How much aeration is needed at night to gas off the co2? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-23-2020, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
jdk
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How much aeration is needed at night to gas off the co2?

Hi, i have this newly rescaped (the tank had been running for a month previously) 30 gal aquascape tank and currently do not have a solenoid valve (im currently ordering it as im typing).

I had the co2 flow controller set so that no co2 comes out at night for the whole month. But there suddenly seems to be something broken inside when i checked a minute ago and now i cant set it so that there would be completely no co2 coming out. I've already set the airstones and the aeration right now is probably so high that even the tetras that come near the airstones gets swept away instantly. I wouldnt worry about the fishes getting stressed as they can easily find a spot with no current.


Now here is the question. Because i dont have my solenoid valve yet, how much aeration is needed so that its enough to gas off the co2 and make everything safe? Im also worried about the amount of aeration needed because the co2 drop checker doesn't seem to be turning blue. Pls reply asap if you have any answers or suggestions.

Thanks
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-23-2020, 04:59 PM
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oh that does seem problematic,

the only answer is going to be to aerate until the drop checker is blue even with the CO2 running. if the aeration is not doing the job then you can also aim the outlet of your filter to the surface to provide more turbulence.


The first suggestion that I can think of is that instead of running the risk of letting the CO2 go 24/7 is to just manually turn off the main gas cylinder valve (if it is a 5/10/20lb tank, disconnect if it is paintball). not the needle valve as you may have trouble adjusting it again in the morning. The plants are also producing CO2 at night and if the drop checker is not blue right now then I wouldn't risk gasing the fish at night.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 06:56 AM
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once you install the solenoid, you'll still need to maintain good surface agitation. get a surface skimmer. you'd be surprised how much it aids in gas exchange. get rid of the drop checker and invest in a pH pen or monitor. drop checker tells you what your co2 was 2-3 hours prior, probably why you haven't seen it change. you want a 1pt drop in pH by the time your lights come on and to remain there throughout the photoperiod.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by moke View Post
once you install the solenoid, you'll still need to maintain good surface agitation. get a surface skimmer. you'd be surprised how much it aids in gas exchange. get rid of the drop checker and invest in a pH pen or monitor. drop checker tells you what your co2 was 2-3 hours prior, probably why you haven't seen it change. you want a 1pt drop in pH by the time your lights come on and to remain there throughout the photoperiod.
I wouldn't ditch it. I'd use both. To promote learning in the hobby, it will be important to see what your reading on you "uncalibrated/poorly calibrated" pH pen corresponds to a color change that is ONLY influenced by gases.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 01:09 PM
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oh that does seem problematic,

the only answer is going to be to aerate until the drop checker is blue even with the CO2 running. if the aeration is not doing the job then you can also aim the outlet of your filter to the surface to provide more turbulence.


The first suggestion that I can think of is that instead of running the risk of letting the CO2 go 24/7 is to just manually turn off the main gas cylinder valve (if it is a 5/10/20lb tank, disconnect if it is paintball). not the needle valve as you may have trouble adjusting it again in the morning. The plants are also producing CO2 at night and if the drop checker is not blue right now then I wouldn't risk gassing the fish at night.

Shutting off the CO2 at the high pressure side with the cylinder valve is not some thing you want to do as a regular, nightly practice.


These valves have a limited lifespan and it would be better to place a 1/8" i.d. hose barbed manual shut off valve in the line on low pressure side of the regulator.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-30-2020, 07:01 PM
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very good point @GrampsGrunge

Did the OP get his problem solved?

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