Need help, my shrimps are dying although my water conditions seems perfect.. - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Need help, my shrimps are dying although my water conditions seems perfect..

Hi there, i need some help from someone with more experience then i can muster in this case..

My cherry/sakura skrimps seems to be dying even tho my water conditions seems fine.. (see picture)
Ive got 15x blue dream shrimps and 20x cherry/sakura shrimps.
the past 3 days 5 of my cherry/sakura shrimps have perished and i can't seem to understand why (if you could diagnose a reason from the pictures then that would me most helpful..)

Any tips would be really nice!





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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 06:56 PM
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How long have you had them? How long has the tank been set up?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 07:05 PM
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Its hard to read your test. You might need to read it and post the results, keep in mind many hate test strips as they aren't very accurate, but they will tell you if something is way off quickly.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Aquatroy50 View Post
How long have you had them? How long has the tank been set up?
I've had the tank for about 2 months (was cycled with active media from another aquarium)
The shrimps have been in there for about 4 weeks.

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Originally Posted by Ben3721 View Post
Its hard to read your test. You might need to read it and post the results, keep in mind many hate test strips as they aren't very accurate, but they will tell you if something is way off quickly.
no3 = somewhere between 10 to 25
no2 = 0
gh = about 9
kh = 7 or 8
ph =7,2
cl2 = 0

Temperature is 23C or 73.4F if you're from the US
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Ben3721 View Post
Its hard to read your test. You might need to read it and post the results, keep in mind many hate test strips as they aren't very accurate, but they will tell you if something is way off quickly.
I second this. I can't tell what colors line up with which value. If you'll take the time to type them out it would be very helpful. Also second the advice to pick up liquid reagents when you run out of test strips. The tank was on the newer side for shrimp, but it could be any number of factors including simply purchasing weak imported shrimp and not a matter of water quality. But even trace amounts of NH4 or NO2 can be deadly to shrimp if they are showing on your strips. In case of disease, I endeavor to always remove dead shrimp as soon as I spot them even though their surviving buddies enjoy the snack.

Nothing good happens fast in an ecosystem.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 08:21 PM
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You don't say how big your tank is. That is a lot of biomass for only a 2month tank. As Blue Ridge Reef says trace amounts of nitrites (NO2) or Ammonia (NH4) will stress animals.

I would as recommended remove all dead animals promptly. Stop feeding for a few days and do water changes and consider if your stocking density is not too high. If you put too many animals for the system to cope with you will get problems because they are producing more waste than the system can process.

You may lose animals until the stocking density is more in tune with your system.

In the future do not increase stocking density too much or too quickly. It is tempting to fill up the tank quickly but that is a trap. I usually cycle with something small and hardy, neon tetras or small rasboras. Leave them fed lightly for at least a week monitoring the nitrite level and leaving several days since it is undetectable before adding A FEW more animals and monitoring nitrites again and so on until you have only enough animals for your setup.

If you want to keep more animals you will have to do something like get a bigger external filter or plumb in a sump planted tank to effectively give you a bigger system. That's what a lot of people who keep for eg African Cichlids with just rocks in the tank do. They have a planted sump to soak up nitrates and increase the effective stocking density.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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You don't say how big your tank is. That is a lot of biomass for only a 2month tank. As Blue Ridge Reef says trace amounts of nitrites (NO2) or Ammonia (NH4) will stress animals.

I would as recommended remove all dead animals promptly. Stop feeding for a few days and do water changes and consider if your stocking density is not too high. If you put too many animals for the system to cope with you will get problems because they are producing more waste than the system can process.

You may lose animals until the stocking density is more in tune with your system.

In the future do not increase stocking density too much or too quickly. It is tempting to fill up the tank quickly but that is a trap. I usually cycle with something small and hardy, neon tetras or small rasboras. Leave them fed lightly for at least a week monitoring the nitrite level and leaving several days since it is undetectable before adding A FEW more animals and monitoring nitrites again and so on until you have only enough animals for your setup.

If you want to keep more animals you will have to do something like get a bigger external filter or plumb in a sump planted tank to effectively give you a bigger system. That's what a lot of people who keep for eg African Cichlids with just rocks in the tank do. They have a planted sump to soak up nitrates and increase the effective stocking density.
I guess im wrong, but from what i've heard shrimps make almost no impact on the biomass on a tank?
its a Fluval Edge 23l tank, its planted with monte carlo and java moss, it also contains gravel, sand and dragon stone if that important to mention.

here is a picture of it:

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 08:56 PM
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You have heard wrong. Shrimp respire, they take in food and excrete waste. They might not be as metabolically active as fish but they will still put waste into the water.

There's a lot of wrong information about from people getting the wrong end of the stick. Being told shrimp can be stocked more heavily than fish and taking that to 'no impact'.

I'm a former Biomedical scientist btw so I know quite a bit about this sort of stuff. I have a 'pond' tank with daphnia and snails and have to ensure I harvest the daphnia often enough as the nitrites can spike if they become too populous. My fish certainly don't complain about eating live daphnia every other day with occasional frozen bloodworm.

One advantage of live food is it doesn't rot if it isn't eaten. Though it is rare for any to last into the next day. Between the betta and the loaches they are wrinkled out from under the leaves.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 11:22 PM
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The JBL test strips are actually only test strips I care for, as with all test strips they are just for quick ballparking of parameters. Iíve never found them to read off from actual liquid tests, but as with all test strip the they are not for pinpointing readings, just quick test to see if something seems off. Good part is it takes all of 2min to do and I find Iím more likely to do the test rather than drag out the liquid tests.

Iíll add I think Edge tank are a bad idea in that they have removed over 60% of the air/water gas exchange area from the aquarium. Sorry Fluval, bad design.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 11:57 PM
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Your tank looks great! I would keep an eye on your pH and KH because that stone looks like a lot I've had that would raise it. Keep up on maintenance and I'd hold off on getting more shrimp for a while -even if the deaths stop. Give the tank a few months to mature and settle, and it will be a much better environment for them.

I bought a Fluval Edge myself and had the same impression as Dave. It's currently in storage. I've seen people cut off that top glass at the seam, and would do that if I ever set mine up again. It's a pretty tank and clean design, but a permanent glass top is way too limiting, in addition to Dave's point which is even more true when filled that high.

Nothing good happens fast in an ecosystem.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2020, 12:32 AM
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The problem I believe, is the aquarium design, as others have stated. You must have some amount of surface agitation to provide a proper oxygen exchange. I see your tank is filled right up to the top, and looks sealed with a tight fitting lid. If a filter, or airstone can not reach the surface and break the surface, your shrimps/ fish will suffocate. Doesn't matter that your water parameters are all within normal range, if you drop your water level a couple inches ,and add a small airstone, all your shrimp should do well imo. Good luck !


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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2020, 08:45 PM
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1.) Would be great to know the parameters of the tank using liquid test kits

2.) Would be great to know parameters of tank vs source water

3.) Do the deaths seem to correlate with anything at all? i.e. after a water change? in the morning? after feeding? or?
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