Much depends upon where you want to go in terms of plant varieties. The higher the light, the more demanding varieties you can get and you can dim at any point. I've had many different LED's and currently have the Twinstar S 600. It blows the others in your list off the map in PAR (at least double the intensity) and PUR. The colr temperature is the best I've had, even the fish have much better coloration. You can find my Twinstar S 600 PAR/PUR readings here, for comparison purposes: https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...l#post11275737
. So, I'd advise spending the extra on a superior light so that your ceiling isn't limited. Try to avoid having anything between the light and the water, e.g.; a glass cover will reduce light by 13%.
My additional standard recommendation is to add a level one UVS. These kill most parasites, bacteria, viruses and many algal spores (but won't stop algae formation - just help dampen it) and can help with redox. Fish disease has dropped to near zero in the 15 years I've owned it. It's another ~$150 (you want level one sterilization, not the cheap green-water killers). Additionally, I need no heater, as this keeps my 29 gal tank at a steady 74-78 degrees F area when room temp varies between 60-80.
Filter: whatever filter you buy, you need to decide what you are going to connect to it, the length of tubing involved and the type of output (lily pipe, spraybar, etc) so that you can be sure that you have enough flow in GPH. Decide how you are going to deliver the CO2 from the regulator. Many of us prefer a reactor, such as a Griggs, this will slow flow down. Adding a UVS will slow it further. Long tubing also slows it as does a spray bar vs. an open-ended output. With these things attached, you'd be lucky to get half the rated flow of a filter.