I'm at my wits' end - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-03-2020, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
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Also, finally got a TDS reader, and I'm at 98
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post #17 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-03-2020, 02:31 AM
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Sorry to hear about the accident! Having been through a few myself (none of them major), it's always been a hassle getting things taken care of...

TDS certainly sounds too low for Neos, which sounds as no surprise since the GH is also low.
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post #18 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-03-2020, 02:22 PM
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I was going through the same issue. All my parameters were perfect. Come to find out, I was cooking my fish with keeping the heater on. Someone suggested that I turn off the heater. everyone stated they kept their shrimp tank at room temperature. ever since then, I went from a death every 1-2 days to 1 ever 2 weeks. And the ones passing away are adults and since I got them from other people, I'm not sure how long they were alive to begin with.

And all the remaining shrimp are more active than before. There are pros and cons to the heater. One is that it helps shrimps give birth quicker which would explain the explosion of shrimplets in the tank. But it can also kill them. so I just turned off the heater and kept it in there just in case. but once this quarantine thing is over, I plan to hit up the lady who was giving away shrimp to get some more and start again.
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post #19 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-04-2020, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Alright everyone, so I am still dealing with car insurance accident stuff, but I was able to do a few things to the tank.
First thing, I had forgotten that a friend gave me some salty shrimp GH+ in a bag a couple months back. I don't have a gram measuring spoon, or the the little measure that the product comes with. So, I did セ teaspoon for 5 gallons of RO water. With that, for now, I'm just gonna use it to top off my water when it gets low. Does that sound about right with everyone? Or should I do a mini water change?
Question though, will I be safe to continue using my liquid fertilizer, NilocG thrive S, with the addition of minerals? Let me know.
All of this said, I feel like my shrimp look healthier.
Side note, starting at the end of last week, I feel like I'm finally starting to win the battle against my green hair algae outbreak I recently had.
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post #20 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-04-2020, 09:07 PM
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Sounds like you池e heading in the right direction.

Not sure if I read the sentence correctly but salty shrimp with your change water and RO water (no additives) for your top up water.

To maintain stability for the tank and shrimp you should mix the salty shrimp in a bucket before adding to the tank during water change.


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post #21 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-04-2020, 09:17 PM
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Yes slowly adding GH is way to do it. Add enough so that when you top off it builds GH gradually. Also adjust your change water so it痴 GH is slightly above tanks current GH, say 1ー dGH.

When you get GH in tank where you want it stop with top off addition to GH and just mix up your change water to match tanks GH, you値l just top off with straight RO but manage GH on water changes.
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post #22 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-04-2020, 09:19 PM
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Might u have pest like planaria or any diseases?
With tap so hard and mix to, I'd look other things could be killing them
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post #23 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-05-2020, 05:53 AM
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If you mix the RO water to 130-150 TDS and use that for top off's and water changes, until your tank reaches same to 200 TDS, you should probably be good on the GH.

What is the TDS of the new mixed water?

Yes, it's fine to use ferts with minerals.


Best of luck getting the insurance stuff cleared soon.
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post #24 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-06-2020, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisSingh View Post
Might u have pest like planaria or any diseases?
With tap so hard and mix to, I'd look other things could be killing them
No planaria, or other issues I can see, but I don't know if there is anything I'm missing.

For everyone else, yesterday when I checked the tank I found 6 dead shrimp. Now this is what's weird to me. About 2 weeks ago I found that I have a lot of baby shrimp hiding in my monte carlo. All of the babies, from what I can see, are alive. Could some of this just be older shrimp?

I'm also in a bit of a double headed dragon right now, as I'm also fighting an algae outbreak that started around a similar time. It's green hair algae, too, btw.

Could there be a relationship between the two?
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post #25 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-06-2020, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveKS View Post
Yes slowly adding GH is way to do it. Add enough so that when you top off it builds GH gradually. Also adjust your change water so it’s GH is slightly above tanks current GH, say 1ー dGH.

When you get GH in tank where you want it stop with top off addition to GH and just mix up your change water to match tanks GH, you’ll just top off with straight RO but manage GH on water changes.
So basically what you're saying is, use the salty shrimp in my top off water until i get my desired gh, then just go back to RO to top off? Then, match the gh of my water, with the new water, when it's time for water changes?
What I'm doing right now, let me know if I'm wrong, but I'm adding the mineral straight into my RO/DI water, mixing it up and adding it straight in as top off water.
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post #26 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-06-2020, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cr9 View Post
So basically what you're saying is, use the salty shrimp in my top off water until i get my desired gh, then just go back to RO to top off? Then, match the gh of my water, with the new water, when it's time for water changes?
What I'm doing right now, let me know if I'm wrong, but I'm adding the mineral straight into my RO/DI water, mixing it up and adding it straight in as top off water.
What DaveKS said is right.

Water evaporates, minerals don't... so if you top off with water that has minerals in it, you are only increasing GH/KH (if there's any KH in water) over time... which could make the water very hard.

If the GH and KH is where you want it in the tank, then you would only top off with RO water and do water changes with water that's been remineralized to what you want in tank, or just below that (in case in tank parameters have risen).

Since your GH is already low, it's fine to use remineralized water to top up for now... it will slowly raise your parameters so it's less of a shock to the shrimp.



There's a chance that the offspring are currently "okay" with low GH parameters but the adults need more minerals... and they might be dying due to lack of minerals. Or there could be a different issue... hard to say for sure... but algae should not cause deaths unless the tank is overrun with algae and is somehow causing harm to the tank?
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post #27 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-06-2020, 11:58 PM
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Yea you got it. Bring GH up slowly on top off and water changes, then when you get GH in tank where you want only do GH builder to change water and go to straight RO for top off.

