I'm at my wits' end - Page 3 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #31 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-09-2020, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Anything?
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post #32 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-10-2020, 10:54 AM
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Anything?
Sorry for delay, sometime life gets in way. I tend not to give 1/2 answers.

Fuzz/Hair algae almost always nutrients in excess and/or light in excess, I would cut 9am to 40% and do same for 3pm. that will cut that ramp up to a slight peak instead of 6hrs of straight 50%, a 20% reduction in power intensity on both sides of noon peak that will give you light in high range of about 3.5hrs.

In about 3wk (nothing good in a aquarium happens fast, quote from another posters sig) I think you can get things under control just by backing off light slightly. Level out your dosing across week and reduce light slightly and I think you’ll get in that holding pattern where every wk your tank as whole does better.

In about 3wk let us know how it’s going. All proper tank adjustments are small, make a adjustment, see results 2+ wk later,
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post #33 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-10-2020, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cr9 View Post
Anything?
Sorry for delay, sometime life gets in way. I tend not to give 1/2 answers.

Fuzz/Hair algae almost always nutrients in excess and/or light in excess, I would cut 9am to 40% and do same for 3pm. that will cut that ramp up to a slight peak instead of 6hrs of straight 50%, a 20% reduction in power intensity on both sides of noon peak that will give you light in high range of about 3.5hrs.

In about 3wk (nothing good in a aquarium happens fast, quote from another posters sig) I think you can get things under control just by backing off light slightly. Level out your dosing across week and reduce light slightly and I think you’ll get in that holding pattern where every wk your tank as whole does better.

In about 3wk let us know how it’s going. All proper tank adjustments are small, make a adjustment, see results 2+ wk later,
Perfect, thanks for the response. I'll do what you said and report back in 3 weeks.
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post #34 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-21-2020, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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One last question for everyone, could the issue be in the flow of my water, as well?
I feel like the flow is good, but maybe I'm wrong. Below is how it is set up.
I have the outflow on the left side, angled at about 45°. The outflow is just the normal nozzle that comes with the cascade 1000, with out the directional spout attached. The intake is in the opposite corner, close to the substrate. I'm wondering if it would be better if I did one of the following; put the spray bar on instead, or move the intake into the same corner as the outflow to create more of a current.
Couple of extra things as well; I have the canister flow at 1/2 so the shrimp don't get thrown around and I have sera florets inline CO2 reactor in the outflow.
Let me know what you all think.
Thank you very much for all of your input
Cody
(P.s. haven't had any shrimp death for a little bit, and the algae has gotten a lot more under control.)
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post #35 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-21-2020, 08:00 PM
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You should be fine with co2 running 8AM to 8PM.

With that long a tank I would use multi-segment spray bar canister came with, point two center segments down and slightly at back wall to flush water down to substrate layer behind plants. The segments of bar on ends point them just slightly up at water surface and headed towards front glass for surface ripple. You’ll have a nice gentle current all around tank and good high->low water movement for proper gas and nutrient distribution. Position co2 diffuser under one of end segments so when any bubbles come up they will get caught in that wide stream of water and swept around tank.
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post #36 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-23-2020, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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You should be fine with co2 running 8AM to 8PM.

With that long a tank I would use multi-segment spray bar canister came with, point two center segments down and slightly at back wall to flush water down to substrate layer behind plants. The segments of bar on ends point them just slightly up at water surface and headed towards front glass for surface ripple. You’ll have a nice gentle current all around tank and good high->low water movement for proper gas and nutrient distribution. Position co2 diffuser under one of end segments so when any bubbles come up they will get caught in that wide stream of water and swept around tank.
I noticed you said: "Position co2 diffuser under one of end segments".
My CO2 line goes directly into an inline reactor. With that, would you position the spray bars any different?
Also, I am wondering if my algae issue might be directly related to my current inlet/outlet positions. Algae will now only grown in some very select spots. Spots that I feel probably have less circulation to them.
Let me know, and again, thank you to everyone who has posted and helped thus far. It has been very helpful and educational.
Like I said, I've had aquariums for a long time, but I am new to planted/shrimp side of things. I've only really had large catfish/cichlid, and African cichlid planted tanks.
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post #37 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-23-2020, 08:26 PM
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No worry’s then, I was thinking you had a diffuser. You’ll have great gas distribution throughout tank.

Stagnant areas of tank are always problematic. Not just for plants but for distribution of gases around tank. It keeps debris in motion so they get picked up and a good high->low flow ensures gases are pushed down to substrate level where micro-currents of oxygenated water are pushed into substrate making sure aerobic bacteria there fluorish. Plants also uptake co2 at roots and use that carbon for various nutrient uptake and transport functions.
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post #38 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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No worry’s then, I was thinking you had a diffuser. You’ll have great gas distribution throughout tank.

Stagnant areas of tank are always problematic. Not just for plants but for distribution of gases around tank. It keeps debris in motion so they get picked up and a good high->low flow ensures gases are pushed down to substrate level where micro-currents of oxygenated water are pushed into substrate making sure aerobic bacteria there fluorish. Plants also uptake co2 at roots and use that carbon for various nutrient uptake and transport functions.
So I just read an interesting page that brought up a lot of questions, & maybe some answers, too. I'll include the link at the bottom.

