved quite successful actually, gotta give her credit. However, living in a northern climate (about 42 deg lattitude) I realize the first frost will be on us sooner than we know it and Mother Nature dosent want the snails or the water cabbage to freeze so we have been discussing building a planted aquarium to over winter our new aquatic friends... so here I am.

We have been gathering equipment slowly and recently have found a 60 gallon glass tank w/ a stand for a song on craigslist thats 4 ft long and 12 inches wide and say maybe 20 inches deep or so. Long and narrow but tested with No leaks, and its really accelerated our progress of getting ready before the fall.



The water cabbage dosent like any consistent water movement. It just likes to sit and in our outdoor pond and the ones that get caught near our little water fountain pump really take a beating from a simple water of stream if they stay there awhile.


So I have been looking at wavemakers with low flow rates to give my tank a bit of circulation but not enough to disturb the Water Cabbage. Alot of them have thousands of gallons per hour flow rates... So my question in a nut shell, is what is a good flow rate to target for a long narrow tank to get enough circulation but not enough to hurt my plants. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Nowadays when im setting a tank for s friend and always advice adding some snails and shrimps for lower maintenance

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 02:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlantedAquNewb View Post
Ok thats great to know because I have that same style filter on order expected next week. I was envisioning putting a wave maker the opposite side of the tank to make sure everywhere had adequate CO2 for the plants and O2 for the fish we are planning on getting.



Is the over the back filter enough to keep everything homogenous?

Any advice on placement of a heater relative to the filter? does it matter?

Also, we are planning on adding a CO2 diffuser to the tank, does the position of that matter either?
I have a 37 column (18 x 20 x 24 tall), and the AC 50 does ok with my low bioload. I have the intake tube as low as I can get it and the heater vertical next to it. It's not a lot of current, but it works fine for what I have (guppy fry and shrimp).

With the dimensions of your tank, you may want 2 filters, one on each side.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 04:58 AM
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Floating plants get CO2 from air, CO2 content of water not of much concern.

I just make a float ring of airline tube and tie it up under filter outflow so my red root floaters don’t get pulled into output flow of filter. In pic here it’s hard to see but there is a 4” ring tied up under filters outflow. Just like the little 2”feeding ring you see at front edge of photo just bigger.



Don’t by those water circulation pump that are 250gph or higher, their way to strong for planted tank. Get like a aquaclear powerhead 20 which is just about 100gph if you want some extra movement. Probably not needed, hob filter probably enough. With bare tank and just floaters you probably only need about 300gph max.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunsen Honeydew View Post
I have floaters on a tank with a hang on back filter, and to solve this problem I just used some gutter guard to make a ring around the filter output. It keeps them from getting tumbled under.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
I use an airline tube. I make a circular formation, with 1 side flat that goes around the filter and, since i dont want to stop this type of gas exchange for MY tank, this airline tube stop the water wave propagation after 3 inches of the filter "mouth" (you do your size). This is actually protecting the area where the filter hits the water from plants, making possible gas exchanges. Thats cause i have duckweed in my tank (i added it, i control it, its not a plague for me, its another way i found to check my aquarium parameters within time before hitting the fish, its beautiful surface carpeting when controlled as well)

Thinking better, this is not helpful for the thread issue....but could be for someone else's tank in this post, so im posting anyway lmao.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 10:37 PM
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I've tried to use airline tubing, but it always seemed to retain the kinks from being in the package. I keep using the gutter guard because i spent 4 bucks on a roll once years ago and still have it.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-10-2020, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Bunsen Honeydew View Post
I've tried to use airline tubing, but it always seemed to retain the kinks from being in the package. I keep using the gutter guard because i spent 4 bucks on a roll once years ago and still have it.
Yeah thats always something annoying with the tubes, cause you have to boil water, drop them in and change their format quick enough to sink it in a cold water bucket, they stay straight, but thats some work to do lol

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