Dwyer air flow meter - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Dwyer air flow meter

I have a GLA CO2 regulator connected to the air flow. I am not sure the right procedure to fine tune CO2.

Can someone share your adjustment related to needle valve on regulator and the airflow meter?

Thanks in Advance.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 03:55 PM
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edited

is it that the question that you asked last year?
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...ma150-ssv.html


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 05:47 PM
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I can only tell you what I do.

I use the needle valve to set the flow just over what I need it to be.

Then I use the flow meter valve to fine tune the flow.

For instance, could be needle valve is at 50cc, and I am bringing that down to 45cc via the flow meter valve.

Hope that makes sense and is helpful.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greggz View Post
I can only tell you what I do.

I use the needle valve to set the flow just over what I need it to be.

Then I use the flow meter valve to fine tune the flow.

For instance, could be needle valve is at 50cc, and I am bringing that down to 45cc via the flow meter valve.

Hope that makes sense and is helpful.
151 or 150? Trying to figure out which one I need, 85 gallons - 110 gallons is likely where I'll land.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 06:33 PM
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151 or 150? Trying to figure out which one I need, 85 gallons - 110 gallons is likely where I'll land.
If you are looking to go larger than 75 gallon I would go with the 150 (I believe that is the scale up to 100cc/min).

On my 75 I run less than the 50cc/min at 40 PSI into a 10in cerges; a lot depends on regular pressure, how open the needle valve is, type of reactor.... you get the idea...
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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151 or 150? Trying to figure out which one I need, 85 gallons - 110 gallons is likely where I'll land.
Model rma150-ssv, this is the one i got for 120G according to the advise from this community but i now install it on a 30G.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Grobbins48 View Post
If you are looking to go larger than 75 gallon I would go with the 150 (I believe that is the scale up to 100cc/min).

On my 75 I run less than the 50cc/min at 40 PSI into a 10in cerges; a lot depends on regular pressure, how open the needle valve is, type of reactor.... you get the idea...
10" Cerges be enough for ~100 gallon tank? I'd prefer a Griggs with a bypass, but PVC plumbing material in Canada is few and far between, pool and hot tub supply is a decent starting place but again... fitting selection is limited, especially with how I wan't my filters and reactor set up.

ABS can work... but not recommended for use under pressure, which is where I'd start to move towards PVC.

Anyway, cheapest Plain Jane 20" housing I can fine is $75 CAD... Not exactly economical. 10" housings are abundant and priced well, but I'm not sure it's enough? I've never built a Cerges, only a few Griggs for the last few tanks I've set up.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quagulator View Post
10" Cerges be enough for ~100 gallon tank? I'd prefer a Griggs with a bypass, but PVC plumbing material in Canada is few and far between, pool and hot tub supply is a decent starting place but again... fitting selection is limited, especially with how I wan't my filters and reactor set up.



ABS can work... but not recommended for use under pressure, which is where I'd start to move towards PVC.



Anyway, cheapest Plain Jane 20" housing I can fine is $75 CAD... Not exactly economical. 10" housings are abundant and priced well, but I'm not sure it's enough? I've never built a Cerges, only a few Griggs for the last few tanks I've set up.
I know @Greggz runs a 20", but my 10" has been solid on the 75, and I feel like it has plenty of life left in it to push larger. I love the size and how it fits well below the tank. Also has a bleed valve built into the top of it. Fantastic for filter maintenance and getting any air out fast and easy.

Personally, if 20" is substantially more than 10", I would give the 10" a shot. I am pretty sure I documented it in my journal somewhere, and there is a great thread on the cerges as well.

I never used Griggs, but after the Cerges I wouldn'tswitch! !
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 09:43 PM
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151 or 150? Trying to figure out which one I need, 85 gallons - 110 gallons is likely where I'll land.
At about 45 cc/min on my 120G....but that's cutting it close. Could have easily went with RMA 150.

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grobbins48 View Post
I know @Greggz runs a 20", but my 10" has been solid on the 75, and I feel like it has plenty of life left in it to push larger.
Yep I use a 20", but honestly have no idea if a 10" would have worked just as well. I can tell you that I run CO2 pretty hard and never a hint of a bubble.

