I would not recommend that unit due to the way it is made. Some understanding of what makes a good needle valve may help.
We use a really, really, tiny amount of CO2 and that makes it very important that we be able to move the adjustment on the needle valve and get terribly small change in the opening. Two things make that possible. One is that the needle needs to be long and have a very sharp taper. Think of a sewing needle versus a screw, perhaps. One is long and finely tapered and as it is moved into a precision hole, the opening changes very little but with the screw, moving the same distance forward gets a much larger change due to it being much more blunt. So a long thin needle is better.
The second part is the threads inside the valve which move the needle forward or back. More threads per inch means the needle moves less for each turn of the adjustment. The better valves take many turns (maybe 32?) to move from closed to fully open. The cheaper ones may move fully in four turns of the adjustment. One that we can turn a tiny bit to move the needle forward a really tiny bit is better than one which jumps forward every time we even touch the adjustment.
The problem is that good metal that allows fine machining is not cheap and the pot metal many cheap ones use is just not a workable item for precision.
Short, cheap, valves of cheap metal will just often be "cheap".
How cheap and how much we are willing to put up with is always a personal choice but many find they wish for better.
I use the Fabco NV-55 line as a "middle of the road" valve.