So, in this article it is talking about the surface agitation, O2, and CO2. With that I had no spray bar, and my outflow pointed at 45°~60° from the far top left, and inlet on the bottom right. Because of this, could I have not been getting enough oxygen low enough, and more, or less, been suffocating my shrimp?

Also, towards the end of the article, it talks about getting a surface skimmer, because if you have any surface film it will completely inhibit oxygen exchange. I don't why that never crossed my mind, but my tank does build up a surface film fairly quickly. So, would you all suggest that I get a surface skimmer? If yes, what would your suggestions be?

With a lot more thought on surface agitation and circulation, what would be your suggestions on the amount of surface agitation? Tiny ripple? Medium ripple? Let me know.
The last part of this: on here (can't remember without going back) someone suggested I put the spray bars on with the outer forward and up for agitation & circulation, then the middle two pointed backwards to get co2 dispersion behind the plants. Well, only three spray bars will fit in, so I have the outer two pointed forward and a little up, then the middle one point straight backwards. Will that have the same effect? Also, will the one pointing backwards interfere with the tanks circulation?

Let me know guys, and again, thank you.

Article:
https://www.advancedplantedtank.com/...-of-co2-safely
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post #39 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 06:48 PM
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A surface skimmer is unnecessary, just use an air-stone to break up the film that collects on top of water.

I have four shrimp tanks and 1 developed this issue. I added an air-stone and the film was gone in hours.
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post #40 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-26-2020, 06:51 PM
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Agreed, in my experience an airstone will take care of that in short order. Doubt I'll ever run a high tech tank without one again.
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Nothing good happens fast in an ecosystem.
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post #41 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-28-2020, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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A surface skimmer is unnecessary, just use an air-stone to break up the film that collects on top of water.

I have four shrimp tanks and 1 developed this issue. I added an air-stone and the film was gone in hours.
Appreciate the response.
Unnecessary, as in you feel it won't do the job adequately? As in overkill, underkill? Or personal preference?

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Agreed, in my experience an airstone will take care of that in short order. Doubt I'll ever run a high tech tank without one again.
I appreciate the response here, too.

For both of you, would you say it's more of a personal preference on why you run an air stone instead of a surface skimmer?
On the same note, is there anything you would feel is wrong with using a surface skimmer? I ask because personally I hate using air stones. No good reason, or legitimate issue with them, except I just don't like the way the bubbles look in the tank. Not a real good reason, I know. This is the same reason why I use a reactor instead of a diffuser.

Again thank you for the input and I appreciate the future responses
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post #42 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-28-2020, 08:44 PM
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Appreciate the response.
Unnecessary, as in you feel it won't do the job adequately? As in overkill, underkill? Or personal preference?



I appreciate the response here, too.

For both of you, would you say it's more of a personal preference on why you run an air stone instead of a surface skimmer?
On the same note, is there anything you would feel is wrong with using a surface skimmer? I ask because personally I hate using air stones. No good reason, or legitimate issue with them, except I just don't like the way the bubbles look in the tank. Not a real good reason, I know. This is the same reason why I use a reactor instead of a diffuser.

Again thank you for the input and I appreciate the future responses
Good question.

Bottom line is that it really is a personal preference-- surface skimmers have never been on my radar as necessary for freshwater tanks. In my mind, that was an item necessary for salt-water set-ups. I have had aquariums running continuously for over 30 years and never used a surface skimmer on any of them. If I wanted to deal with excess proteins at water line I used an air-pump/ air-stone to disperse it. 9/10 I already had one lying around.

In time I just put an air-pump on all my tanks ( for various beneficial reasons of livestock health, primarily).



Sounds like you already know an air-stone is not something you want-- so my saying that a skimmer was "unnecessary" was only thinking in terms of my own experience/preference.
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post #43 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-29-2020, 09:00 PM
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What does “straight backwards” on middle spraybar mean? You want it to aim downward along back glass, just like the ones blowing slightly up making surface ripple you want it angled 1-2° towards glass so it hits glass and fans out and makes a nice wide current that moves water from top of tank to substrate level down the back wall.
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post #44 of 45 (permalink) Old 07-05-2020, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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What does “straight backwards” on middle spraybar mean? You want it to aim downward along back glass, just like the ones blowing slightly up making surface ripple you want it angled 1-2° towards glass so it hits glass and fans out and makes a nice wide current that moves water from top of tank to substrate level down the back wall.
Middle spraybar is not pointed directly backwards. It's probably angled about 5°~10° down. Trying to decide if I want to point it down a little more, or not.

Update and good news, too. Algae has almost all receded, or is gone, with the exception of a few spots of BBA.
Even better, I haven't had a single shrimp die since the last time I posted about a death. Not only that, shrimp are much much more active.
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post #45 of 45 (permalink) Old 07-05-2020, 08:15 PM
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Yep with proper circulation/gas-nutrient exchange and stabilizing your water/change water parameters your seeing the results. Shrimp are healthy, happy and always grazing, carpeting plants look really good too.
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