Canister Filter intake strength? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Canister Filter intake strength?

I installed my Eheim 350, and the pump is working, there's water flowing out of the spray bar, however my intake strength is rather weak. Has anyone experienced this with this exact filter? It sucks in debris, but I would have thought it would be a tad stronger, what can remedy this?


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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 01:22 AM
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Assuming a new filter so that all the tubing and such are clean and no problems with kinks?
The next most likely thing to slow flow when all is clear is the media.Are you using the stock media without adding more? We can sometimes slow things down with something as simple as an extra pad. But I rarely judge the flow by looking at the intake but more athow the outflow is and if it is less than the last time. I can see when the spray bar is spraying out like six inches and then gets down to four inches and that tells me I need to clean the filter. What comes out has to be going in but one is easier for me to see.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PlantedRich View Post
Assuming a new filter so that all the tubing and such are clean and no problems with kinks?
The next most likely thing to slow flow when all is clear is the media.Are you using the stock media without adding more? We can sometimes slow things down with something as simple as an extra pad. But I rarely judge the flow by looking at the intake but more athow the outflow is and if it is less than the last time. I can see when the spray bar is spraying out like six inches and then gets down to four inches and that tells me I need to clean the filter. What comes out has to be going in but one is easier for me to see.

It is a new filter, everything is clean, no leaks, etc.

I am using the stock media, did not add anything else. The tubes that I have cut are just enough, so there's no crazy slack, if it is like 5" I just add an extra 1" to make it a bit longer, that's all. The spray bar has very strong flow, I guess this is fine, then? I was expecting my hand to feel the intake just taking debris in, but I barely feel it.


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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 01:52 AM
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If the outflow feels right, then you are fine. The filter is not a vacuum cleaner: sucking in fish, plants, and substrate is not its job.

I have that filter, several of them and the likes - good choice.
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If the outflow feels right, then you are fine. The filter is not a vacuum cleaner: sucking in fish, plants, and substrate is not its job.

I have that filter, several of them and the likes - good choice.
I have always had HOB so I thought these would be stronger in that regard, I suppose I am wrong - thanks for the information.

I have noticed a little drip, though, it's not much but it appears to be pretty consistent, the drip comes from the canister's intake, I turned it pretty much until it tightened, any hacks for this? "Turn it more" isn't an option anymore because it is pretty tight already as I stated.


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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 02:49 AM
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Which specific area? A picture would help.

I put the hose under kitchen faucet at max hot for several seconds and then slide it over the barb to the end. Then tighten the nut once the hose is cool. A hair dryer also works for heating the tubing a bit.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 02:45 PM
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I hate to mention these things at times because it really sounds like and insult! Sometimes when we get new equipment, we don't know what we don't know so don't feel like this is meant to hurt, just asking questions to be sure. There are many new canister users who miss on the way the tubing is put on as it can seem wrong.
Different filters may do it different and it can leave the tubing pretty tight but not right enough.
So when putting the tubing on, turning the fitting the right way at the right time can get off. Check that if the leak is from the tubing to plastic joint.
It is certainly true that the pictures don't always give us a good idea of what is to happen. I'm of the old school that isn't up on which canister is the 350---I still think in terms of 2211 to 2217 and 2273 or 2275. Any question about which way to put the tubing and turn the fittings, I'll let others with that model help but I do remember having some confusion on that point.

Update?
I did a look at the manual and that is the old 2217 with a plastic el at the bottom for input. That is a point where it is not uncommon to need a bit of some sealer at the joint where the el screws into the body. Most anything to seal the threads can work. Silicone and let it set before adding water? Teflon style tape/ thread seal? Some thing that can seal but not make it permanent is simple petroleum jelly as it is water proof and does add just the tiny amount of sealing. Pain in the tail to take it all down so that it can be unscrewed but that may be needed. Sorry??

Last edited by PlantedRich; 04-01-2018 at 02:53 PM. Reason: added info
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 02:48 PM
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A well designed filter will have more outlet pressure than inlet pressure. Pumps push water more efficiently than they pull it. I can guarantee you that your input flow is equal to your output. What your hand feels is a pretty meaningless measurement.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 03:58 PM
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Raith, it's possible you tightened the intake elbow a bit too snugly and distorted the o-ring. You will need to empty all the water out of the filter to correct it. Just unscrew the elbow, check the o-ring for damage such as too flat or squashed and if it looks just fine, screw the elbow back in.

Usually the flat face of the fitting only needs to be flush with the housing of the canister in order not to leak. The elbow threads are not used to seal against leaks, the o-ring provides the seal against the flat surface of the housing and the fitting.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 04:47 PM
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^ This. I've seen so many people overtighten that elbow to the point it leaks. Give this a try before resorting to tape or puddy or epoxy, lol.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for your opinions, they're appreciated!


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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-09-2018, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deeda View Post
Raith, it's possible you tightened the intake elbow a bit too snugly and distorted the o-ring. You will need to empty all the water out of the filter to correct it. Just unscrew the elbow, check the o-ring for damage such as too flat or squashed and if it looks just fine, screw the elbow back in.

Usually the flat face of the fitting only needs to be flush with the housing of the canister in order not to leak. The elbow threads are not used to seal against leaks, the o-ring provides the seal against the flat surface of the housing and the fitting.
Going back to this, excuse me as I'm not sure where the O-ring is, I'm guessing that it is on the top part that is between the canister itself and the motorhead? I have attached the picture of where the leak is taking place, is this considered the elbow?

Thanks again.


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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-09-2018, 07:11 PM
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Raith, yes that is the intake elbow I was referring to. Drain all the water out of the filter before removing the elbow and checking the o-ring.

The threaded portion of the elbow that screws into the canister body will have an o-ring on the flat end of the fitting where it touches the inside hole of the canister body.

A quick online search for the Eheim 350 intake elbow does show white teflon tape on the threaded portion of the fitting so I am unsure if they have made a change and eliminated the o-ring or if it is underneath all the white teflon tape.

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-09-2018, 07:44 PM
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Canister filters unlike regular sump pumps are designed to pull instead of push no?
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-09-2018, 07:57 PM
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No, they depend on siphon to even get started. You can't run one above the tank.
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