Mix your change water to GH you want not the TDS pen. When GH test reads what you want in change water (remember GH test is only reading Ca/Mg in water) then use TDS pen to take that change waters TDS reading and note it. Once you get formula down for this much water+this much GH/KH builder you can simply check it with TDS pen. If you keep formula the same and you see TDS rising in change water you need to check your RO. Maintain the prefilters on your RO and you値l get years of use out of the RO membrane, slack off changing the floss and carbon prefilters and you値l get chlorine reaching the membrane and it will die a early death.

Your change water TDS in theory will always be lower than your tanks water even though you have mixed them to same Ca/Mg levels (GH test). Tank water will have other dissolved organic substances such as poop, food, wood decomposing and maybe minerals from rocks that slowly dissolving. The TDS pen should be used on tank to quickly monitor accumulation of ALL dissolved substances in tank water. After you change 10% water, add ferts, wait 10min for water to circulate and check and note TDS. That is your tanks baseline, if you see it going up to much you need to change a bit more water or maybe feed less.

As far as hair algae problem need more specifics. You never said what gallon/dimensions tank is or exactly what light you have and what intensity/ramps are. You gave dosing and photoperiod in 1st post.
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post #28 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-07-2020, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoidburg View Post
Quote:
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So basically what you're saying is, use the salty shrimp in my top off water until i get my desired gh, then just go back to RO to top off? Then, match the gh of my water, with the new water, when it's time for water changes?
What I'm doing right now, let me know if I'm wrong, but I'm adding the mineral straight into my RO/DI water, mixing it up and adding it straight in as top off water.
What DaveKS said is right.

Water evaporates, minerals don't... so if you top off with water that has minerals in it, you are only increasing GH/KH (if there's any KH in water) over time... which could make the water very hard.

If the GH and KH is where you want it in the tank, then you would only top off with RO water and do water changes with water that's been remineralized to what you want in tank, or just below that (in case in tank parameters have risen).

Since your GH is already low, it's fine to use remineralized water to top up for now... it will slowly raise your parameters so it's less of a shock to the shrimp.



There's a chance that the offspring are currently "okay" with low GH parameters but the adults need more minerals... and they might be dying due to lack of minerals. Or there could be a different issue... hard to say for sure... but algae should not cause deaths unless the tank is overrun with algae and is somehow causing harm to the tank?
Perfect, thank you!
The hair algae definitely isn't overrunning the tank. I'm wondering if whatever is causing the hair algae, could also be causing the shrimp to die. Is there anything that could be off in a tank that would cause both the shrimp death and hair algae outbreak?
The only thing I could think of that would cause that would be nitrate, but mine tends to be an the low, and too low side. I thought it was that for so long I got about 4 different tests and test styles to make sure I wasn't testing it wrong.
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post #29 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-07-2020, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveKS View Post
Yea you got it. Bring GH up slowly on top off and water changes, then when you get GH in tank where you want only do GH builder to change water and go to straight RO for top off.

Mix your change water to GH you want not the TDS pen. When GH test reads what you want in change water (remember GH test is only reading Ca/Mg in water) then use TDS pen to take that change waters TDS reading and note it. Once you get formula down for this much water+this much GH/KH builder you can simply check it with TDS pen. If you keep formula the same and you see TDS rising in change water you need to check your RO. Maintain the prefilters on your RO and you’ll get years of use out of the RO membrane, slack off changing the floss and carbon prefilters and you’ll get chlorine reaching the membrane and it will die a early death.

Your change water TDS in theory will always be lower than your tanks water even though you have mixed them to same Ca/Mg levels (GH test). Tank water will have other dissolved organic substances such as poop, food, wood decomposing and maybe minerals from rocks that slowly dissolving. The TDS pen should be used on tank to quickly monitor accumulation of ALL dissolved substances in tank water. After you change 10% water, add ferts, wait 10min for water to circulate and check and note TDS. That is your tanks baseline, if you see it going up to much you need to change a bit more water or maybe feed less.

As far as hair algae problem need more specifics. You never said what gallon/dimensions tank is or exactly what light you have and what intensity/ramps are. You gave dosing and photoperiod in 1st post.
This is the exact answer I needed, thank you.
As far as lighting and tank, here is what I have:
Aqueon 20 gallon long. Tank dimensions; 30シ"ラ12ス"ラ12セ".
Light is finnex planted+ 24/7 HLC LED
and here are my exact light dimensions:
6am W:0% R:0% G:0% B:0%
9am W:50% R:50% G:50% B:50%
12pm W:50% R:50% G:50% B:50%
3pm W:50% R50% G:50% B:50%
6pm W:10% R:0% G:10% B:50%
9pm W:0% R:0% G:0% B:0%
12pm W:0% R:0% G:0% B:0%
3am W:0% R:0% G:0% B:0%

Also, question how much of a chance could it be that my shrimp are dying because of mini ammonia spikes, due to lack of bio load? When I first had this tank going about 3 years ago and I had tetras, shrimp, and mini crayfish, i never had deaths, except for the fish eating the shrimp (learned that one the hard way). Granted, that was a much simpler set up.

Then my niece dumped all my fish food, medicine, and chemical test into the tank. Killing everything.

Side note to all of this, I have some left over line stone from my cichlid tank. Would it be a good idea to put some of that in the tank?
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post #30 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-07-2020, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Also, I have had my co2 on 6am-9pm. With that, the light begins gradually turning on before 9am and will gradually start turning off from 6pm-9pm, when it turns off completely. Could it be caused by the CO2 not having enough light and causing swings?
Maybe turn up the CO2, but start it later, end it earlier?
Let me know what you all think.
Like I said, I'm pretty new to planted tanks and CO2.
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