Berried Royal Blue Tiger - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Berried Royal Blue Tiger

Please look at video and tell me if the eggs on this female OEBT appear normal? I guess that I was not expecting them to be this color-- they look strange. Sorry about the glare on video.



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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 03:43 PM
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They look fine to me!
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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They look fine to me!
Oh good, thank you!
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 04:46 PM
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They appear to be developing pretty well.

Any idea how long she's been carrying eggs?
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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They appear to be developing pretty well.

Any idea how long she's been carrying eggs?
I think this is the one that I had seen before-- was it a couple weeks ago? But, she was in shadow in plants-- so couldn't see the color of the eggs themselves.
How long do they usually carry the eggs?

Edit: It was 22 days ago that I saw the female Royal tiger berried-- not sure if this is that one or another.


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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 10:05 PM
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Yeah, mine have been more brown than the female's body color too so far. At least 3 have berried for me, the first died, and second either did or dropped her eggs. #3 was still berried a few days ago. Fingers crossed for her and yours.
Pic for color comparison:
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Okay! Hers do look dark as well.

Wonder how many days they hold them for, typically?


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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-02-2020, 01:42 AM
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Around 30 days. Water temperature can affect the gestation period. When the eggs start to become translucent and you can see tiny eyes, you know they are about to hatch.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2020, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Ive had 3 more deaths in last three weeks. I think there have been more than this because I only see 3 tigers at any one time.
Ive stopped feeding as much as was feeding.
Only 10 percent water changes weekly and matching TDS and temp with water changes.
Temperature ranges between 70-72 degrees.
TDS : 190
Ph is around 6.5
GH is around 5-6
KH is around 0-1. (Im thinking this may be the problem. My active substrate keeps KH buffered to 0-1.)
Im thinking I may change substrate to sand. This may keep the kh from getting so low.


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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2020, 12:31 AM
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I am no shrimp expert, but I thought when keeping just shrimp you are supposed to go much longer between water changes.. like months?



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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2020, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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I am no shrimp expert, but I thought when keeping just shrimp you are supposed to go much longer between water changes.. like months?
No, I have never heard that?


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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2020, 12:48 AM
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I've heard flip aquatics mention this a bunch. Here is a random video that mentions it at around the 2:30 mark.


The idea being that shrimp just don't produce enough waste to need a water change. And the water change itself is stressful to the shrimp.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2020, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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Ive heard the idea that one shouldn't disturb the water parameters too much too quickly, but have not heard that water changes should be months apart. Ever.
Ill watch video.
Thanks.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2020, 07:19 PM
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I know Rob is a big time shrimp breeder and I'm a guy with a few shrimp tanks, so by all means weigh that in when I say that I don't agree with his advice here. I disagree mainly because I've done it out of laziness in my own cull tanks and it's not a good long-term plan in my experience. No doubt you can get by with top offs only for a long time with the minute amount of waste that is produced by a shrimp colony. Where I'm breaking from his line of thinking is that there's a lot more going on in a planted ecosystem than just the nitrogen cycle and bioload. Eventually I feel that's what has caught up to me when I've had big colonies in old tanks suffer water changes poorly. Whether using tap or remineralized RO water, that tank is getting a little further from the source water by the day. This is why I feel like 10% weekly is kind of a sweet spot. I get where Rob is coming from in terms of short term stability but you can only do top offs with no water changes for so long. At least with weekly small partial water changes, while the slight shifts in parameters will be frequent, you avoid ever having large ones that could potentially wipe out colonies.

But having said all of that there's no rhyme or reason to what does well in my own tanks or I'd have a system down. I have a 5.5 cull Neo tank currently that I do 50% on weekly-ish. It's doing great. My shrimp rack with fancy lines gets 10% weekly. 3 of those 4 are doing well. My planted 125s with fish and shrimp get water changes when they need it and I have time. Those are big tanks and I'm always shaking babies out of the Python. None of these approaches appears to demonstrably work better than the next and the shrimp colonies seem to take turns farming babies and then just holding steady. Except the OEBTs, which have never had a fry as far as I'm aware. Maybe it's something to do with the line? I know we got ours from different breeders. It's something I'd love to figure out.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2020, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I know Rob is a big time shrimp breeder and I'm a guy with a few shrimp tanks, so by all means weigh that in when I say that I don't agree with his advice here. I disagree mainly because I've done it out of laziness in my own cull tanks and it's not a good long-term plan in my experience. No doubt you can get by with top offs only for a long time with the minute amount of waste that is produced by a shrimp colony. Where I'm breaking from his line of thinking is that there's a lot more going on in a planted ecosystem than just the nitrogen cycle and bioload. Eventually I feel that's what has caught up to me when I've had big colonies in old tanks suffer water changes poorly. Whether using tap or remineralized RO water, that tank is getting a little further from the source water by the day. This is why I feel like 10% weekly is kind of a sweet spot. I get where Rob is coming from in terms of short term stability but you can only do top offs with no water changes for so long. At least with weekly small partial water changes, while the slight shifts in parameters will be frequent, you avoid ever having large ones that could potentially wipe out colonies.

But having said all of that there's no rhyme or reason to what does well in my own tanks or I'd have a system down. I have a 5.5 cull Neo tank currently that I do 50% on weekly-ish. It's doing great. My shrimp rack with fancy lines gets 10% weekly. 3 of those 4 are doing well. My planted 125s with fish and shrimp get water changes when they need it and I have time. Those are big tanks and I'm always shaking babies out of the Python. None of these approaches appears to demonstrably work better than the next and the shrimp colonies seem to take turns farming babies and then just holding steady. Except the OEBTs, which have never had a fry as far as I'm aware. Maybe it's something to do with the line? I know we got ours from different breeders. It's something I'd love to figure out.
I agree, going months without water changes doesn't seem like a smart move in my 5 gallon tank. I may start to stretch them out farther to 10% every 3 weeks and see how that works. That is one thing I haven't tried.

Also, maybe I should just stop feeding but 1 x weekly. Maybe the two times weekly is still too much.


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