Like @Grobbin48 said, pressure relief button and valve are nice to have. The valve on top allows you to stop the flow if you need to remove the housing for any reason.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 10:11 PM
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Dwyer air flow meter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greggz View Post
At about 45 cc/min on my 120G....but that's cutting it close. Could have easily went with RMA 150.

Bump:

Yep I use a 20", but honestly have no idea if a 10" would have worked just as well. I can tell you that I run CO2 pretty hard and never a hint of a bubble.



Like @Grobbin48 said, pressure relief button and valve are nice to have. The valve on top allows you to stop the flow if you need to remove the housing for any reason.


150 was in the plan, just wanted a second (and third ) opinion, so thanks @Greggz and @Grobbins48


10 Just seems small... my current Griggs is 20 inches 2.5 pipe on a 25 gallon tank... Overkill, but its nice to have no bubbles ever. But again, its ABS and Id rather not run a product not built for use under pressure on a tank 4x the size, and with 4 times the flow moving through it.

Ill keep an eye out on local buy swap and sells for 20 housings, I was quite shocked to see 20 housing being 3-4x the cost of a 10 housing. Maybe I should import one from the States... might be cheaper in the long run. Ive got lots of time to work equipment out.

Main reason for a Griggs was to use a hot tub PVC barbed manifold allowing me to run multiple canisters into the reactor with little restriction and to avoid using inline barbed Wye fittings...


Sorry @houstonreef for slightly hijacking...




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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-06-2020, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Not at all @Quagulator. it is just development and enhancement of the topic.

I just gave up my air flow meter last night since the setup/dial is inconsistent. This is the second time i tried on. i dont know why. Go back to bubble counter filled with mineral oil.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-06-2020, 01:37 PM
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I fully open my needle valve, regulator pressure is at 20 psi, and I do all my tuning with the RMA-151-SSV on my 29 gallon. I may need to up the regulator PSI, I've noticed that when doing maintenance, if my CO2 is still on and I kill flow to my Eheim canister, the 151 shows a higher cc/min. I have it set around 12 cc/min, when I turn off or close double taps on the canister, the meter jumps up to 15+ cc/min. @Greggz Do you think adjusting my reg pressure would affect that? Or is that just how it is?
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-06-2020, 03:56 PM
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I fully open my needle valve, regulator pressure is at 20 psi, and I do all my tuning with the RMA-151-SSV on my 29 gallon. I may need to up the regulator PSI, I've noticed that when doing maintenance, if my CO2 is still on and I kill flow to my Eheim canister, the 151 shows a higher cc/min. I have it set around 12 cc/min, when I turn off or close double taps on the canister, the meter jumps up to 15+ cc/min. @Greggz Do you think adjusting my reg pressure would affect that? Or is that just how it is?

Are you using an in line atomizer? And if so on the outlet tubing?
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-06-2020, 04:59 PM
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Are you using an in line atomizer? And if so on the outlet tubing?
No, sorry, should have mentioned that. I'm using a Rex Griggs reactor on the outlet side.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-06-2020, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mgeorges View Post
I fully open my needle valve, regulator pressure is at 20 psi, and I do all my tuning with the RMA-151-SSV on my 29 gallon. I may need to up the regulator PSI, I've noticed that when doing maintenance, if my CO2 is still on and I kill flow to my Eheim canister, the 151 shows a higher cc/min. I have it set around 12 cc/min, when I turn off or close double taps on the canister, the meter jumps up to 15+ cc/min. @Greggz Do you think adjusting my reg pressure would affect that? Or is that just how it is?
You know I can't say for sure. If it was on my system, I would hardly notice as a 3 cc/min change doesn't mean much when I am near 50 cc/min. But in your case, that's actually a big swing.

I run my system at about 20psi, and I always turn off CO2 flow when filters are off. For me, I just don't want to build a big bubble in there if it's going to be a while.

My guess is that the pressure change is affecting flow. I'll have to try it on mine, but I am guessing that could just be normal.

Does it bounce back to 12 cc/min after the filters start again? If so, I wouldn't even be worrying about it.
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