Thoughts on a 95g tank? Drilled? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thoughts on a 95g tank? Drilled?

I'm considering a 48x24x17, 95g tank, primarily because of the 24" depth of field. My goal is an absolutely minimum amount of visible equipment in the tank.

The issues I see are:

- weight, especially with a possible 29g sump. I would place the tank by a load-bearing wall for this reason.

- water changes. Unless something better has come along, I plan to dose EI and run high CO2. I can add a hose tap and use a garden hose to drain it out the front door easily enough, though it will be an issue in the winter, but how can i treat the incoming water without resorting to buckets and still maintain a relatively stable temperature, especially in winter?

- unusual dimensions. Is this going to look odd or have special scaping considerations beyond needing extra plants? Any pluses or negatives on CO2 dispersion?

Do I even need or want a drilled tank?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 03:09 PM
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I dont think your dimensions are odd at all. I would consider increasing the height though to 18 or 20". As long as you have a good stand the weight won't matter. You're right that 50% water changes are a hassle on a larger tank. Why not consider PPS pro fertilization and change 25% of your water weekly? I do that, it works nicely and parameters are more consistent than with El.

For water changes I bought a 30 gallon polypropylene tank made for RVs. They come in different shapes and sizes. I bought a flat rectangular shape, stood it on end and installed a drum pump so I don't have to lift buckets. The footprint is only 10 x 14 so it's pretty easy to store. You can bring it out when it water change time, fill it up, heat the water, drain 30 gallons, then refill with the drum pumpClick image for larger version

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And a drilled tank and sump are the way to go to hide equipment. I have a drilled tank and sump. The only items in the tank are a small overflow in the corner mounted on the side wall so it only sticks out 2 inches; check out Glass Holes overflows. They are small and silent. And two nozzles for flow. Nothing else in the tank.

An important addition with a sump system is a variable speed pump, such as Waveline DC pumps. The variable speed will allow you to dial in your current/ flow, along with splitting the output to create a circular pattern in the tank. An added benefit is increased oxygenation which will allow your to safely pump in more CO2. See the 2Hr Aquarist Web site for a complete explanation on this.
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Last edited by Darkblade48; 05-31-2019 at 05:48 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 04:26 PM
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I agree, I don't think its too unique of a shape. A slightly shallower 120g basically.

You can have minimal equipment in the tank whether you're running a sump or a cannister. You can get an inline heater and an inline diffuser, so it eliminates equipment that way.

Now that I have a sump I prefer it, I have more media then a cannister allows and it greatly increases my water volume. I'm still working on silencing mine but it seems like a very possible thing. Have the auto doser, UV sterilizer and the CO2 reactor all in the stand feeding into the sump. No equipment seen in the tank.

I drain my tank with a small pond pump attached to a garden hose. I fill my tank directly from the tap at the proper temperature and just add prime while it's filling. I use the same garden hose to fill and just screw it onto the sink.

I would imagine you'd be able to do something similar with yours unless your tap water is toxic

...if I take the dishwasher out and use paper plates I can put a tank in the kitchen without losing counter space
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 09:01 PM
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I came up with a pretty good solution to silence my drain. A 7" Pyrex container lid fits a 7"
Filter sock perfectly. I cut a hole in the lid to tightly fit my drain pipe. Also inserted some course sponge inside the pipe to back up the water a bit. You need to be careful doing this though. Also at the end of the drain pipe an elbow with a reducer fitting helps too.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 04:28 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I'm looking forward to this project - I just have to find a hose adapter for the downstairs taps, though I don't see any obvious connection points.

One other thing: 95g vs 120g. The 120 is 7" higher; my impression is that that's mostly going to be wasted space as I've heard similar comments about 120s in the past. I can also imaging the light needed to reach the carpeting plants means extremely high PAR levels for those background plants that reach near the surface, possibly causing stunting or algae issues.

Any thoughts?

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 08:41 PM
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I have a 24" high tank with T5 lights. By the time you add substrate youre at 20-22". Easy to get 100 par on the bottom. Check out threads by Burr740
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 03:09 PM
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Consider getting a python for water changes. Just Google python water change. Should pretty much solve your problem.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mboley View Post
I came up with a pretty good solution to silence my drain. A 7" Pyrex container lid fits a 7"
Filter sock perfectly. I cut a hole in the lid to tightly fit my drain pipe. Also inserted some course sponge inside the pipe to back up the water a bit. You need to be careful doing this though. Also at the end of the drain pipe an elbow with a reducer fitting helps too.
Hi Mboley.. Could you take a foto of that setup?

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 05:36 PM
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Consider getting a python for water changes. Just Google python water change. Should pretty much solve your problem.

That's how I do it, just check the temperature of the tank and adjust the temperature from the faucet to match before you start filling. You have to use enough water treatment for the entire volume of the tank though rather than just treating the volume in say a bucket which gets pricey. I switched to Seachem Safe which is significantly cheaper and comes in bulk.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 05:12 AM
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Pic of filter bag/ silencer/ CO2 bubble disperser installed in my sump.
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